The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
#51
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Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
Do they have anything that resembles the GM factory white? May be an option on my car if i could find a garage and air compressor
#52
Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
I have been reading this with great interest and have to say that you have inspired me, and I have convinced my dad to let me try it on my '86 base Firebird. It has factory paint that has faded pretty badly. When I am back from school for summer, this is probably going to be the first thing I do.
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Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
Wow, props dude, good job. That is a very nice looking Trans Am. Always had a soft spot for the red Trans Ams for some reason...
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Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
One day I'm going to have to bug you and see if you can give me pointers for this, going to start doing rough body work tomorrow and this thing NEEDS a paint job badly lol
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Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
That looks great. I looked the paint up at the local tractor supply and they have it in gloss black so I think I am going to do a hood I have to replace the pinged one I have now.
How did you mix it up?
How did you mix it up?
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Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
Just found this thread, followed your other one closely, this paint job looks excellent, I'm going to be getting a compressor soon myself and I'll be practicing some spray painting I would like to spray my TA also, too expensive to get even a cheap paint job over here. rather have a few imperfections then spending almost 8k on a paint job.
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Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
What kind of routine maintenance do you need to do in order to keep the shine of your paint? If I am assuming correctly adding a clear coat on top of this paint would cut down on regular waxing and paint maintenance.
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Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
looks great, I'll have to try this since my budget is always next to nothing. You said that it dries rock hard, and I read the post about not needing a flex agent because it was painted on the car. What I'm wondering though is if its so hard wouldnt that cause problems with any flexing of the bumpers, like winter and summer especially when it expands and contracts slighty, do you think that may cause any issues? I live in michigan so I have to think these factors into everything.
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Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
You SHOULD always use a flex agent in your paint, regardless of if it is already installed or not, because your right about heat/cold/etc. causing flex.
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Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
For an update:
I haven't waxed the car since the middle of November. It's never been in a garage and has been rained, sleeted, and snowed on pretty regular for for the past few months. It gets driven about once a month now when we have a 60* sunny day. Other than that it sits in the elements. I hose it off and let it drip dry before I drive it to my local club meetings. The shine is still EXCELLENT with NO maintenance for months. As far as the cold tolerance, it's been in the single digits here several times at night. The paint is holding up great. If I get a chance tomorrow I'll snap some "as it sits" pics.
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Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
I stopped by the local Tractor Supply and bought a gallon of black gloss. I am going to do a hood I lucked up on as soon as it warms up. I figured it was worth giving a shot. Thanks for posting your experience and nice job.
#65
Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
I don't suppose they have that paint in any metellic colors do they? Are you limited to using solid colors with this kind of paint? Cool paint job and info!
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Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
As promised, here are the "as it sits" pics. I didn't get a chance to get them yesterday since I took the family to the UT vs. Nebraska basketball game. These were taken about 2 hours ago. The car is FILTHY. Every time it rains it splashes sand up on the car. Like I said in my earlier post, there has been NO maintenance on the paint since November. All I have done is spray it off with the water hose.
My dirty car:
My dirty car:
Last edited by FYRCHKN; 02-14-2010 at 02:49 PM.
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Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
As promised, here are the "as it sits" pics. I didn't get a chance to get them yesterday since I took the family to the UT vs. Nebraska basketball game. These were taken about 2 hours ago. The car is FILTHY. Every time it rains it splashes sand up on the car. Like I said in my earlier post, there has been NO maintenance on the paint since November. All I have done is spray it off with the water hose.
My dirty car:
My dirty car:
I did the best I could with mine, but my car isn't straight. The rocker is slightly pushed up thanks to an off-roading incident before I owned the car. Because of this the door's can't be moved backwards to close the gap between the 1/4 panel and the door skin. Which throws off the fenders, hood, headlight doors...
It can be fixed, but it required alot more time than i had when I was doing this work. I may take a weekend or two this summer to realign it all so the gaps are right.
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Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
Yes, the front tires are Rikens. So far I love them. They handle great and they are the ONLY tires I've had on the front of the car that don't constantly try to hydroplane on every little drop of water on the road.
