Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

I'm going to have to replace my windshield sometime here. Got a crack in the lower driver's side corner running in a rough square from the bottom to the side due to body flex, and I kind of broke one of the upper corners pulling out the molding so I could strip the windshield bow and grind out the rust up there.

I'm wondering if anyone else has had their windshield replaced and how much it cost them. I can get a good windshield from a yard not too far from me, but I was wondering about the cost of installation.

Pillsbry10

iTrader: (1)

thats a good question i need an answer to as well...i just pulled one out of my parts car for my car

i know a lot of those glass places will actually come out to you

camaronewbie

I got mine for $160 installed from a local glass guy. Most glass places in this area quoted me $200.

white gold 88

Read your book and do it yourself. Shouldn't be a problem for someone with your extensive knowledge. I have done many of them, could help you do it yourself, but what do I know?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Oh, just flippin terrific. One of my trolls decided to show up...

For your information, I could possibly do it, but I'd rather pay someone to do it right the first time so I wouldn't have to do so anyways. The hatch is easy to keep water out of, but I already have enough rust in the front end that I'd rather have it done professionally to make sure there isn't any water leaking around it.

Now, it would be nice if you'd crawl back under the rock you came from...

white gold 88

Troll, haha Your experienced advice is awesome. Bash me on another thread then when the truth comes out you run to another thread and spout more book knowledge. Got your ride running yet or just running your mouth on these threads. Show us something. BTW Here's a pic of my $300 car that I had to do nothing to.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Like I said, Mr. Troll... You may have bought yours for $300, but mine was in a little bit worse shape. Or, should I say, a whole lot. Bet you didn't have to pull 3 bags of trash out of your car before you brought it home. And then pull the entire interior to get the rest out. And replace the engine and transmission, and the suspension, and the weatherstripping, and the front brakes, within the first year, because the PO of your car apparently took care of yours.

As I said in another of my threads, and my signature, my car is undergoing a RESTOMOD (do you even know what that IS?). I won't be done with it until NEXT YEAR, at the very least. I'm on a tight budget, unlike I'm sure you are. I collect parts as I go and get things done when I can, and when I'm not working on my car, I'm HELPING people here. It's people like you that I get rough with because you insult me for helping others. Oh, and FYI, I didn't even bother to read your response to me in that other thread because I actually choose to follow forum rules and don't care to stoop to your level.

Now, if you could just scram before this gets locked, and let people who actually know what they're talking about post, I'd appreciate it. Your whole whopping 68 posts are impressive.

:edit: You want to know where my ride is? Check here: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...orth-cost.html

Except that the driver's side fender has been painted now, the fuel and brake lines removed (except the front right brake and fuel vapor line) and the front suspension is just about ready to come out.

white gold 88

You sure think you know alot about me. Did you read that in a book as well. Maybe if you went back and looked at the last post you would learn the proper way to adjust your $2000 hatch. Instead of ratting out metal that's hard to replace. As I told you before, I've been making my living over 30 years doing body and paint work. Numerous I+CAR and ASE certificates mean nothing to me but I have them anyway. I haven't tried to ditch you untill you started on me. So if name calling and telling EXPERIENCED body men they don't know what they are talking about makes you feel smarter then have at it. Like you said in the other thread, I want to see cars repaired right. When I tear down a car someone else has worked on and see holes reamed out I just laugh, So called body men don't realize something else is wrong or don't care and start making holes bigger to make up for something else wrong. That is what we call a HACK job.

If your windshield is broken anyway it shouldn't be any problem to remove. A piece of w-shield wire and a few minutes of work should have it out. I can tell you how to remove it yourself if you want. But I can't find the proper procedure in a book anywhere to prove it works.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, well, like I said, the way you do the hatch job is NOT the way the factory wants it done. And if others do the same, then, well, there's a problem. And my hatch isn't just misaligned at the tail (I'm sure others aren't as well), as I told you before. If you would care to actually look at the hatch the whole way around on some of your customer cars, you may actually notice the huge gap at the top that isn't supposed to be quite so large (or at least SHOULDN'T be quite so large). I'm sure that GM didn't intend for that gap to be so big that I can stick any one of my fingers in there the WIDE way (about half an inch or so), and for the hatch glass as a whole to look misaligned with the body when actually viewed from the tail. But you go ahead and keep disconnecting the finish panel from the glass to half-bake a correction to the WHOLE unit.

Get it now? Next time you come across a 3rd gen, or look at your own car, look at the difference between the lines of the quarter panels and the hatch frame. I'll bet it's an 1/8" off the whole way around as mine is.

