UGH! more rust questions
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From: Central Connecticut
Car: 91 Trans Am 'vert
Engine: LB9
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9 bolt
UGH! more rust questions
Hey guys, well i was working on my 91 Trans Am vert today and I found some rust in the ugliest of places. What am I supposed to do?
Some showed up above the front pass. wheel well on the unibody frame:

close up:

I'm thinking of just sanding this with a wire brush as best as I can, cleaning it, then probably just coating it heavily with POR-15 to stop it from growing.
And here, I'll definitely need a new piece of floor under the driver's feet. I'm just wondering though, is the plug thing necessary? Why is it there?
Some showed up above the front pass. wheel well on the unibody frame:

close up:

I'm thinking of just sanding this with a wire brush as best as I can, cleaning it, then probably just coating it heavily with POR-15 to stop it from growing.
And here, I'll definitely need a new piece of floor under the driver's feet. I'm just wondering though, is the plug thing necessary? Why is it there?
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,777
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From: Central Connecticut
Car: 91 Trans Am 'vert
Engine: LB9
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9 bolt
Re: UGH! more rust questions
bump... come on I know somebody has some info on this.
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 569
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From: Madison, SD
Car: '82 Camaro
Engine: 383
Transmission: TKO 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 31 spline 9" with 4.56:1
Re: UGH! more rust questions
Not a big deal... When you have the floor cut out, just cut out the rusted area on the support piece and replace it with a same thickness of material patch.... the plugs are not necessary, btw.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,777
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From: Central Connecticut
Car: 91 Trans Am 'vert
Engine: LB9
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9 bolt
Re: UGH! more rust questions
Oh ok, then why did GM put them there in the first place? Because those things seem to be the first to rot out. And anybody got any tips on the rust in the first 2 pictures?
Last edited by musclecar70sfan; Feb 16, 2010 at 11:31 AM.
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From: Kentucky
Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
Engine: 6.2L LS3 to come
Transmission: 4L60E LVL2 700rwhp
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: UGH! more rust questions
Check out the group purchases. I'm trying to get a discounted order on floor pans.
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Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 503
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From: Des Moines, IA
Car: 90 Formula WS6, 86 Sport Coupe
Engine: 305 TBI, 2.8 MPFI
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4w/vette servos
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open, 3.42 Open
Re: UGH! more rust questions
For the first two pics, how large is the opening? It looks like you should be able to fit a dremel tool with a small grinding wheel in there. If you can't get it all POR 15 or rustbullet should take car of it.
For the floor pans, just look for a parts car with decent pans and cut out what you need. Your really don't look that bad, mine are WAYYYY worse. I wouldn't recommend just welding in sheet metal. The bends and curves are necessary.
Good luck
Alex
For the floor pans, just look for a parts car with decent pans and cut out what you need. Your really don't look that bad, mine are WAYYYY worse. I wouldn't recommend just welding in sheet metal. The bends and curves are necessary.
Good luck
Alex
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,777
Likes: 0
From: Central Connecticut
Car: 91 Trans Am 'vert
Engine: LB9
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9 bolt
Re: UGH! more rust questions
For the first two pics, how large is the opening? It looks like you should be able to fit a dremel tool with a small grinding wheel in there. If you can't get it all POR 15 or rustbullet should take car of it.
For the floor pans, just look for a parts car with decent pans and cut out what you need. Your really don't look that bad, mine are WAYYYY worse. I wouldn't recommend just welding in sheet metal. The bends and curves are necessary.
Good luck
Alex
For the floor pans, just look for a parts car with decent pans and cut out what you need. Your really don't look that bad, mine are WAYYYY worse. I wouldn't recommend just welding in sheet metal. The bends and curves are necessary.
Good luck
Alex
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Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 503
Likes: 1
From: Des Moines, IA
Car: 90 Formula WS6, 86 Sport Coupe
Engine: 305 TBI, 2.8 MPFI
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4w/vette servos
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open, 3.42 Open
Re: UGH! more rust questions
Good to hear, cutting and patching isn't always necessary. With that small a hole fiberglass should do the trick if Chassis Silver doesn't. I would definitely get some sub frame connectors though, especially since it's a vert. They've got enough chassis flex as it is.
Alex
Alex
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 569
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From: Madison, SD
Car: '82 Camaro
Engine: 383
Transmission: TKO 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 31 spline 9" with 4.56:1
Re: UGH! more rust questions
Fiberglass and steel expand and contract at different rates, a fiberglass repair is temporary at best... With all the inherent flex in the chassis, any patching should be done with steel welded in place...any holes, gaps, or rust outs will only add to the chassis flexing issuel..... If the car is worth repairing, then why not repair it right?????
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,777
Likes: 0
From: Central Connecticut
Car: 91 Trans Am 'vert
Engine: LB9
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9 bolt
Re: UGH! more rust questions
Fiberglass and steel expand and contract at different rates, a fiberglass repair is temporary at best... With all the inherent flex in the chassis, any patching should be done with steel welded in place...any holes, gaps, or rust outs will only add to the chassis flexing issuel..... If the car is worth repairing, then why not repair it right?????
Good to hear, cutting and patching isn't always necessary. With that small a hole fiberglass should do the trick if Chassis Silver doesn't. I would definitely get some sub frame connectors though, especially since it's a vert. They've got enough chassis flex as it is.
Alex
Alex
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