On my 86, the rubber drip rails on the T-top that overlaps the door glasses are in need of replacment. These parts are warped, and tend to fold under the door glass when the doors are closed. The rear corner of the drip rail on the passenger side is pulled loose from the T-top, and makes for a cosmetic issue. The T-top seals that seal between the T-top and the glass are still like new. Driving or sitting in the rain, the car has no leaks, so I don't want to create one. 1) Can the outer drip rails be changed without disturbing the T-top to door glass seals? 2) If it is near impossible to change out the drip rails without damaging the seals, who is the best source to purchase the parts from? Several companies list complete T-top kits, however my car does not need all of the seals replaced. Hawk's lists GM drip rails as separate parts, but the driver's side rails are no longer available. Thanks,Charles

 

Bump, Anybody had experience with this repair? Best place to buy the replacement outer seals? Thanks, Charles

 

I replaced them awhile ago. I got them from the dealer and it only took me an hour or so for both T-tops. I just pulled the handle, and the plastic trim off. It really wasn't bad. Looks like $35 from Gmpartsdirect.

 

HI Charles,

Here's a link to out Pontiac Trans Am Weatherstrip section. If you have any questions I'd be happy to answer them for you.

 

To IROC212, and 1ATony, thanks for the information. I will look at the tutorial tomorrow, as our work computers block all links. They are afraid that we will look at dirty pictures or something else deemed inappropriate on the work computers...My main question is if it will be necessary to change the inner seals and outer seals, at the same time, or can the inner seals be removed to allow installation of the outer seal/drip rail and then reinstalled without damaging the inner seals. If they slip into the channel, they should come out easy, and fit back without any problems, but if they were installed with sealer, they will probably come out in pieces. Charles

 

Hey, I have replaced those on mine before- on both the stock lexan ones from my 92 and the glass ones from an 86 I bought- the inner glass seals had to be removed on both of them first- on the newer ones the trim inside did not have to be removed- just the seal so that you can access the mounting screws for the outer drip seals- on the older ones I had to remove the plastic trim panel as well. Just be careful when you remove the inner seal- if you take your time it shouldn't get damaged- not sure where you can get a driver side piece from so you may need a complete kit from hawks but I'm not sure if you want to spend that much. The replacement pieces are harder than the old rubber ones were- when I put them on mine I removed a small amount of material from the outermost edge so that the door glass wouldn't catch anymore (use a sanding block and only remove what is necessary to keep the glass from catching) hope this helps

 

Thanks a lot! You have some good infomation and great suggestions to share. I will find the parts and tackle the job in the next few weeks.

 

i got a set of hard rubber/plastic ones from ecklers a few years ago . vast improvement over factory soft rubber . good luck .

 

any updates ?

 

I have not done anything with it yet. Lucky for me the car is stored inside out of the weather.

 

I've seen them available from the SoftSeal folks, but I think they are about $90 a set, and I can't comment on the quality as I haven't purchased from them. But I'm in the same boat, as you, mine are rough and the door window catches on them.

I've also read here on TGO where someone just took them out and never had any leakage issues. Might want to see if you can find that thread, and PM that poster to see if he's still not having any issues. It might be an option. You could just cut them back maybe with a razor and them you wouldn't have to disturb the inner seal.

 

I have the same exact problem with my 86. I have the t-top correction book and it states how to fix these leaks. Unfortunately, I don't quite understand GMs technical jargon yet.

 

 

thanks for this