In case anyone has sagging doors, (Who doesn't on a 3rd Gen?) I just repaired my driver side door without having to remove the door and I fixed both the upper and lower hinges. Here's the link for the parts that are needed for one door. Basic shop tools are all you need and this door literally closes like a brand new door. Little expensive but when you take into consideration the time and aggravation saved it's worth it.
http://andyz28.com/3rdGen/greaseinfo.html

 

Looks no different than the TDS stuff, so how did you do it without taking the door off? More info please.

 

If you have an engine hoist you can use it to hold the door in place. That's probably the biggest shop tool you need. A jack will also work but you just need to be careful not to let the door flop around. You'll need a dremel with a metal cutting bit. The bottom hinge is simple once you get the spring off. The top hinge is the one that usuall goes bad. If done by a dealer or shop they used to pull the door off, cut the weld and either weld or bolt in a new one. You use the dremel to cut the heads off the pins and punch them out. New bushings and greasable fittings bolt right in and door goes right back on. First one I've done and it took me about two hours. I could do it in about 1.5 hours now. I have 3 more to do. The instructions are very good if you look at the ones on the website. The instructions that come with the package weren't as good.

 

OK. So no different than the TDS kit. The door still has to come off the same amount, to replace the hinges with the new style. I wasn't sure if there was something different you had discovered or what.

 

Little pricey for the kits. Lower hindge kit $5.00 upper bolts about $5.00 each. They can be found at any tractor/ industrial supply place. Those are actually common bolts used in heavy equipment. But definatly a good mod

 

While the lowers are included, that is not where the price comes from. There are only like 3 places (that I know of) to get the uppers & they all range between $95-$100.

You can't buy the uppers in the store & they are really why the door sags (and they aren't just bolts like you think they are). It goes out & create the stress on the lowers. Sometimes just doing the uppers is enough, if the lowers haven't been stressed for too long & stressed too much.

 

you sorta missed my whole point on this... If your trying to save a buck and dont mind hitting a few industrial / tractor supply parts shops you can find the exact same bolt for the uppers in any size you want (not in a kit). and the lowers are available at any auto parts store. I know myself for me to buy the kit and then pay shipping etc up to my area the price doubles. Were i have enough heavy equipment shops up here that after a little bit of searching i found the exact same bolt.
I have seen the kits as high at $300

 

We may have different opinions on what taking the door off means. When I did mine, I only moved the door a few inches there's no need to disconnect the wire harness for power locks and/or windows. The hinge doesn't get replaced either, it's just the bushings and pins.

 

Well here is one for half the price.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...39228192365451

 

I think Stephen's right you can't just put a bolt in place of the pins on the upper hinge. Did this actually work for you?

 

You go ahead and try a standard bolt up top. Yes it'll "work, but not very long before the friction of using a standard bolt wallows out the hinges themselves & you end up having to cut them off, weld new ones on & them do the hinge pivots the correct way.

Yes...You can cheap out that way, but it'll create more problems in the long run.

Do It Once & Do It Right is my motto. I've tried to do things cheaply in the past & they always seemed to bite me in the *** later. So there was the cost of doing it wrong the first time + ending up fixing what it broke + the cost of buying what I shoulda bought the first time.

I know that sometimes there is simply no choice. But even then, I consider the additional extra cost of re-fixing it later.

I just don't want people seeing this thread in the future & thinking it is just as good to put in standard bolts, then end up costing themselves more $ & trouble later & wondering..."But I did what that thread talked about doing....WTF?"

Just my 2 cents on the subject.

 

Couldn't agree more Stephen. I have sort of the same motto, "No time to do it right, always time to do it again."

 

But, these arent greaseable.

But, a cheap alternative, nonetheless.

 

That looks like a $5 solution.

1 bolt
1 washer
1 nut
1 brass ring

The softness of the brass is what allows the door to swing easier & not hang up on like it would on just a bolt in there.

 

Ok seriously did people miss the part where i said you can find the EXACT SAME bolt? I never once said anything about using a standard bolt. Those greasable bolts with the large sholders are used in heavey equipment all the time. I have picked them up severall times for other projects.

 

That's awesome. Do they come with the bushings too?

 

Then give us a link to it/part #/manufacturer name/picture of it (just go to te store & take a pic of it on the rack)....Something. I call without seeing physical proof it exists.

 

im in nee of both sidess

 

ya like i have time to go running around to take pic's for your amusement. I really don't care if you beleve me or not.