How to Fix Existing Hood Inserts
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,375
Likes: 6
From: Wyoming
Car: 1995 Formula
Engine: LT1 350
Transmission: Built 4L60e
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, Eaton posi, 3.73's
How to Fix Existing Hood Inserts
Here is how I fixed my hood inserts, so they don't flop around or fly off in the wind. Before you read what I did, you can see a few pics of my little project. I got everything at Autozone, for less than 15 bucks.


1. I bought two of those license plate bolt kits at Autozone that have the plastic bolts and nuts in them. There are 8 bolts and 8 nuts in each kit...perfect. Four bolts are black, and four are white. The black bolts require a bit more grinding (see 3 below) down than the white ones because their heads are shaped differently, for some reason.
2. I bought some "plastic weld" epoxy.
3. I carefully broke off the broken/shortened/worthless nipples off my inserts with pliers, and this left nearly perfect depth holes to install the plastic bolts from the license plate fastener kits. I had to grind down some material off the heads of the plastic bolts, with my dremel tool, so as to make them more flat and make them seat nicely down into the holes on the inserts.
NOTE: You may also want to do a little grinding with a dremel, to clean up some of the plastic that's left in the holes on the inserts, after breaking off the useless, broken old nipples.
4. I applied the epoxy to the holes of the inserts, one at a time, and stuck the plastic bolts into the holes, making sure they were straight, like the factory nipples were. The epoxy cured quite fast and was strong.
NOTE: Don't goop a bunch of epoxy all around the holes/heads of the bolts, as this can prevent the inserts from lying flush against the metal of your hood. The small amount of epoxy I used just to stick the bolts into the holes held them in very strong.
5. I let the inserts set for 10 minutes, and they were strong enough to bolt back onto the hood of my car. Worked like a charm.
6. I recommend sanding and cleaning the inserts and spraying them with flat black Duplicolor, unless you like gloss black. They look as good as new, once this is done. New inserts cost around $150 or more.


1. I bought two of those license plate bolt kits at Autozone that have the plastic bolts and nuts in them. There are 8 bolts and 8 nuts in each kit...perfect. Four bolts are black, and four are white. The black bolts require a bit more grinding (see 3 below) down than the white ones because their heads are shaped differently, for some reason.
2. I bought some "plastic weld" epoxy.
3. I carefully broke off the broken/shortened/worthless nipples off my inserts with pliers, and this left nearly perfect depth holes to install the plastic bolts from the license plate fastener kits. I had to grind down some material off the heads of the plastic bolts, with my dremel tool, so as to make them more flat and make them seat nicely down into the holes on the inserts.
NOTE: You may also want to do a little grinding with a dremel, to clean up some of the plastic that's left in the holes on the inserts, after breaking off the useless, broken old nipples.
4. I applied the epoxy to the holes of the inserts, one at a time, and stuck the plastic bolts into the holes, making sure they were straight, like the factory nipples were. The epoxy cured quite fast and was strong.
NOTE: Don't goop a bunch of epoxy all around the holes/heads of the bolts, as this can prevent the inserts from lying flush against the metal of your hood. The small amount of epoxy I used just to stick the bolts into the holes held them in very strong.
5. I let the inserts set for 10 minutes, and they were strong enough to bolt back onto the hood of my car. Worked like a charm.
6. I recommend sanding and cleaning the inserts and spraying them with flat black Duplicolor, unless you like gloss black. They look as good as new, once this is done. New inserts cost around $150 or more.
Last edited by New2Chevy; Oct 4, 2009 at 09:14 AM.
Supreme Member

Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,151
Likes: 0
From: Osceola Indiana
Car: 92 RS(sold) 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: ones that turn
Re: How to Fix Existing Hood Inserts
im deffinently interested to see some pics Ive been trying to figure out a way to fix mine for awhile.....I would just buy new ones but at $135 bucks a piece last time I checked I would much rather fix mine
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,375
Likes: 6
From: Wyoming
Car: 1995 Formula
Engine: LT1 350
Transmission: Built 4L60e
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, Eaton posi, 3.73's
Re: How to Fix Existing Hood Inserts
It took half an hour to do one insert. I've done it before, though, on my other Camaro, so it was easy for me. The first time I did it took about an hour. The engine got hot today while driving, and the bolts are still in the inserts perfectly and strongly.
Last edited by New2Chevy; Oct 4, 2009 at 09:16 AM.
Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
From: South Gate, Ca
Car: '85 Camaro Z28, '90 300zx
Engine: 350 4 bolt main TPI
Transmission: 700 r4 automatic
Axle/Gears: ? not there yet, i know its stock
Re: How to Fix Existing Hood Inserts
I believe I found another project thanks man.
Supreme Member

Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,151
Likes: 0
From: Osceola Indiana
Car: 92 RS(sold) 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: ones that turn
Re: How to Fix Existing Hood Inserts
sweet thanks for all the pics, and instructions I know what im doing this weekend
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,375
Likes: 6
From: Wyoming
Car: 1995 Formula
Engine: LT1 350
Transmission: Built 4L60e
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, Eaton posi, 3.73's
Re: How to Fix Existing Hood Inserts
Cool. Yeah, the inserts are still holding strong. Good luck, and let me know how it goes.
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