So, when I was installing my SFC's, I had the luck of having my interior catch fire. I got sick of the smell and ripped the carpet and console out, and before I put in new carpet, does anyone have any recommendations of anything I should do?

I kinda want to Raammat, but the idea of laying stuff all over the interior bothers me. Like, I don't have any rust other than some surface rust on the bare metals/seat rails/etc, but wouldn't sound deadener make it harder to repair any in the future?

I was also debating POR-15'ing the interior, or at least sanding the bare metals and POR-15'ing them.

Or should I just order new carpet with the mass backing and call it factory good? Any ideas are appreciated.

 

The FIRST thing i do when i buy a used car is strip the interior down to the metal and clorox the chassis

I despise a car with a smell

Since you're already there you should put something over the rust even thou its only surface
Rattle can or POR 15, the choice is yours

Most aftermarket carpets have some sort of sound deadener on the underside
If you think its too thin you can peel the factory deadener off and put that in with the new carpet

 

my car as always had this weird funky smell. the smell of an old car. the old crappy car smell. i cant get rid of it. my carpet and everything is out as well and going to be replaces. the carpet has been out for about 2 weeks now. i even put baking soda in there to maybe help obsorb the smell. it helped abit but i can still smell it. what gives?! the headliner is out and going to be replaces. doorpannels are going to be replace. i even took the dash out and cleaned the heck out of it. my car still has that weird smell.
im fixing all the rust right now so im hoping it goes away then.
but wat is the best way to get rid of the smell?
you were talking about clorox? what on earth is that stuff i never heard of it?
is it a liquid and you have to spray it on and clean the metal or is it a spray can of paint?

aside from that.
im not to sure what you can do since your carpet it out.
you could all a 4 point roll bar. or just have the roll bar if you were ever thinking about added one. now would be a good time. thats what im planning. im sticking a 8 point or a 6 point. (making a street/drag car)

 

clorox = bleach

 

easy enough and very cheap
might go to the store in abit to pick me up some!
time to get rid of the old car smell

 

My car didn't smell. At all. One of the T-Tops even leaked a little. No smell.

And as for this "factory sound deadener" if it's not jute padding or carpet, it's not in my car. There were a couple of spots where the jute was glued down, but there is nothing not jute padding or carpet.

I was gonna rattle can all of the surface rust (seat rails, parts of the center console, etc. etc.) so it looks nice, and I was gonna patch the areas I'd scratched (putting the driver seat back in without any carpet scratched a little paint) but other than that I dunno if I'm gonna worry about it.

Dunno if I should Raammat it or spend the extra $160 on the mass backing on the carpet. Car wasn't very noisy with just carpet. *shrug*

 

The sound deadener is jute except it is doesn't really reduce noise it is just padding for the most part. I personally would put sound deadener down on the entire floor and rear quarters over the wheel wells and on as much of the firewall as possible even the inside of the doors if I could. make sure you arn't adhering it over rust and apply por-15 to the underside you shouldn't have any rust problems after that. But thats just me.

 

Found a place to order POR-15 with free shipping. $37/quart.

I'm gonna hit all of the weld burns in the car with the POR-15, let that dry, and then wait for my tax return to buy a roll of Raammat. Carpet will come. Sooner or later. Just like the ability for me to take passengers. :P

http://www.4wheelparts.com

 

Are the seats still in? Dash, center console? The smell could be trapped or absorbed into the seat fabric fairly easily as well as under the dash pad where there could be crap floating around from previous owners. Also inside the heater and a/c evaporator boxes may have some mold or crap and residue that give the car an odor. If it still smells with the interior out, try cleaning out the heater & a/c ducting and see if that helps.

 

I don't want to put in a roll bar. I don't feel that they are really all that functional without front tie ins. And I absolutely don't want a cage on a street car. Having to wear a helmet EVERY TIME I drive just doesn't sound like a lot of fun.

