Last year I bought my first 3rd gen. EDIT Looks like I did not over pay bad I really liked the seller he was really passionate about the car I guess I was just a little disappointed with the body. The mechanical is top notch. EDIT I have decided to make the best of it. I was attracted to the car by the mechanical and I guess I should have paid more attention to the body. Either way I am stripping it down and I am going to make it solid again. Please excuse the bad pics




So here we go the good and the bad


The good
The engine, Trans
Rebuild 355 4 bolt main mild cam 489 lift and rebuilt heads
Poly motor mounts
new small started
Polished RPM performer
1405 600cfm carb
5 Speed NWC trans poly mounts
New flywheel
New clutch
MSD ignition
New slave cylinder
Magnaflow exhaust and headers


Suspension
New springs intrax
New struts
New various suspension components
Stamp steel rear connectors replaced with box steel

Rear end
GT4 L69 RPO code 3.73 rear with powertrax lockright installed.
Rear disks

Various
All new brakes and calipers
New rear tires
Extra radiator, 5 speed trans, rear quarter panels, headlight motors and electric fan.

 

The Bad

RUST

Rear wheel well


Spare Tire



Rear Frame seems mostly scale



Rear Frame closer



Passenger floor looks good



Surface rust under seat



Drivers side foot area




Drivers side foot area hole

 

Under the WET black pad drivers side




Drivers jack point


Passenger jack point




Let me know what you think

 

I don't know how much you paid, but that's a nice looking car. personally I couldn't drive a car didn't have AC, but hey, I live in texas.

oh.. i just saw the rust pics you added... yeah, that's bad, but I've seen worse.

well, when you get that fixed you'll have a great car

 

Yea no AC and lots of rust. I guess in my stupid wisdom I thought it would be cleaner considering the money he had in it. The metal except the jack points and driver floor seems solid mostly scale. I will be getting my TIG out soon and starting repair after I clean the holes to a more squareish pattern. I am hoping to patch everything and POR15 the car.

 

Some more pics during tear down

Carpet gonna be replaced

 

What did you pay for the car? The rust is all common areas for these cars. I just had my wheel well repaired when my car went in for paint, you got a nice garage btw.

 

2700 with a new windshield put in.
I think I can clean it all up or at least weld in new metal, reseal it and POR15 the entire thing. I am going to make a project out of it. Frame supports are gonna go in and I figure less than $150 in metal, rod, gas and paint will be needed. I guess that is better than needing new mechanicals. The worst thing that happens is I build the motor and the trans and then end up shoving it in a different shell but for now my wife is taking a month long trip home soon so I think I will have plenty of time to work before may is over

 

honest to god, i would prolly pay 2700 for it, put some manual labor into the body and get some paint on it. the engine looks great by the way

 

The mechanicals really attracted me the 4 bolt main good block and just the fact he seemed to put it together right. He as also an ASE mechanic. He also seemed to use good parts comp cams cam, rockers and springs. MSD ignition and dist, Edelbrock intake and carb acell wires and plugs ect... He also installed these they list on summit for about 300 bucks. The car drives straight and does not shake and runs smooth. That is why I bought it.



I got these for 100 to replace the seats and I also got a good deal on the shaft local.

 

I don't think 2700 is that bad and I don't think you overpaid. Most dont believe it but these cars are getting worth more money as each and every year passes. I work in the automotive business and when I have to order parts for these cars from junkyards or other shops, they get more and more expensive every-time.

In 2009 I paid $1300 for my 85' camaro, it was basically a roller. The 350 was swapped in but not running, no exhaust, no brakes. The good part was the body had only 78k on it and had no rust and the paint was fairly new. She also came with a new rebuilt t-5, and 90% new interior.

All said and done I think you got a good deal for a car with a nice motor, that was drivable and ready to run with no real problems. Thats a good price, and seriously with the price of cars these days. Heck its less than the down payment I put on my daily driver.

Its in a little rough shape underneath and cosmetic wise, but cosmetically with a little work and sweat you can have that thing looking real nice, real quick. Especially the motor a little $ elbow grease and it will look brand new.

