I used to work for Discount Tire and it really is a pain to mount certain size tires. Definetly isn't about time either. Some tires actually took 3guys to mount. The machine being used makes a big difference so if your worried about your wheels being damaged, let the wheel manufac. mount/un-mount them.

 

FedEx is notorious for that… when I worked at a local shop it wasn’t uncommon for us to get a pair of tires in that size range shipped and only have one when it got to the shop…

As far as mounting tires that size… it’s funny, I’ve got a set of Z06 rims for my 3rd gen, mounted them at a friend’s shop myself (well with some help) and the 265/40-17’s on the front were a bear, it took 3 of us to do them, but the 305/35-18’s for the back went on almost as easy as a set of “normal” size tires, I was able to do them myself. The last time I had a set of bigger wheels/tires mounted it was at Just Tires, and I offered the guy a hand figuring that I’d rather pay a guy and still help wrestle than end up with marked up rims, but he had a machine with 2 extra arms/rollers/pads that came down and pressed/positioned the sidewall like “the other 2 guys” would if you got stuck wrestling them on with 3 guys… it was a really trick setup.

As far as fixing the rims, good luck, I’m actually a bit surprised that they offered anything at all unless they think you’re paying for it. It doesn’t matter who’s fault it is, if you measured wrong, they cut wrong or a vendor shipped you the wrong ones… typically they’ll have a note in the box that they’re not returnable for any reason and you’re stuck with them if you mount them, so before you do anything to them make sure they’re the right size, offset… The problem is that _no matter_ what you do, mounting them will leave some sort of mark that they’ve been mounted, typically much worse than even what most wheel manufacturers sell as blemished wheels.

 

Believe it or not I have been working on the engine, however progress has been very slow! A quick note to the above post, I do agree that these size tires are a PITA to mount; however, when I had my first set mounted, the guy or should I say guys who mounted them did it flawlessly, not a scratch on the wheels! Anyway, I am hoping Intro sends back my wheels+tires in the next day or so, so I can get them next week.

Engine update: The timing chain has been a real pain to install without interference from the cam thrust plate bolts. The top two bolts were the problem areas and I ended up chamfering the holes in the thrust plate to accept flush mount allen-socket bolts, see pics. However, after I fixed this issue it was on to the LS2 timing chain cover (no pics yet) which did not clear the chain or oil pump (mounts over the crank snout). So, after about an hour or so of grinding and cutting on the inside of the timing chain cover and trial fitting, it final fit without interference. Prior to grinding on the cover I removed the cam sensor and then went to re-install it while the cover was mounted on the engine.........Let's take a Poll, who thinks the cam sensor fit without any problems??? Ok, let me answer that for you of course it didn't fit! What a PITA!!!!! The cam sensor would not seat all the way down because it was hitting the cam sprocket.......hmmmmmm I said, why is the cam sensor hitting the cam sprocket? I looked at the box for the timing chain and it said LS1 and NOT LS2. I was supposed to have received and LS2 timing chain! Oh well, not a big deal, just have to roll with the punches since after all I am an LS beginner! This is all part of the learning process. So, I ordered an LS2 timing chain from LME performance and should have it tomorrow. I already stripped everything apart...timing chain is off except for the crank gear, going to have to dig out my puller for that. I'll provide updates soon with the timing chain cover and cam sensor so you can see what I talking about.

 

pics of cam thrust plate and LS1 timing chain installed.

 

and another....I just realized with the new LS2 timing chain installed I might have interference with the other regular hex head bolts hold the cam thrust plate down. I am thinking this because the cam sprocket might be more recessed to allow for clearance of the cam sensor, this would put the inner face of the cam sprocket closer to the engine block/cam thrust plate. We will see!

 

nice!

 

damnit neil everytime i read this post u make me think of all the **** i could of done to my car before i got a ticket for 104 in a 65 im glad he caught me slowing down and reckless driving before i sold it

 

pics look amazing Neil, Let me know and we can have the same guys remount the wheels.....They just mounted racing tires on 17's for my S2000 and did a great job as always, charged me $100, but oh well.....

 

Here's an update of the engine work thus far..again, nothing is ever straight forward or easy! I was expecting this however.....in order to install the rear engine/crank cover, the 3/8" socket hex plug has to be shaved so that it is flush with the surface of the block to allow the rear cover to seal properly. I took approximately a 1/16" off and now the plug mounts flush and the cover does as well. I put a little blue loctite on it and tighten it down.
To do all this I had to pull the block off the stand to get at the rear/crank area, see pics.

 

Photos of the LS2 timing chain installed and the Melling oil pump. I had to make sure the spacing was 0.002" all the way around the oil pump drive gear to prevent excessive wear.

 

Last but certainly not least, the wheels with the new 90 degree valve stem installed. Intro threw out the old wheel hoops, installed new ones and mounted the 90 deg valves stems. They also repaired all gouges and scratches on the wheels...they are brand new again! I am very happy with their work and more importantly the tires are holding air.

