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lexan or plexi back hatch

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Old May 14, 2006 | 02:03 PM
  #1  
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From: Summerville, SC
Car: 1984 Camaro Z28
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lexan or plexi back hatch

are there any aftermarket back hatch options? we were stripping my 86 sport coupe down and that back hatch must weigh a ton!

there must be some lighter weight options out there.
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Old May 14, 2006 | 02:11 PM
  #2  
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From: Hamilton
Car: 1990 IROCZ Camaro
Engine: 350 4bbl, 200cc Heads, 270hr Cam
Transmission: 700R4 w/ Trans-Go shift kit.
Axle/Gears: GM 10 bolt Posi
I have yet to see one, but I am well aware that they weigh 100+ pounds. But you have to think of this...even though you will cut 50 or so lbs out of the rear, what will that do to your traction? I believe that the amount of weight pressing on the back of the car is a great contribution to proper weight transfer.
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Old May 14, 2006 | 02:11 PM
  #3  
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From: Worcester, MA
Car: 86 T/A
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Yep: Lexan windows are about $400. The notchbacks save some weight I believe as well. However, that's over your rear wheels so good luck getting traction on the street.
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Old May 15, 2006 | 08:39 AM
  #4  
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From: Summerville, SC
Car: 1984 Camaro Z28
Engine: 2000 LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Moser 12 bolt w/4.11's
with a proper suspension setup, traction wont be a problem.


my friends with convertables have no problems with hooking.


and why would i need to dead hook on the street?

btw who sells these back hatches?
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Old May 15, 2006 | 08:58 AM
  #5  
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producthomespeedglass
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Old May 15, 2006 | 09:09 AM
  #6  
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From: Worcester, MA
Car: 86 T/A
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Originally Posted by LadyInRed

and why would i need to dead hook on the street?
Well let's see,

Track = clean ground and you can use slicks- weight isn't as big of a deal.

Street = sand, rain, street tires. I've driven without a rear window, even with an auto, 2.77 gears, and a 305 I was spinning the tires trying to accellerate out of every corner.

My rear window with a rubber wrap around spoiler probably weighed close to 130 I'd estimate, so there's alot of weight to be saved there if you do it right.
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Old May 15, 2006 | 09:21 AM
  #7  
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From: Summerville, SC
Car: 1984 Camaro Z28
Engine: 2000 LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Moser 12 bolt w/4.11's
Originally Posted by firebirdjosh
Well let's see,

Track = clean ground and you can use slicks- weight isn't as big of a deal.

Street = sand, rain, street tires. I've driven without a rear window, even with an auto, 2.77 gears, and a 305 I was spinning the tires trying to accellerate out of every corner.

My rear window with a rubber wrap around spoiler probably weighed close to 130 I'd estimate, so there's alot of weight to be saved there if you do it right.

if you have a properly set up suspension with decent tires, getting traction shouldnt be a problem. like any performance car traction is always an issue on street tires on the street.

but i see no need to "dead hook" on the street.

as i see it you have it backwards, the weight would matter more at the track then it would on the street.
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Old May 15, 2006 | 10:00 AM
  #8  
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From: Worcester, MA
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: HSR 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi
Originally Posted by LadyInRed
but i see no need to "dead hook" on the street.

as i see it you have it backwards, the weight would matter more at the track then it would on the street.
Spinning the tires out of a corner is far from a "dead hook". Did you not even read my post? The track is much better conditions so the weight isn't as necessary.
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Old May 15, 2006 | 11:16 AM
  #9  
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From: Summerville, SC
Car: 1984 Camaro Z28
Engine: 2000 LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Moser 12 bolt w/4.11's
how can you count rain and sand into this? no matter what youre driving they are going to be an issue, driving the way the car is now traction is hard to get in rain or sand, no matter how slow or fast i come out of a corner.

i dont see how they are relavent to this discussion.

your whole argument is how rain and sand will effect traction. well DUH it effects just about every cars traction.


