Alright guys...
Its been close to 6 years since I've shot any paint in colder weather... and its been 15 years since I took auto body, so here goes the question..
I'm about to paint up a camaro for a friend... his wife is paying me to paint it for him this coming week... for his birthday... he is out of town until next saturday.. which is the day she wants it revealed... the temperature here in east tn is not perfect for paint in a garage with no heat... but I managed to find a few heaters to go in there.. electric not fuel... I do remember that issue from class..
so the temperature in my concern will be around 53* or so... so with that being said..
I'm shooting the car with ful-thane urethane, and thinking about using a fast flash type thinner... the color is grey metallic but I don't think that will matter... so give me some advice... such as is that thinner the right selection and how long should I give the paint inbetween coats to flash....
thanks in advance..
83TransAmRECARO

 

My best advice is to talk to the guys at the autobody paint store where you're getting the materials. They'll have the right reducer and some good advice on how to spray it. Of course your going to want a faster thinner in cold temps and a longer flash time. But only you ... at the time of spraying can decide when it's ready for another coat.

And electric heaters with an open coil can still set it off! Good luck

 

i agree... the paint that you get should have limits for each reducer recomended by the manufacture. if you are getting paint localy just ask when you go to buy it, they should have all, slow-fast in stock. good luck

 

thanks to both for the advice... I got the paint store to set me up with a fast flash type thinner... said it should be sufficent...
thanks again...

 

thinner is for lacquer reducer is for enamel. i have no idea what urethanes are

 

Definitely go with the fast flash, but do a test panel before painting, and watch for blushing of the paint. If you're using a 1k base coat vs. 2k, ya know like ppg omni vs DBU with the DRR activated reducer then careful on the clear coat. With the cold weather when its taking longer for the clear to set up, you may have a chance of more drips; Drips on a 1k type base (Omni) I've found do some crazy things to the metallic in the paint underneath, similar to wet sanding a metallic base. Well that's just my Guess I should just say take your time with the colder air and cant wait to see the finished work

 

You got to watch though with the urethanes i dont know much about them because they are new but I've read that you will need a full respirator because its real toxic. Can't get away with the white mask like the lacquer days