 

one more pic...

 

looks magnificant

 

seems to be comming along good =D its hard for even us to be patient and wait to see the car and hear sound clips.. nevermind how hard it must be for you to wait!

 

Not bad Cletus!

However, I wonder how that's going to effect balancing..... Did they come balanced or just mounted?

 

so when yours is done your gona do my 86 right? lopking good man

 

The wheels were balanced as well.

LOL, when I am done with this I want to take a vacation.....sit and just do nothing for a while

 

sounds like a plan lol

 

Yeah right!!
Neil,you will never be done with this car.
I think I already said that on page??? 5,10,?

Looking very good man!!
btw, v/s on the wheels look good.

 

Cool! Have you mounted them yet?

You better have that thing running for the December gathering.....

I'll call you tomorrow, I have a new project in the works!

 

Ok, you got me there, however, at least the major work will be done and I can drive and enjoy the car then tinker with it here and there

By the way, I have decided to scrap getting the LS1 Roadrunner PCM, instead I will be getting a FAST system...actually on its way .

and yes, the wheels are on the car.....last weekend I got in the car and closed my eyes and pretended that it actually had a running engine! LOL

 

hey dont feel bad ive done that too

 

First off, Congratulations on such a GREAT project!!! I know that this has taken a lot of time, love, and dedication to come up with something like this.

Secondly, Thank you for also making me feel like my efforts to redo my 89 TA are completely inadequate!! LOL!! I have been working on that for six years now....and am just inching into my phase 2. You are a regular speed demon compared to my progress.


PDG

 

Yeah,that car will beg you for more More MOre MORE!
Is the FAST setup any easier?

 

From what I have heard the FAST system is easier to work with (but will require alot of time to establish a good tune) and is more capable of handling big HP, wideband O2 and other goodies.

Well, put the ARP studs in the block and slid on one of the heads. The gaskets and heads fit, which was a relief.....with the extra mounting holes for the heads I was worried they wouldn't line up, but we are good to go. Now I need to measure for correct pushrod length, make sure cam is degreed in correctly and check piston-valve clearance.

 

Mounting the Jesel rocker stand was not as easy, I had to take off a few thoudanths to clear a few areas on the head, not a big deal, but it would be nice to have some of this **** "plug & play", LOL.

 

Taking a break from the engine, I decided to mount speakers in the sail panel area. I have MB Quart 6.5" and tweeter combo (PVF-216) which I will use in the "back seat". Anyway, here are some pics. By the way, these won't be seen as you guys are aware....the sail panel will cover them.

 

I think it would have been cool to stuff 8 in. subs in the sail panel areas (one on each side)..... but you're not going to be able to hear the radio over the motor anyways......

 

I know youre probably getting old of hearing the same old "I just spent my whole day reading your post" line but I am honestly speechless...you dont know how great this build has made my day!...this is what I had in mind to do for my Z28 in maybe 10 yrs from now!!!.

what did you use for your hatch struts?

PS. this IS the HOTTEST Thirdgen in Houston.....that is until I build up MINE..but don't worry about me taking that title away from you too soon cuz Im not even out of high school yet..lol

 

so does that mean you have a batt. in the car and a radio?
I have an old eight track somewhere. Let me know if int.LOL!!

 

what heads did you decide to go with?

 

....

 

bitchin car.

 

did you just steal it from a walmart parking lot?
If so,yeah thats pretty f'ing hot!

 

I have All Pro cylinder heads. They are the LSW 12 degree Hurricane heads with the 6-bolt per cylinder provision. These heads have LS7 sized intake ports and will accept LS7 style intake manifolds. I plan to have a Hogan manifold fab'd (sheet metal).

Here's some pics of the heads on the block and also a pic of a Jesel rocker mounted........I need to figure out if the rocker stand needs to be shimmed to bring the roller tip to the valve stem center. I'll be calling Jesel tomorrow.

 

Outta curiosity...how much HP do you guys think this beast will make???

 

Neil, been payin attention to your build the whole time, but I've been lurking. All I can say is, amazing work my friend. Just make sure all of that power doesn't just sit in your garage all the time

I do have one question though, the deadening material surrounding the speakers - who makes it, and how much of the interior have you covered with it?

 

Hey Neil, this should get you motivated!!!

I drove mine today..... (click watch in high quality)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kfLWpAy0c1o

 

Any updates on the interior?

 

Yeah, no real updates on the interior other than I mounted the steering wheel and installed the rear sail panel speakers (MB Quarts), see pics above.

Still workin on the engine, torqued the heads down last night and planning on coupling the trans to the engine this weekend and if I am lucky, stab it in the car!

 

Any updates...I know you're busy.

Post when you get a chance. Later.

 

Well you have good exhaust flow. You almost knocked the camera over...lol

 

Yea, not too bad for some beater I "stole from walmart" !

 

awesome as always!

