So after about a month of weekends and whatever I can slide in during the week, this is the old beast after a single coat of high build primer. I was talking to some guys at the supply store, and they suggested that spray bombing it with primer isn't the best way to go about it. Any suggestions on my next step? It definitely needs another coat of highbuild primer (imo) but I don't know if its a total was doing it by spray can.





Anyways help me out if you have any other tips on how I should proceed from here, its my first time trying paint and body... and its been a long trip.

 

Spray can stuff is really not the way to go about it. Really need a proper spray gun and good quality primer. I doubt you're going to get the build up you need with spray cans unless you put 5 coats on the car for a single blocking. I used PPG's K36 primer for blocking my car out, the pic is after putting 2 coats on for the first blocking. Depending on the area I was doing, I blocked the car out 2-4 times each time putting at least a couple coats of high build on with an HVLP gun. The last blocking didn't have one spot of metal showing and all the guide coat was gone.

 

if you just want a cheap paint job with waves then the rattlecans are fine, if you would like paint that will last for 10years or more then get the proper spray equipment. to do the same job with rattle cans it will cost you more in the long run.

 

fair enough - the issue is in my local, there aren't any spray booths for rent, and I doubt I can really afford to pony up for a new compressor & a descent water seperator & gun.

Any other suggestions on how I might be able to get it done? Like I said I'm new to the whole thing, and just trying to sort out my options.

 

I've done a couple body restorations, one happened to be on a *gasp* '69 Mustang. Anyways, I was using BASF products but the theory is the same. I started out spraying 2 coats of etch primer on the whole car because of it being bare metal, which also gives the main primer something to grab ahold of as well. Then I sprayed 3 coats of DP20 onto the car with 10 minute flash times due to the temp I was working in. After it sat overnight, I blocked the whole car out with 150 grit on numerous pads and blocks, then after a quick wipedown to clean the dust off of it, back into the booth for another stage of primer. All in all, I put 3 stages of primer on this car (3 coats for each stage),blockin inbetween them with 150-180 grit, then after the final stage of primer, it got the sheetmetal hung back onto it and wet sanded with 400 for paint. It was roughly $700 worth of primer on the car but it came out flawless. Worth it if you're wanting to be more of an up close show car, not an across the parking lot showcar...

 

If money is tight and you can only scrape together a few hundred dollars, I would suggest doing as everyone has said, minus the spray equipment. It can turn out decent, but obviously you won't get show car results. Results that are really nice are only attainable with $2-3,000+ paintjobs, or several weeks of work on the side with $1200+ in materials. Show quality is even more expensive and/or time consuming for the do it yourself 'r, also taking an ENOURMOUS amount of patience!

What can you do to make it look decent for $4-500? I would use about $100 worth of high build spray can primer and get some red spot putty(scratch filler) and 320 paper with a block(even a 2x4 cut to 6 inches long will do). Concentrate mostly on visual areas, center like body seam and higher, hood, mirrors, roof and rear deck. Block the car the best you can, fill small imperfections with the scratch filler and sand smooth, then prime.

Once you have exhausted your primer and scratch filler supply and the car is as good as you can take it using these techniques, strip off the easily removed items, bring it to an economy paint shop. Econ paint, Maaco, earl schibe, etc. For $200-400 they can offer paint jobs in enamel or even base coat clear coat with a 4 year warranty!


Winning shows, maybe not, but your car will look pretty decent until you can put together the money for a true show level paintjob down the road.

I bought a chevy van for $75, did all the work in my garage. I painted teh grill, mirrors, wheels and painted the main body at Maaco, sold it for $2700, with a total investment of $800.00!

Good luck,
Jim

 

I really wouldn't use a 2x4, the surface is too irregular and might be just as bad as sanding with your fingertips. Sanding blocks and boards are cheep. Also, they do have a roll on primer I've seen used on the Trucks! show plus the PPG dealer told me about it, says it's not bad. The thing about spray bombing the primer on is how durable is it going to be and will it be compatible with the finishes you're going to put on over it?

 

spray bomb primer blocks out like ****.......... I would try to get a local trade school or somthing to do the paint job....where i go we will fix a total rust bucket for around 900........so a decent paint job would cost like 600....and besides a lil orange peel or a wet sanded and buffed clear run....itll look real good..oh yeah, as far as blocking goes....use a paint mixing stick with 180 wrapped around it....works really well

 

I go to a trade school, I'd say thats the way to go. jay- that blocking trick sounds pretty cool, I wish I read this yesterday, I could of tried it today... guess Ill have to wait till next week.

 

I'd say use the paint stick only when you can't use a regular long board to get into places.

 

it just works well to me....its longer than most blocks you can buy plus its only like 50 cents........not to mention its the exact same length as a piece of sand paper

 

I had mine in lacquer primer for a while, then after it getting scratches and absorbing oil and hand prints, i pulled it outta the back yard after 9 months, block sanded it with 150, then hit the whole car with 320 like the paint dealer said to, then sprayed the whole car with 105$ a gallon epoxy primer, has a nice satin finish, cleans off like a paint job when its dirty and doesn't scratch very easily at all.






I used a gravity feed Matco paint gun set at 26 lbs, i run a 60 gallon compressor. Hope this might give you some ideas, i didn't even do anything but make sure i got all the small places so it would be even, it is not perfect by any means, this is my street bruiser, nothing more, it looks nice but i did not want show car.

 

wow man you know what that still looks really nice. Im getting ready to primer my car and you know i think ill have a little more faith in it now that it doesnt look like **** while i wait for the new paint lol

 

Just take your time, it turns out better with the more you put into it.