I should be goin to a friends house toorrow to see how his is set up and hopefully it will be enough

 

After math of insulation fire in the interior, it was completely cloudy of smoke


Interior was clean, fire extingusher crap went everywhere and only in the car

 

Good luck getting it all out of the dash. That crap gets in and on everything.

 

I know, its a huge F*** my life moment, Im going to use the air gun comboed with a vacuum to get most of it out. But it will be there for years to come, no big deal really

 

I dont need to replace my floor but i am having a hard time finding the drains on the floor and back. Do you or anyone know were i could buy some?

 

What do you think of the rust bullet paint? Is it good

 

Rust bullet is the one advertised on here, I havent heard of tem before and I havnt heard of the reputatiion. I did a search and people said that everyone always heard good things from people who used POr-15. if you use it as directed. Price wise I checked and their both the same

 

Ill use the rust bullet some time soon withing the NeXT two months. Ill post some pics as soon as i start sanding. Your project looks good but it sucks for the fire.

 

I know, I really hope none of the wiring was touched, I am going to cleans as much as I can and maybe put the dash out again if I feel the need too

 

You may need to take it out just to clean the whole inside

 

Did you floor and back have drains. I am looking for them but i cant find them any where.

 

yep, front and back of each sides of the floor pans had drain plugs, they are under the insulation.

Well I ended up taking it apart and found that the fire had melted the side window vent case and it melted it onto the wires, some of the wires had their casings melted off, I really hope I can repair them and avoid buying a new harness and dash, ill put pics up

 

damage pics


heat hit the gauges

 

From What the Pics Show me (As well as 30 years of shop experience), You'd be FAR better off just getting a new Harness, and Dash Assy. You can fix it, but when copper wires are heated that hot, The Electrical Gremlins move in............

 

What happened exactly? How did the fire start in the first place? I'm kind of lost. Either way, it sucks and I hope you don't have to do too much extra to fix everything.

 

agreed...... that sucks man... on the flip side i was looking for a gauge bezel on ebay and saw a few dashes that were pretty cheap.... no idea what condition they were in tho, or check with thirdgenranch they are in your area i think

 

This looks like a 30 minute fire. How long did it take you to put this out

 

I was welding on the outside driver wheel well, I saw a flame and looked up there was a flame in the window, I ran and got the door open and fire extingusher, it took maybe 10 minutes at most. So need less to say Im going to ned a new dash harness and most likey dash, Like I really needed this

 

If you nee a new dash pad as well, I have one in mint condition for sale. There isn't a crack anywhere, and it doesn't look faded.

 

Look at it this Way, At least a little money on the car,.........Not the Shop!

 

Tru, no sorry bud I have a mint condition dash pad that I had in the car before I started the project. I also have another one for my 89 once its gets fixed up also

 

Good work on the project. And, I have a Full dashboard minus the gauges from an 83 T/A if your interested. It has an Uncut wiring harness still with it as well.

Keep up the good work.

 

Yes, but is it the same setup as my car, 1986 TA, 305 Tpi auto, cruise control, windsheild wiper and mist, defrost, fog, trunk release connectors

I think thats all I need in the wiring part

 

Ok everyone Im having a difficult time deciding what will be better for headers. the hedmen LTs or just shortys, if I went the Lt i dnt know how much ground clearance I would have, but with the shortys Id atleast use the stock route

Any ideas, Im going to be getting them soon

 

More work
I cleaned the drive shaft then put por 15 on it since it had pitting all over


Next I did oil pressure fittings

All done...for now

I cant get the rear out right now, Im going to wait till i get the replacement quarter panels so I can do the back end all together

Its time for, what the F is this and where does it go.
Ok I saw this long connector and thought it might go to the trans but I already had one on the trans

I know the 4 prong went to the auto trans, is that right?


and what about this? is it the reverse lock out or tail lights?? wheres the connector for it?

 

The bottom pic looks to be the speedo cable hookup...unless i am mistaken. bummer on the fire, looks like it burned for a few.