 

damn,can someone check on Neil?
almost a month now,hope he didn't attempt to stab it in alone and find himself wedged in the eng. comp. w/o a phone nearby!
He would be a carcass by now!

 

Too funny, sick.....but funny Yeah, I have been frustrated to say the least with the comedy of errors that have been thrown at me. Where do I start? So, as you know had the issue with the wheel valve stems and Intro wheels/I-forged corrected the error without any issues and were very cool about it! The next big issue was with the cylinder heads!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Yes, my AllPro megabuck, cylinder heads and the old saying "YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR" does not apply here. Some time has passed obviously, since this has come about but nevertheless I am still pissed, I had to contend with this issue, period! And the issue with the heads was the threads were tapped for a 3/8-16 standard thread and what GM calls for is a 8 mm stud. Now, just so that I am clear, these heads were designed for the LSX block which have the 6-bolt per cylinder design. I will post pics which will help illustrate this, but on the bottom of each cylinder an 8mm stud threads into the block and there is a through hole in the heads.....on the top of each cylinder the reverse applies......8mm studs thread into the heads and there is 9mm through hole in the block. I hope this makes sense. So, had those locations in the heads been drilled an tapped for 8 mm x 1.25mm studs there would be no issue and the engine/trans would have been in the car 3+ weeks ago. However, the guy at AllPro drilled and tapped the heads for 3/8-16 studs which are slightly larger than 8mm studs (he said, the reason he used these larger studs was because his other customers, big engine builders like Wheel 2 Wheel wanted them). Now, if you were to thread in the 8mm stud it will actually tighted up quite nicely and you think you are ready to go...which I did! I torqued down the main, 11mm studs in 3 steps to 105 ft/lb using the ARP tightening sequence. THEN, I got to the 8mm studs which thread into the heads....put the nuts on and started to snug them down with a box end wrench. In doing so, the nuts would not tighten up and I started noticing the studs were backing out of the heads! In other words the F$%@ing studs were pulling the threads out of the heads!!!!!!!!!! I tried tightening 2 nuts on those studs and the same thing occured and I realized something was clearly wrong (BTW, AllPro NEVER mentioned to me that larger size studs should be used)! So, I had to loosen all the nuts from the torqued down studs and there was the other issue......the nuts were pretty much locked on the studs. Instead of the nuts coming off, the nuts+studs came out of the block together! That was another red flag (and yes I used the Moly lubricant on the threads). After I removed the heads, I threaded the studs+nuts back in the block and held the stud with an allen key and used a box end wrench to loosen the nuts.....they came off but with alot of muscle and some of the nuts came off with metal shavings!!!! I mean at this point what do you do but laugh and cry! The studs weren't cheap and I had to buy another set....not about to risk improper or unequal torque on the studs/heads. I thought these were top of the line ARP studs (with their 2000 material)....apparently not? To be continued.........

 

.....ok, back to the cylinder head issue. After talking to AllPro several times about this issue their response was basically that as a "builder" YOU SHOULD HAVE KNOWN THAT THE THREADS WERE A DIFFERENT SIZE. I called B.S. on that and so he didn't want to accept responsibility for his mistake. I explained to him that had I known from the very beginning that he was planning to not use OE spec hardware, I would have had my machinist drill and prep the block for the larger studs as well (because the bottom studs would have to be changed out to larger ones as well). He finally said, yeah I should have told you but never really fully admitted his mistake. So, I then decided to helicoil the heads for the 8mm studs and it didn't work well becase the hole was too big for those helicoils (see pic). To shorten this rather long story......I sent the heads back to AllPro, they paid for next day air......they received the heads, drilled out the shitty helicoils I put in and they installed 8mm inserts which are much thicker.....oh and they broke a drill bit in one of the heads and left it in...so now I have to cut one of my studs by at least a 1/4", i'll post pics of this in the next few days (heads are still in the box.) I had to pay for shipping on the way back which I was not happy with...he should have happily covered this expense, but he didn't! I hope the heads work without flaw on the car because I don't want to have to deal with anymore issues!!! I'll post more pics when I get the heads out of the box so you can see exactly what I am talking about.

 

Here's another head on pic of one of the helicoils I installed. It looks good, but it wasn't grabbing the threads tight enough.

 

1 word hoss....bad-***...................................i redid my ride(notto your extent) but i know the pain and the first time you drive it ,i mean drive it comfortablly knowing all the bugs are out of it and you mash the gas coming out of the corner sideways all these past problems go poof.............distant memory...........i have one question,what do you do that you have this kind of coin to build this car? i mean you have mor einto this car than most 3rd gens make in 3 years...

 

Holy crap!!!!!Neil thats a bunch of crap.I am with you on this one,allpro should have handled everything free of charge and given you some kinda credit especially since you made everything very clear when you placed your order with them.
Also,the (YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR) bit is way out of the window on this one!I think I would be so pissed at this point that I could eat nails!