i also dont see how you can compare the track to the street. the way a person drives at the track shouldnt be the way they drive on the street. and if you are driving your car like you are at the track then you deserve to wrap your car around a telephone pole.

driving around town with NORMAL road conditions i see no problem with removing 77lbs off the rear wheels. if your suspension is set up properly and you have compensated for the loss of weight there shouldnt be a problem.

at the track, traction is the name of the game, it can make or break. the ONLY problem i see with removing the weight from a traction stand point would be at the track, but even then with a properly set up suspension it shouldnt be a problem. for some its hard to get traction WITH the rear glass and full weight, but then again they should relook there suspension.

what about convertables? i havent seen many with abnormal traction problems that all the other fbodies dont already have.



Last edited by LadyInRed; May 15, 2006 at 11:20 AM.
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Old May 15, 2006 | 12:19 PM
  #10  
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All he was simply saying is that you will be fine with less weight in the rear for the track unlike the street where the weight helps.
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Old May 15, 2006 | 12:30 PM
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Car: 82z28
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while the rear end isnt the ideal place to lose weight on these cars, pounds is pounds.
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Old May 15, 2006 | 01:01 PM
  #12  
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Car: '89 Firebird Formula
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well considering overall the convertibles weigh more, with the need for additional bracing, or power tops, etc etc... i doubt it would be considered an issue ;0

if your car is anything as stiff as mine is, which is awesome as hell when your flying through the twisties, but trying to start without spinning your tires even on dry pavement can be a chore.... i doubt youd be trying to lose 100lbs in the rear

this is why people would rather take there batteries and throw it in the rear to transfer 50 lbs
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Old May 15, 2006 | 01:44 PM
  #13  
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From: Summerville, SC
Car: 1984 Camaro Z28
Engine: 2000 LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Moser 12 bolt w/4.11's
Originally Posted by dr1
well considering overall the convertibles weigh more, with the need for additional bracing, or power tops, etc etc... i doubt it would be considered an issue ;0

if your car is anything as stiff as mine is, which is awesome as hell when your flying through the twisties, but trying to start without spinning your tires even on dry pavement can be a chore.... i doubt youd be trying to lose 100lbs in the rear

this is why people would rather take there batteries and throw it in the rear to transfer 50 lbs

i dont know any with power tops. and that extra bracing isnt over the rear wheels.

infact i know one that is damn close to 3000# with driver. hooks just fine.

suspension. you guys dont seem to realize this.
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Old May 15, 2006 | 01:57 PM
  #14  
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wasnt refering to thirdgens specifically, didnt get the impression you were either when you mentioned convertibles ;0

you well 50lbs missing weight in the back is quickly replaced by 100+lbs overall weight

if you really think weight balance doesnt play a role anywhere, then good luck
and keep your glass window around so when the plastic crap deteriorates alot like those wonderful factory lexan ttops, you will have something decent to put back on and make the car handle better again ;0

Last edited by dr1; May 15, 2006 at 02:01 PM.
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Old May 15, 2006 | 02:14 PM
  #15  
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That 50 lbs is 50lbs you have to have. So if it has to stay over the rear wheels is the best place for it...If they didnt need a battery i can garuntee theyd leave it out.
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Old May 15, 2006 | 09:42 PM
  #16  
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yes, harwood makes the rear glass, 332 from summit.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1∂=HRD%2D12921&N=4294908216+4294908198+4294925008+4294925242+4294838944+115&autoview=sku
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Old May 15, 2006 | 09:55 PM
  #17  
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hey someone answered the question, how about that.

Thank you. I was curious also but it was looking like i wasnt gonna find an answer the way this argument was going.
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Old May 15, 2006 | 10:24 PM
  #18  
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well I would get a hood and the rear window. and setup the rest of the car as well. it wont matter so much if you remove weight from the front as well and use the correct shocks for transfer. after all once you bite the rest is lost in pushing dead weight
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