#70
Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
I had them perfect until I pulled the nose off to do the motor swap. I just haven't gotten around to lining them back up yet. I'll spend the couple hours or so to do it when it warms up.
Yes, the front tires are Rikens. So far I love them. They handle great and they are the ONLY tires I've had on the front of the car that don't constantly try to hydroplane on every little drop of water on the road.
Yes, the front tires are Rikens. So far I love them. They handle great and they are the ONLY tires I've had on the front of the car that don't constantly try to hydroplane on every little drop of water on the road.
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Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
Wow.. well this is deffinately bookmarked and i'll be doing this paintjob also.. i mean, what is there to lose? about 100 bucks and some time for the possibitly of a awesome paintjob done myself? i'll take that chance. Now...to see if they have a silver....
well a quick seach proved that a no. now, do i want my car an all black, or try and find a silver enamel.. probally just go all black
well a quick seach proved that a no. now, do i want my car an all black, or try and find a silver enamel.. probally just go all black
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Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
Did you paint the door jams, under the plastics, trunk railing, engine bay, and underside of the hood too? If so how did you go about it? And if not, why not?
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Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
Another thing i'm thinking about, did you have your air regulated and filtered, or did you paint it straight from the compressor
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Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
All I did was take the ground effects off. The car was originally red so it was pretty easy.
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Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
Alright cool. were about to install the filter and regulator system anyway. But i cant wait to try it.. I believe im gonna go with black, since its already a charcoal color, and i believe the original color was black anyway.
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Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
YOu can make something nice even if you roll it on.... Yeah you heard right, PAINT ROLLER...lol My buddy and I traded car about a year ago. Heres what the paint looked like after a short sand..
Not bad at all.
If you guys wanna follow the thread heres the URL.
http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=145219
On a side note, my car is painted in Single Stage Urethane, the colr is "Fleet White"
I am embarrassed to admit, since I have painted cars the right way before with a gun in a proper booth, that I got so sick of looking at the nasty 10 year old peeling primer on the car, that I painted it with gloss almond colored enamel and foam rollers today. I got one coat done and it looks surprisingly decent. This is a temp paint job and I do not expect it to be a hard, durable finish like a sprayed urethane would provide, but for a car I am going to wrench on for now at least it looks good from 20 feet away and shines and is not an eyesore.
I put rolled on coat #2 on today. It shines and looks good from 20 feet away but the quality up close, as I expected, is about as good as the worst spray job you might ever see. Well maybe a notch better than that. The funniest part is that my shiny, orange peely car still looks so much better than the molting layers of primer and extreme surface scale. But if you saw it in person you wouldn't be as impressed as the pics make it look. Wet sanding and buffing would improve the texture massively and it might look closer to a (badly) sprayed finish but its just not worth the time to sand and buff soft paint that dries by solvent evaporation only, and does not chemically cure to a durable finish like a urethane.
I just had to try it for myself and this car was so ugly, I had a moment of weakness and it involved a roller.
I can say I have a roller painted car with a roller motor. That sounds nice. I hope no one thinks I think that rolling the car was a good way to really paint a car. It's not. But its better than looking at 8 colors and rust.
LOL
Steve
I put rolled on coat #2 on today. It shines and looks good from 20 feet away but the quality up close, as I expected, is about as good as the worst spray job you might ever see. Well maybe a notch better than that. The funniest part is that my shiny, orange peely car still looks so much better than the molting layers of primer and extreme surface scale. But if you saw it in person you wouldn't be as impressed as the pics make it look. Wet sanding and buffing would improve the texture massively and it might look closer to a (badly) sprayed finish but its just not worth the time to sand and buff soft paint that dries by solvent evaporation only, and does not chemically cure to a durable finish like a urethane.
I just had to try it for myself and this car was so ugly, I had a moment of weakness and it involved a roller.
I can say I have a roller painted car with a roller motor. That sounds nice. I hope no one thinks I think that rolling the car was a good way to really paint a car. It's not. But its better than looking at 8 colors and rust.