And you might say, "You don't have to wear a helmet." And I might respond, "Look at that nice steel bar that's right next to your head. Imagine being T-boned and letting your skull bounce off of that." That, and I like having T-Tops. Putting in a cage makes them functionally useless.

Stephen 87 Iroc has a cage he can still get the T-Tops out in, but it doesn't supply anywhere near the view range with the metal bar in there. Some people suggest putting in the removable door bars there, and see if it's legal. I'd rather not waste the money. Two sets of SFC's are good enough for me.

 

After restoring 2 mustangs with little to no rust on one, then total replacement of a floor plan i have suggestions you might want to consider.


When you take out all of the interior, the best things to do are:

1.Use alcohol/bleach to clean all of the bare metal to remove buildups and oils off of the metal.

2.Rub down floor pans with a rust oxidizer...you will be surprised at what happens.

3.After all has dried, go to autozone or wherever else and buy about 3 quarts of truck bed liner by duplicolor. It comes with a roller, and is fairly easy to use.

4.After all of this has dried , I HIGHLY RECOMMEND putting down a sound deadener such as RamMat, or preferably DynaMat. It does a great job at stopping sound as well as cutting down heat as well as other rattles!!!!! It makes the car feel like luxury. Place in all locations possible such as floors, doors, under the dash, roof if available, EVERYWHERE!

Replace with new carpet and there should be a different smell... make sure to steps 1-3 in a WELL ventilated area, or you will just have a fun night in your garage lying dead on the floor.

This takes about 2 days, but is well worth it.


approx cost

bleach, rust oxidizer, truck bedliner, dynamat, carpet

$300-$400

 

I know it's been discussed but I can't find the thread...
Ho wmuch does the Dynamat (or equal product) weigh.
The amount it takes for the entire interior.

Thanks.

 

I think for the whole car it weighs in at about 20-30 lbs.

Jared 07: I was thinking about POR-15'ing the whole car, as I've seen that truck bed liner, and am not terribly impressed. POR-15 looks like a much nicer coating.

 

FYI: I Dynamatted my doors(inside of outer skin, outside of inner skin) and my doors sound SOLID!. They close with a thud, not a clang. Suprising- to me, anyway- my A/C is THAT much colder with the added insulation. I can't wait to see what happens when I do the entire interior after paint and before recarpeting...

 

Por 15 and the truck bedliner are a somewhat similar product, the truck bedliner is more of a plastic rubber type of coating, which is much cheaper...so you just have to find what you like...

if you cover the majority of the car trunk, floorplan, doors, roof, dash, it will probably take about 10-16 of their standard sized pieces and depends on how you apply,

a good idea would be to buy bulk off of ebay, i would buy the cheaper FatMat found on ebay, then also purchase one of the dynamat extreme kits...lay down all of the fatmat, then in high noise areas (fenders, floorpans over exhaust, trunk over tank) lay down a top layer of the extreme, it sounds like overkill but when it is layered it works even better

 

Rammat is much cheaper than dynamat extreme, and offers the same quality. FatMat is an asphalt mat, and will MELT in an Arizona summer. I *have* to get a butyl mat. Raammat, dynamat extreme, second skin, etc. I might get second skin 'cause I can go pick that stuff up in Phoenix. Real close.

 

yeah, i have never used raam mat and being so cheap, i dont see how it could be that great.


Por-15 would probably be better, it stops rust i think???

 

POR-15 I'd put on the bare metal areas, let it dry, then put in Raammat or second skin. Raammat is lightyears ahead of regular dynamat, and only a bit behind dynamat extreme. At less than 1/5 of the cost of DE. Second skin is a little more expensive than raammat, and much better than dynamat extreme.

 

what is second skin?

 

http://www.secondskinaudio.com/

Their base sound deadener beats the pants off of Dynamat Extreme. Their better deadener.... Well. I can't imagine ever really needing it.

 

wow...nice products.