i have 1 rust hole at the bottom of my car and then the whole bottom of the car looks as if it could use some help it looks as though the people who owned it before me used to live on a dirt road and it is going to start rusting on me soon. it is all over everything and i was just wondering if there was something i could do to get rid of all the excess rust. like i said i only have 1 rust hole at the bottom of my car. i dont know if it is rust or excess mud buildup because the whole bottom of the car is like this orange color. but i need to know if there is anything i can do to get rid of it. i have tried pressure washing it but that did not seem to help do you guys think it would be a good idea to maybe hit with a sand blaster. please help me out if you know of any other ways then feel free to tell me i need help bad.

 

It's unusual for a Georgia car to rust, even on dirt roads. No salt in the red clay. Usually if they rust out, it's isolated to a small area. I have had good luck with a sand blaster, but keep in mind it removes a layer of metal also. If the bottom of the car is covered with red clay, the sand will probably bounce off of the dirt and not remove the rust under the dirt. You might try a rotary wire brush mounted on a hand held grinder, to remove the clay, and any light rust, then treat it with one of the anti rust chemicals, clean well, then paint with a rust inhibiting primer, and finish with a good paint.

 

clean it upand poke around everything with a screw driver to check you can never be to sure i thought my car had just one hole till i poked around and found holes big enough to fit a damn baseball through and $2000 later shes completly clean

 

will do guys thanks for the suggestions!!!!

 

Things could be worse I guess, I thought that I had a small rust hole in my driver side floorpan until I pulled up the carpet. Yeah, it's terrible, but hopefully I'll get the new pan I made welded in within the next couple days. Anyway, sandblasting has worked best for me on rusted metal, but you do need to make sure and prime/paint the metals surface right away.

 

only real way to fix rust is remove all signs and replace it with metal. I doubt it's worth doing, so just send the car down here to Mobile, and I'll be sure to dispose of it for you

 

man thats a big hole if you ever ran out of gas you could just stick your feet through and do what the flintstones did> jk

 

That looks like it rusted out from the inside. I would look for a water leak up top also. Is the frame rail intact? If you can get a replacement pan, it might work out best to cut it out and weld in a new one.

 

Yeah that's what I was guessing too because the passenger side pan was like new. The frame rail is fine, it just needs have all of the old floor pan chiseled off of it before I can put in a new one. Any ideas on where the leak would be that would cause this? It has t-tops, so would it be around there or around the door perhaps?

 

Thats what mine looks like that i am working on right now, but it is both sides and mine does not have the T-tops on it. Its a hard top.The best I can figure is these cars had design flaw in several places that held water and caused leaks to develope. I am going to make my floor pan sections to because the people that have replacement sections are stupid eat up on the prices for them and they will only truck freight them and it makes them cost 700.00 for both sides shipped. They dont sell just a replacement section you have to buy the whole right or left side from the front seam to the back seam under the rear seat. I am going to try and explain where i found that mine was leaking from on a day that it rained i push it out and sat in the car to find it. You are going to have to pull the Firewall heat shield out of the car i bet, because the seam that connects the floorpan and the firewall was where mine was leaking from. After I get all my rust fixed i am going to paint it with the KBS Rust Seal so it dont happen again hopefully. Have decided to clean and paint the complete underneath of car with it also. Here is the link to the KBS web site. http://www.kbs-coatings.com/index.aspx?AFID=30

Good Luck with your project.

 

I got both floor pans and a rear quarter panel for $670 shipped... So thats less than $570 for just the pans..

 

one place that was leaking pretty bad in mine was the seam where the front wheel well connected to the firewall the factory seam sealer had dried up from the engine heat or something and separated and leaked a nice bit

 

who did you get them from, the ones i found were from classic industries, they wanted $500 for both and $190 for shipping. I also checked with padocks and they were about the same, just $10 cheaper. Talked to both places on phone last month. So since I dont need complete floor pans a buddy that works in metal fab shop is going to make the pieces i need. We just need to cut out what i am going to replace so his guys have a pattern to go with. Is only going to cost the price of the metal they use.

 

They came from Classic Industries.. If you browse their catalogue, you will see that the pans are $250 each or you can get the pair for $400 plus shipping.

 

Yeah, it looks like a leak caused it. Floors that rot from wet shoes tend to be worse up by the pedals. This is more central in the pan, like it saturated the carpet and pooled up. It almost looks like it may have flowed from the kick panel side (upper left). Does the windshield look stock? Maybe its leaking.

 

I'll be doing an extensive check of everything today with the garden hose and hopefully figure something out. I'm pretty sure my windshield is stock, but I'll be checking around there to maybe see if that's the problem. I'll also get some pics up with the new floor pan I made installed sometime here soon.

 

Ok, here they are, sorry about the quality...

 

Very nice work. A floor pan doesn't have to be pretty, it can be a stop sign cut to fit, just get a sheet of steel and cut it to fit, bang it to shape, BFH's work very well. I've done alot of steel work, and it doesn't all ways look perfect, but once the finishing work is done it looks perfect. Doing the body steel is harder, but a floor is not something you'll see anyways. The hammer marks are covered by the carpet, and underneath by the undercoat. So you don't need to buy a replacement pan @ $400.00

 

I agree, good work on the patch - welding in new metal is the way to go.

However, what you need and what someone else needs may well be two different things dude...

 

Okay, sometimes you don't need all new steel, and sometimes you do.