LOL
Steve
If you guys wanna follow the thread heres the URL.
http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=145219
On a side note, my car is painted in Single Stage Urethane, the colr is "Fleet White"
#77
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Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
Yeah, I tried the roll on method at first with my previous paint job when I used rustoleum. IMO it's too messy, leaves roller tracks, WAY too much orange peel to sand out, and looks like crap on any color but white. That's why I personally prefer to spray. That's just what I experienced. Plus, spraying is SOOOOO much faster.
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Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
How much paint did you use in all?
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Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
so i basically need to buy a gallon then. I'm kinda wanting a burnt orange now.. but i my just go with the kubota orange, or just classic black.
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Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
I have a couple of questions. First off I am going to paint a hood to put onto my 89 Formula. I have a 10 gallon compressor. Is it going to be enough to do the job?
Second is you mixed one pint paint, 2 cans of hardener then 2 pints of Naptha?
Second is you mixed one pint paint, 2 cans of hardener then 2 pints of Naptha?
#82
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Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
Looks good...
I really doubt that there is any significant difference between that stuff and rustoleum, or for that matter, the enamel that you would get from an average budget automotive paint job. The difference here is that you used the hardener, which gives the stuff UV stability, chemically hardens it (rather than "drying"), makes it shiner (assuming that you used gloss hardener, they have semi and flat hardeners also). I'd bet that if you used the same hardener for in rustoleum you'd have the same results, just like with a cheap, maaco paint job if you don't pay for the hardener the paint chaulks faster and doesn't last as long/uv fades. I've mixed automotive synthetic enamel hardener with rustoleum and have had great results (I actually tried to get the valspar stuff and apparently they're phasing it out around here, normal consumers can't get it anymore, but I can mail order automotive stuff).
I am wondering about the amount you used, I think that you used it at 2 or 4x the normal strength... I also wonder what will happen with the bumpers the first time someone hits one reasonably hard, I've never gotten a good handle on why some paint jobs are prone to cracking on uritane bumpers and some don't (you are correct about the flex additive eventually evaporating out, I've also seen them change the color a little and I've wondered about adhesion issues).
I really doubt that there is any significant difference between that stuff and rustoleum, or for that matter, the enamel that you would get from an average budget automotive paint job. The difference here is that you used the hardener, which gives the stuff UV stability, chemically hardens it (rather than "drying"), makes it shiner (assuming that you used gloss hardener, they have semi and flat hardeners also). I'd bet that if you used the same hardener for in rustoleum you'd have the same results, just like with a cheap, maaco paint job if you don't pay for the hardener the paint chaulks faster and doesn't last as long/uv fades. I've mixed automotive synthetic enamel hardener with rustoleum and have had great results (I actually tried to get the valspar stuff and apparently they're phasing it out around here, normal consumers can't get it anymore, but I can mail order automotive stuff).
I am wondering about the amount you used, I think that you used it at 2 or 4x the normal strength... I also wonder what will happen with the bumpers the first time someone hits one reasonably hard, I've never gotten a good handle on why some paint jobs are prone to cracking on uritane bumpers and some don't (you are correct about the flex additive eventually evaporating out, I've also seen them change the color a little and I've wondered about adhesion issues).
#83
Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
I don't know about nowadays, but Rustoleum paint used to be fish oil based. I found this out one time way back when I painted the interior of a circle track car and got overspray outside. When I painted the exterior, the paint lifted everywhere the Rustoleum overspray was. My buddy's Dad told me why- the fish oil!
I know modern paint has been changed a lot since the old days due to environmental rules and etc. But I still like Rustoleum for base color rattle can work. Some of their other metallic and hammered texture stuff is kind of funky though.
I know modern paint has been changed a lot since the old days due to environmental rules and etc. But I still like Rustoleum for base color rattle can work. Some of their other metallic and hammered texture stuff is kind of funky though.
#84
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Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
BTW, a bunch of you have asked about silver, depending on the silver tone you're looking for, rustoleum has "aluminum" and you can mix it with one of their greys, black and/or white to get what you want (I mixed those to paint my engine stand, you might want to mix a small ammount first and decide on solvents since the aluminum (and most sliver paints) act a little different then the solid colors.