Oh, and GM would NOT have made the outer holes on the hatch SQUARE if they didn't intend for the hatch to be adjusted that way. One would think that the money spent on that punch die would be a little cheaper if they just used the same drill bit on those holes as they did the others.

white gold 88

Like I said before, why bother you don't read, I was working at a GM d-ship when these cars came out new. They had large gaps all the way around then. And yes, I had to repair some where someone ratted the holes out on the roof to the point the hinge didn't cover the hole anymore. They got the hatch to shut but the back seat stayed wet in the rain from the glass no longer touching the w-strip and the extra hole around the hinge. Look at aphrodite's pics. Notice the large holes in the glass. That is where GM did their adjustments on the line. Shoot they probably had a set length for all hatches and that's where they went together at. They told you to adjust hatch that way but as you know there's not a lot of adjustment there. They didn't say to rat the holes out. Believe me if they did they would show you how much and which direction and to reapply rust protection. You're reading something into it that isn't there. If you looked on the link I posted from this forum they have a good and very detailed explanition on how to align your hatch. Hatch alignment 101.

Just an example, many trucks have been sent back to d-ships to get bed aligned. There's very little adjustment on truck beds. But the cabs will move alot. So we move the cabs to align to the bed. Customers just think we moved the bed.

vettsfan

where i live they go to you and install for just 110$ and thats with tip

p.s. they thats also windshield included

white gold 88

I believe I paid $160 glass included but got one of the glass company employees to do it on the side. Even put new moulding on. Sounds like you got better deal. Cost different in different areas I guess. glass is pretty much glass but I did get one for a Ranger one time that got straighter, less curve toward one side. Wouldn't seal, no way. Got to be worst glass I've ever seen.

Ron U.S.M.C.

"Low Price Auto Glass"
Front windshield and moulding replaced and out the door for $125.00

white gold 88

Good price. I figured they would be higher in CA then SC. 2500 mile ride to save 40 bucks. . .road trip lol

Ron U.S.M.C.

I have family back east. Did some of my tour there with basic training at Parris Island SC and stationed at Camp Lejeune NC. for a few years.
Hows the weather back there ?

white gold 88

Great for now. All that rain last week wasn't too good. Bike week at the beach and they got wet. LOL Glad my toy has a roof.

88txiroc

Maverick and White......

I suggest that you take your bickering to PM's. If I see ANY more posts like what is above, I will just delete ALL of your posts and lock the thread. These boards are for TGO members to help one another. Follow the rules, plain and simple.

Thomas (88txiroc)

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Thanks for that. Now maybe something useful can be posted here.

All I wanted was a rough figure on how much it would cost to have it done professionally because I'd rather not do it myself and know it's done right and he comes in... And apparently you've read the rest.

383 Power

iTrader: (2)

I JUST got my Windshield replaced yesterday (Blue Tape is still on there). It was $190 in Shreveport, LA. I thought it would be more actually.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

I'd be greatly appreciative if company names were posted, especially for national chains (I'm in NY).

Has anyone used SafeLite?

85Z28NOS

iTrader: (2)

Just to throw out some numbers and my two cents for doing it yourself. You can buy the correct window sealer from O'Rieleys or most other chain stores for $15-25. It only takes an hour from start to finish and is VERY easy, especialy if a friend helps( but is not a must).

Sonymaster20

iTrader: (3)

I paid 110$ for mine and its a good brand new windshield. No leaks and that was installed.

Here in Houston of course

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

There's a couple reasons I want it done professionally:

1. I can't tell if it's the original or not.
2. It's off center... The outer molding came off just fine on the pass side but it won't budge on the driver's side. Hence why the upper corner is broken as I tried to pry it out of the slot.
3. Looks like most of the sealant is breaking loose around the edge already, especially in the corners on the passenger's side and at the bottom.

I have a feeling that the PO may have had something to do with it, and that makes me less interested in doing it myself. I've already had to fix WAY too much of what he screwed up.

1piece@atime

iTrader: (1)

Safelite is a good one around here so is Speedy and Genuine.

What prices have you been quoted in your area? Those are the prices you should be most interested in.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

I haven't started calling around yet because that will probably be one of the last things done before the car goes back on the road. I'm just trying to figure out how much to expect to pay for it right now so I don't get "sticker shock" .

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

I'm having mine done later this week by "Glass Doctor". Only problem I have is they can't get the original style windshield that has the black/gold tint on the top of the window. It comes with a "bluish" tint or something like that. Anyway, need to get it done so I can pass my annual inspection here in Utah. Stupid crack isn't even in the drivers view, just along the bottom and it still failed. Anyway, it's going to be $156.00 installed in my driveway.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

If their safety inspection laws are like here in NY, ANY crack, no matter where it is or how big it is, in the wiper tracks, automatically fails the car.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

you have a troll? how?! your like one of the nicest and easiest people to get along with here dan.