 

that would be for the speedo cable, there is no reverse lockout on a t5

the one you have connected already.... that is the back up light switch.....not sure what you connected to it tho....... you need to find a plug and wire it to the correct wires from the old auto shifter. if memory serves me i believe on my car the backup light wires are purple or black and green and not very heavy like 16-18ga, clutch safety switch wires are purple and yellow and are somewhat heavy wires probably 12ga or so

and yes the 4 prong went to the auto trans for torque convertor lockup.. you dont need it anymore

 

Regarding the CSS, there were no connectors in the dash wiring for it (pics are great). Also that connector I have in the thats in the back up light switch is the harness from the auto, I guess I can cut it out and use it for the reverse lights that go to the auto harness

 

if there was a 2 wire connector plugged in to the auto trans it was for vehicle speed sensor (although the vss connectors i have seen on gm cars were somewhat smaller), which means your speed is electronically driven although i though 86 was still mechanical via a cable..... depending on what you plan to do for guages you'll want to at least remember where those wires are.

you could convert the t5 speedo output to be electric but with no computer im not sure it would work.

as for the clutch safety switch connector, i found mine behind/above the drivers side kick panel, it may have been taped up,

when i did my swap i read that some folks found them and some didnt, it may depend on the year, a pic really wouldnt show much, its just a 2 wire female spade connector with some sort of clip to keep it on, on the end of a yellow/purple pair of wires.

if you dont find it, run them over from the auto shifters connector, it used that circuit also, it kept you from starting the engine unless in nuetral or park.


i feel you pain on the electrical stuff, i'll be tearing my dash apart this spring, to put in a set of speedhut gauges..... im not really looking forward to it. but im driving off the tach since i got my t56 in last fall, and it was pretty annoying trying to remember rpms, for different gears and mph....was almost like work to drive the thing and thats no fun

 

Ya Thats probaby what Im going to have to do drive with a tach

EDIT:
I found a person with an idea but will it work

"You need to remove the tailshaft housing (4 bolts) and remove mechanical gear from output shaft. I believe its held on with a clip. Next remove tail housing from your old trans. Use a gear puller to remove speedo gear off old shaft. Put it on replacement trans output shaft and put the old tailshaft housing ( the one that has the vss in it)
on your new trans. Plug in connector and speedo will work."

 

Go with the shortys

 

shortys are bolt on, lts are not there are clearance issues with hedman lt's and the slave cylinder.... i beleive the dyno don headers and the hookers will fit around it but the price difference is massive and unless you are making massive power its not worthwhile.. and that doesnt even take in to consideration reduced ground clearance

im using the hedman shortys, 68460 or 68470 whichever is the basic shorty with their y pipe hooked to my 3 in catback ..... the only thing i dont like is the y pipe is 2x 2.5in in to single 2.5in, you can chop it on the merge point and make it 3 inch from there out, if you search the exhaust board another fellow did just that,

i personally want longtubes simply for the sound of the headers ticking and creaking, its less noticeable on shortys in my experience and i love that sound but i cant justify the clearance problems and cost of true duals or a fancy y pipe and trans crossmember to get clearance on the earth

 

Agreed, if Im dropping it an inch later I dnt need any more clearance issues, so when my check comes in ill be getting the hedman shortys 68460, Im going to be dooing a tru dual setup like a member on here, it goes the way the stock exhaust would

 

Also, is the speedo gear the plastic gear inside the shaft, so i can just swap that part and it would make the speedo work??

