Body General body information and techniques for restoration, repairs, and modifications.

Replacing window motor....

Old Nov 29, 2006 | 03:10 PM
  #1  
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Car: 90 RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 5-speed
Replacing window motor....

Wasn't sure if this was the correct thread but i'll try. i've never had to replace a window motor before, are there any tricks to gettting it done or is it all self-explanitory?

Andrew
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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 03:35 PM
  #2  
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From: lakewood colorado
Car: 84-92 firebirds
Engine: 2.8/3.1
Transmission: auto
Read this thread

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...tall-easy.html

I personally used the "drill holes" method and found it to be much easier than removing the regulator procedure described in the Chilton's and Haynes repair manuals. If you decide to drill, get some longer screws than what will come with the motor.
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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 03:36 PM
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Yes there is a trick.........

Follow the instructions on this thread:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...or+replacement

made it easy for me, works great..........
----------
Wow 8492Bird, you beat me by a minute...

Last edited by Frank89IROC; Nov 29, 2006 at 03:40 PM. Reason: Added comment
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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 03:45 PM
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
and more importantly, avoid this job if at all possible;

check your switch
check the brushes (this alone solves the problem 99% of the time).
Then, and only then, actually replace the motor.
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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 04:25 PM
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Car: 90 RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 5-speed
my brother checked everything and he was convinced that it was the motor that was out. but what are the brushes?
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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 04:49 PM
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
the motor in itself is gears, those don't "wear out", since they aren't used that often.
It's the brushes that wear out, that's what makes the electrical contract between the motor and the wiring basically. It's a copper brush (set of 2), and it wears down to a nub, and makes crappy connectivity, moves slowly, until it dies.
It's a heck of a lot easier to swap in new brushes. Do a search on the forum to find out how, then go by the JY, use the 5 finger discount, and nab a pair of new(er) brushes. Rear windows on sedans and wagons work great, GM wasn't very ingenuitive, there's basically one power window style for every GM ever made. Practice on the JY cars, then once you've got a few sets of good ones, take 'em home and swap in your favorite set. If the switch wasn't the problem, i'd put money on it being the brushes.

Most people don't understand how a power window works, so they figure "windows don't go up. Grunt, window motor thingy must be broke. Grr, better get new window motor."
They use the shotgun effect.
Then go out and blow $120 to fix a $3 part. Your call, I have a better use for that $117.
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 06:58 PM
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If you replace the motor, I got mine from: www.rockauto.com for $37.00 which includes shipping, if you want one for a great price.
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