question about door hinges
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From: Tacoma, WA
Car: 89 firebird
question about door hinges
on my car the bushings on these pins are broken, and the doors sag

so is the most common problem to the doors sagging the top hinge?
(with out a pin?)
which is this

so is the only thing that is different in these packages is the top hinge bolt things?

(so the bottom pin is the same in both?)
why is the bottom pin so cheap when the top is so expensive?

so is the most common problem to the doors sagging the top hinge?
(with out a pin?)
which is this

so is the only thing that is different in these packages is the top hinge bolt things?

(so the bottom pin is the same in both?)
why is the bottom pin so cheap when the top is so expensive?
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,087
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From: St. Petersburg, FL
Car: 88 Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: question about door hinges
dunno man, following your thread I have to do this to my car, Drinkmorebeer had to slam my door like 30 times because it sags, ive re hanged it a few times, so im sure its the pins
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From: Tacoma, WA
Car: 89 firebird
Re: question about door hinges
well just the pins are like $7.99 but the package is like $80, so there gots to be a big difference?
but on mine, the bushings on the pin are broken and gone, and it does not sag that much, so i think the $7.99 would fix it?
but on mine, the bushings on the pin are broken and gone, and it does not sag that much, so i think the $7.99 would fix it?
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From: Western Washington
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Re: question about door hinges
If the bushings are gone it's going to sag a lot, so much you couldn't close your door. And it looks like I can see the upper bushing still in there. If you have someone lift up and down on the door while you look at the hinges can you see which hinge has the play in it? If it's the upper then you need the more deluxe kit.
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From: Tacoma, WA
Car: 89 firebird
Re: question about door hinges
from my experience,my passenger door(that i just got to replace my ****ed up one) sagged so much, you basically had to lift it up or slam really really hard to close it
i put the pin in(the $7.99 one) and it is PERFECT now!
so ppl should replace the cheap one before buying the expensive one
i put the pin in(the $7.99 one) and it is PERFECT now!
so ppl should replace the cheap one before buying the expensive one
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From: New Brunswick, NJ
Car: 92 Camaro Z28
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T-5
Re: question about door hinges
from my experience,my passenger door(that i just got to replace my ****ed up one) sagged so much, you basically had to lift it up or slam really really hard to close it
i put the pin in(the $7.99 one) and it is PERFECT now!
so ppl should replace the cheap one before buying the expensive one

i put the pin in(the $7.99 one) and it is PERFECT now!
so ppl should replace the cheap one before buying the expensive one

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Thread Starter
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From: Tacoma, WA
Car: 89 firebird
Re: question about door hinges
hey, did you do it with the door on?
i took the door off cuz i had to add some washers to make it line up right, but i need to do it to my drivers side, but i do not wanna take that door off too!
i took the door off cuz i had to add some washers to make it line up right, but i need to do it to my drivers side, but i do not wanna take that door off too!
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Re: question about door hinges
If you don't have a door hanger tool, then you'll need to hold the door inplace by other means while doing the repair. A few common methods using basic garage tools. Method one: put a floor jack under the door with a towlel on the cup of the jack. Put a ladder over the door and stuff the space between the ladder and upper door with towels. Method two: use a cherry-picker or engine hoist and with a strap slung around the door to lift it and hold it in place. Method three would be to have someone hold the door steady while the door is supported by the floor jack, but it requires a second person who won't be bored while you do the following.
Using a door spring tool, remove the door detent spring. Drive out the lower pin. If you aren't replacing the uppers you'll need to un-bolt the upper hinges (accessed behind the kick panel). If you are replacing the upper door hinge pins and bushings at the same time as the lower pin and bushings you don't have to un-bolt the upper hinge from the body. retract the door just enough to clear the hinges and drive out the old lower bushings. Push in the new ones, then slide the door back in place and loosely bolt the hinges back in again. Install the new pin. Tighten the upper hinge bolts making sure the alignment is good. Install the door detent spring with the tool. Remove the door hanging method you used.
In answer to the first question, you need to evaluate which hinge pins are worn before you buy either the upper kit (which includes the lower pin & bushings) or just the lower. To do this have someone lift the bottom of the opened door while you closely inspect the upper and lower hinge pins for movement using a flashlight. You'll be wasting time and money if you just do the lower without first inspecting the upper to see if it needs to be replaced too. I know everone wants to save money by trying the lower kit, but time IS money. You only want to do the job once.
Lon Salgren
Using a door spring tool, remove the door detent spring. Drive out the lower pin. If you aren't replacing the uppers you'll need to un-bolt the upper hinges (accessed behind the kick panel). If you are replacing the upper door hinge pins and bushings at the same time as the lower pin and bushings you don't have to un-bolt the upper hinge from the body. retract the door just enough to clear the hinges and drive out the old lower bushings. Push in the new ones, then slide the door back in place and loosely bolt the hinges back in again. Install the new pin. Tighten the upper hinge bolts making sure the alignment is good. Install the door detent spring with the tool. Remove the door hanging method you used.
In answer to the first question, you need to evaluate which hinge pins are worn before you buy either the upper kit (which includes the lower pin & bushings) or just the lower. To do this have someone lift the bottom of the opened door while you closely inspect the upper and lower hinge pins for movement using a flashlight. You'll be wasting time and money if you just do the lower without first inspecting the upper to see if it needs to be replaced too. I know everone wants to save money by trying the lower kit, but time IS money. You only want to do the job once.
Lon Salgren
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Re: question about door hinges
I do the service for local customers. I wouldn't have a clue what a body shop would charge. You'll have to do the legwork on your end. I can tell you there is a lot less labor using the kit I sell than GM's method.
Lon
Lon
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From: New Brunswick, NJ
Car: 92 Camaro Z28
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T-5
Re: question about door hinges
I took the door off and put it back on myself with the help of a car lift to hold the door up to the right height.
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