Valspar also makes a "trailer and farm equipment" paint which I believe is exactly the same paint as the farm tractor stuff just not in the farm tractor colors, and they have a silver:
http://www.valsparglobal.com/val/res...spar_truck.jsp
BTW, rustoleum is also valspar, I wouldn't be suprised if they're all made using the same base stocks, while I'm at it I know that I've mixed it with ace hardware's version also without any problems.
Oh, and the couple of questions about f-body white (GM Arctic White), it's actually just an off white, just mix some gloss white with a few drops of black and maybe red...
I keep meaning to try mixing in some metalflake to see if I can make a good metallic.
Valspar also makes a "trailer and farm equipment" paint which I believe is exactly the same paint as the farm tractor stuff just not in the farm tractor colors, and they have a silver:
http://www.valsparglobal.com/val/res...spar_truck.jsp
BTW, rustoleum is also valspar, I wouldn't be suprised if they're all made using the same base stocks, while I'm at it I know that I've mixed it with ace hardware's version also without any problems.
Oh, and the couple of questions about f-body white (GM Arctic White), it's actually just an off white, just mix some gloss white with a few drops of black and maybe red...
I keep meaning to try mixing in some metalflake to see if I can make a good metallic.
#85
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Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
I know what I'm doing this summer then. This is awesome, and it is close enough for me to Bright Red that I won't care.
It reminds me of Jim85iroc's paint job:
But this what my car looks like when theres no maintenance:
Its going to look so much better after I do this, I just have to man up and scratch it
I've spent so much money on things to make the original paint look nice again, for me a paint job was always something that would cost me thousands to do that would require me a lot of saving, but now all I need it a sprayer and an air compressor and supplies. Shouldn't be a problem.
I'm going to be so scared doing it myself though, I'm only 17 and this is my first car!
This is the best that I've gotten the paint to look:
It reminds me of Jim85iroc's paint job:
But this what my car looks like when theres no maintenance:
Its going to look so much better after I do this, I just have to man up and scratch it
I've spent so much money on things to make the original paint look nice again, for me a paint job was always something that would cost me thousands to do that would require me a lot of saving, but now all I need it a sprayer and an air compressor and supplies. Shouldn't be a problem.
I'm going to be so scared doing it myself though, I'm only 17 and this is my first car!
This is the best that I've gotten the paint to look:
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Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
So, would it be worth spraying a layer or 2 of clear coat over the tractor paint?
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Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
I don't know about nowadays, but Rustoleum paint used to be fish oil based. I found this out one time way back when I painted the interior of a circle track car and got overspray outside. When I painted the exterior, the paint lifted everywhere the Rustoleum overspray was. My buddy's Dad told me why- the fish oil!
I know modern paint has been changed a lot since the old days due to environmental rules and etc. But I still like Rustoleum for base color rattle can work. Some of their other metallic and hammered texture stuff is kind of funky though.
I know modern paint has been changed a lot since the old days due to environmental rules and etc. But I still like Rustoleum for base color rattle can work. Some of their other metallic and hammered texture stuff is kind of funky though.
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Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
I'd be pretty surprised if clear would make it any more durable, it's just one more coat to chip, and more dissimilar stuff to separate. The fact is that enamel + hardener should be about as durable as any other paint will ever get, if not more so... you'd have to have a baked on finish to get anything harder.
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Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
I'd be pretty surprised if clear would make it any more durable, it's just one more coat to chip, and more dissimilar stuff to separate. The fact is that enamel + hardener should be about as durable as any other paint will ever get, if not more so... you'd have to have a baked on finish to get anything harder.
#92
Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
Nope, the Rustoleum paint I was referring to in my previous post was not the rusty brown colored primer. It was gloss black out of a quart can, shot on the rollcage and interior sheet metal. I knew I would be painting the outside later so I didn't worry about overspray. When I taped and papered off the interior and shot the exterior, everywhere the Rustoleum overspray was, the automotive enamel lifted. This was back when you could still by straight enamel and laquer automotive paint.
I had to sand and clean the Rustoleum off with reducer and reshoot the exterior and all was good. That was a long time back and I know things have changed since 1984 or so. The VOC and environmental rules on paint and supplies has in some ways really messed up paint in my opinion.