 

you would need to pull the tail housing and swap the plastic gear for the reluctor ring(i think thats its name) that a vss uses, and then of course replace the piece you point out in the pic above with a vss... i do not know if the pieces from the 700r4 would be bolt on or not.

another option MAY be the adapter that speedhut and autometer sell, it attaches to a mechanical speedo drive and produces an electronic signal... i have no idea if it will output correctly for a factory electric speedo or not, you could use it along with an sgi 5 box to get the right signal but that box is about $300 and the speedo adapter is around $50-60 ....

if you intend to use stock guage cluster those are your options that i know of short of getting an earlier speedo that is mechanical drive and installing the speedo drive cable.

no if you intend to go with aftermarket guages across the board including speedo, you would simply need the speedo to be electronic (most autometers are, all speedhuts are) and the mechanical to electronic adapter like this one

http://www.speedhut.com/product_deta...NUMBER-722.htm

that is what i was going to use if i got to my guages while i still had the t5

 

Im going to try the swap first, if it doesnt work Ill get that adapter

geez so much to do for a complete overhaul and to think im doing it myself

 

Well I took the speed control out of the auto trans only to find out the whole setup was too bid, i thought the connector would come off also but it didnt

 

Sorry for the long respond, I have been getting ready for school which is tomorrow, so when I get some more cash flow in I'll get the fp regulator and headers to get this stuff done for spring break. and I've decided that when i get the replacement quarter panels I'm either going to have a local body shop put them on and ready for paint, or a local college that has an autobody class

 

Ok just got back from picking up the dash from Third Gen Ranch, Its in awesome condition, so now I can get going with finishing the car. I still have to clean up the remains of the fire extingusher crap around the whole interior. In a few weeks Ill be picking up the new carpet from a local distributor and ordering the Fp regulator. Somewhere around that time Ill be dropping it of at a body shop so they can put the quarter panels on and align them the right way.

Other than that I put por 15 on the hood tray and put it on the caralso the headlight assemblys minus their covers because Im going to get them ready for paint, The front bumper is almost ready for paint just need to get the area where the lisence plate was fixed up and close up the screw holes. Still alot of little things to do and things to buy. I got lucky and my friend has the headers I was going to get...sweet

50 days and counting, its going to be verrrrry close to getting done by spring break

 

Wow you are moving your project pretty fast. I wish i had the time and money to finish within the same dead line.

 

Hahaha, im broke as hell, family helps out alot with that, as for time, im only going to have a 7 hr window after i get home from school. In that time, eat do hw then go to work, Im doing it alone but Ill get it done, I will go crazy if I cant finish it by the deadline and I really want to drive it again

 

looking good except for the fire. ive got lots of time to work on mine just no tools or money lol.

 

I feel what you aré saying everytime i see a camaro on the street i feel bad just thinking my rust bucket still has a long way to go.

 

Ya my buddy has a 91 RS with a carb swap heads and a huge cam back by a t5, every time i see it im like...damn, i want mine done

tools are a great thing to have, im using all my dads tools that hes gotten over the years, I think it all adds up to a $10k kit you can buy from craftsman or 1 of the others, I dont have the same thing over and over tho, I have all the odd kinds of things youd find in a shop. Its really cool actually, finally using tools that havent been opened yet

 

The problem with my tools is that my brother loose them all the time

 

Got the headers, Im putting prep spray on them now and should be able to get the flame proof coating on them tonight

EDIT: got the headers painted, and got 1 in, the drivers side was being a female dog, i tried putting it in both ways and it kept getting held up. Idk what to do but I will work on it tomorrow

 

Sweet man, glad things aré coming together, looks really good

 

Ok finally, this was ridiculous, pass side slide right in, driver side as usual was a PITA big time had to beat the snot out of the collector and the top tubes to clear the slave, and cut away the slave casing

if theres a next time for this im not going with hedmans, but i cant complain cause i got a nice deal

pics:

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Resized to 50% (was 800 x 600) - Click image to enlarge


Resized to 50% (was 800 x 600) - Click image to enlarge

Next to do is finish the spots on the floor pan, then I can lay the carpet down, and start putting the dash in(for a second time "gun to head"), the only thing to get for it to get started now is the fuel pressure regulator, that will come with the next check a week from friday. Then the usual, plugs, wires, coolant, and oil

Im soo close now

 

I heard you mention headmans headers, is there a direct fit for those to the camaro

 

based on the picture you could have done a lot more cutting and way less pounding...