Ok now that i have learned about body prep and paint.

to actually accomplish the body prep. besides a bunch of different grades of sand paper.

waht kind of power tools do you guys use or recommend?

someone mentions a 7" makita grinder. i'm guessing depending wat i attach to it, it can be a grinder sander and a buffer if need be.


what other tools do you guys suggest? to remove rust spots, prep body for paint and sand and smooth body filler etc....

basically the tools used just before painting.

 

i buy myself some block sanders, mayb a 16" long one for feathering in the bondo to the rest of the car. guide coat is a must. i tend to stay away from grinders because they spin at like 12000RPM, thatll burn thru your piece of steel in less than a second. getting an orbital sander (either pneumatic or electric) allows you to control the amout of paint being removed and is even safe to the touch. also you need some degreaser (inquire at auto store) and some lint free rags so you clean off the dust/grease that you left on and the lint free rags wont fluff off like a paper towel would. some sand paper (80grit, 120, 220, 320).

 

eh i guess i just need to buy a book. my car needs lots of work. going to use some SEM to remove the paint on the bumper covers. the fenders will be brand new. my main concern is the doors and quarter panels. driver side has all the rust for the most part. not deep but enough to need filler once i'm done.

i guess my question is what is the best tool or method to sand out rust patches in the body?

then once cleaning the surface where rust used to be do i prime is first then fill it in with body filler or put in the filler on the bare metal?

 

ya what you can do is use the orbital sander and sand away the rust, then prime with primer and then start the body filler. but once your done removing the rust you should prep and prime asap. and you dont need to remove paint if its not damaged, espically on plastic parts like the bumbers. for the bumbers, just sand it with 320 grit, prime and your done(ready for base/clear). if the doors are really that far gone, it might be cheaper to go to a junkyard and buy another door for a couple hundred and paint it. because to buy tools and take all that time and effort and in the end have it rust in another year, its best to replace the door.

 

the driver side door has surface rust on the sides of it where it meets the fender and meets the quarter panel. I believe i can jsut lightly sand it down on those side corners. but i already purchased entire driver and passenger side doors in almost mint condition for 80 dollars for both. thsi guy was jsut tired of having the car sit in the drive way. i got good deals from his parts car. so i have doors incase i need them.

thanks for the bumper tip. You've been very helpful with all the threads i've posted. Any suggestions on whcih grit sand paper to prep the good old paint for primer?

 

nevermind i read ur old post from my painmt stripper question
320 wet/dry haha thanks again gramps

 

Small Grinder

320 grit sand paper

sanding blocks


The guy at the paint shop here strongly suggested doing everything by hand if possible since this step is the most crucial for a long lasting, reliable paint job. He also stated that if the car has a good factory primer, it should not be sanded to bare metal. Obviously, low spots will need to be repaired with bondo and you will need to take those spots down to metal. Try not to use anything rougher than 80 grit sand paper.

Try and pick up Hot Rod Magazine Fall 2006 issue titled Hot Rod Do-It-Yourself Series PAINT and BODY - The Complete Guide. It's a GREAT resource!!

 

i have a car craft magazine with the same do it yourself. thanks for the advise

 

Body filler is supposed to go on bare metal… over primer or paint will cause it to pop off eventually even though it does seem to work OK when you do it. Glaze is designed to go over “other stuff”