My buddy's Dad worked for a trucking supply and repair company and knew a fair amount about paint, as he did most of their painting on both cabs and trailers. I never took a sample of the Rustoleum gloss black paint back then, but I still believe what he said about the fish oil to be true.
In much more recent times I have used Rustoleum from a quart can and found it to be CRAPPY paint, I am very disappointed in it. As I said, however, they are my favorite brand for rattle can work. The formula in the Rustoleum rattle cans seems to be different than what's in the Rustoleum quart cans.
I had to sand and clean the Rustoleum off with reducer and reshoot the exterior and all was good. That was a long time back and I know things have changed since 1984 or so. The VOC and environmental rules on paint and supplies has in some ways really messed up paint in my opinion.
My buddy's Dad worked for a trucking supply and repair company and knew a fair amount about paint, as he did most of their painting on both cabs and trailers. I never took a sample of the Rustoleum gloss black paint back then, but I still believe what he said about the fish oil to be true.
In much more recent times I have used Rustoleum from a quart can and found it to be CRAPPY paint, I am very disappointed in it. As I said, however, they are my favorite brand for rattle can work. The formula in the Rustoleum rattle cans seems to be different than what's in the Rustoleum quart cans.
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Car: 1989 Formula 350 LSX
Engine: 5.3, 234/228 cam
Transmission: Stage II 4L60e, Vigilante 3200
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
I'm curious about applying clear over it as well, I was thinking about going with a bright white color, then ordering some blue pearl additive to throw in a few coats of clear and see how it comes out. Should look awesome on a firebird.
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#98
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: sturgeon bay wisconsin
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Car: 91 firebird
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: stock
Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
wow cant beleive you did that outside for one and two the pain you used came out so good .. i did mine in garage and still got dust on the paint, even with a wet floor. i dont know how you did it , but im guessin you probebly had more wet sanding than you make it sound,,,, i could be wrong,,, nice job though.
about the flex agent,,, those parts are flexing all the time even when they are already bolted on. they are plasic. i hope that it doesnt start comin off in ayear or so cause it really looks good !!!
i did mine with industrial autocoat paint, thanks to my wonderfull employer. lol so mine was cheap but got good paint , i used apoxy on mine, jet black. came out good. about a year or so later i had to do the plastics twice though cause i didnt use flex agent, those peices move more then many people think.. its been three years now after the flex agent fix and still no problems.
good job
about the flex agent,,, those parts are flexing all the time even when they are already bolted on. they are plasic. i hope that it doesnt start comin off in ayear or so cause it really looks good !!!
i did mine with industrial autocoat paint, thanks to my wonderfull employer. lol so mine was cheap but got good paint , i used apoxy on mine, jet black. came out good. about a year or so later i had to do the plastics twice though cause i didnt use flex agent, those peices move more then many people think.. its been three years now after the flex agent fix and still no problems.
good job
#99
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Bastrop, TX
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Car: 1988 SC Convertible
Engine: LT-1
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 posi w/PBR's
Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
wow cant beleive you did that outside for one and two the pain you used came out so good .. i did mine in garage and still got dust on the paint, even with a wet floor. i dont know how you did it , but im guessin you probebly had more wet sanding than you make it sound,,,, i could be wrong,,, nice job though.
Actually, there really wasn't a whole lot of wet sanding to do. The paint laid down very, very nice. My two fairly new Chevy trucks have way more orange peel in the factory paint than what my car had when I sprayed it.
Thanks again! I'm still going to stick to my guns on this statement though: I don't need no stinking flex agent. I'm constantly leaning on the nose when I'm tinkering with stuff under the hood and I have yet to have any issues.
#100
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Car: 92 Camaro
Engine: 404 SBC
Transmission: The strongest stock T5 ever made
Axle/Gears: 3.73 w/Detriot Tru Trac Locker
Re: The ULTIMATE budget paint job (pic heavy)
Paint looks amazing FYRCHKN! The only question I have is how do you think it holds up on the bumpers? My car has the unfortunate curse of getting backed into...4 days after it's painted. Then its repainted and gets hit with a loose basketball days later. Does the paint flex at all with the bumpers? Or would it probably chip and crack like a cheap paint job would