 

I don't think you overpaid at all. Looks to be a solid project with a feasible outcome not far down the road. Be happy with your purchase because I've seen much worse for a lot more. Can't beat a solid running third gen for decent money

 

I see the motor is still running the v-belt setup, So is mine and I hate it so much. No matter how much I try to get it perfect it will run great for a month and eventually I will throw a belt, not to mention the slips here and there. It was a real paint to get it to the point were I could have everything working nicely. I would swap it to a serp system, Hopefully after my new head work, cam, and body work, I will have enough left to rig up a new belt system.

Also, I have built and run a few small blocks and for some reason Ive never enjoyed when they had the edelbrock carbs on them ESPECIALLY with a manual trans. I know there are better carbs out there but for a street application I am a bit partial to Holley double pumpers, and Demon carbs. They are just better IMHO as far as tune-ability, power, and modification. Just an opinion, but I would toss the edelbrock and grab a Holley with mechanical secondary's if your car is a manual. I believe Summit sells a 600cfm DP that would work great on your setup plus its made by holley for summit and is under 300$ I believe. Great street carb for the money.

As for the body, Do as much steel and metal work as you can and as little putty/filler/bondo work as possible. Also when you are using filler use the best you can afford for the right application. Takes more time but you wont regret it.

 

Thanks for the responses guys I guess I looked at some the deals other people had on the board and I thought I had overpaid. This is a fun car and it is a L69. As for the carb it seems to work great with my setup. The mechanical secondaries are really easy to control so I will keep it for now. Besides next big chunk of change goes toward vortec heads I already got the manifold so I should be good to go.

I will do the metal work new carpet and get it ready for spring. Does anybody have a suggestion for a good body sealer preferably one I can get local and use with a caulking gun?

 

I guess you deleted the pics cause I dont see any,but it sounds like a fair deal.At least you dont have to do engine work to make it road worthy.
A good friend of mine did the opposite.He bought a car for the way it looked and now he cant afford to get the engine and trans right to make it a reliable car.The body,paint and interior look great,but the PO supposedly put in a 350/290 crate,which suck for performance.The t-5 is constantly getting hung up in gears when it warms up and is basically trashed.a few friends got everything underhood the best we could with what we had to work with.Its still junk IMO.Yours is driveable.His sits in the garage till he gets the money together,BUT IT LOOKS NICE!

Blackmagic,I`ve been running v belts on mine forever and have never thrown a belt or had adjustability problems.never had them on my previous 87 TA either.

 

All the pics are still up not sure what is going on. Yea my trans is a little rough as well but I am also leaking from the speedo cable so maybe I am low on fluid. Oh well I still got an extra when I bought the car.

 

I see the pics now.Its fixable not a bad deal IMO.

 

Thanks a lot to everybody you have really made me feel better about my purchase. The mechanicals really made me love the car. It goes down the road straighter and smoother than my toyota. The dual springs and roller rockers are worth good money and it runs amazing.

I will get more pics soon as I start making the small rust holes larger and square.

 

the previous owner definitely did not skimp on anything from your photos, probably just got discouraged by the rust. I think you made out pretty well; just spend some time on fixing the holes and you've got a good set o wheels on your hands.

 

Yea I also got discouraged after seeing all the rust. The previous owner was a great guy seemed honest and I think he really loved the car. He actually called me a few weeks ago and asked if I was gonna bring it by his shop this summer for an inspection. I am going to fix it the materials are on order now I just need time.

 

Small Update my wife was sick then had to have some minor surgery so I have not been working much. But now sh is better and visiting her family in the Philippines so I have work time.

I got the rest of the interior out and vacuumed the random crap off the floor. I also removed a lot of seam sealer and the floor plugs.

Overall the drivers side is the one that sucks the passenger even under the seam sealer is clean. I got the por 15 floor kit. I am going to weld in new metal to cover the holes in the driver side then paint it and strengthen it with power mesh as long as it is only surface rust. The fram supports are also at my house and I will get the plasma cutter and tig from my friend next week.


Sorry for bad cell phone pics

 

 

BIG hole. I made my first hole and cut the drain and the rust hole out. Using my angle grinder sucked so i will set up the plasma cutter tonight.

 

Ours are rusting in the same places, however my acute OCD has me looking for replacement floor pans to repair the rust. You just using sheet?

 

You got it 18awg + plasma cutter + TIG + POR15 = good floor pan

 

Ouch... I thought mine was bad... Don't you just love WNY salt? Might want to check under the front fenders just in case. Those holes behind the kick panels on the inside may have eaten through the outside as well.

Too bad my car ain't moving... Could use a hand with some of my rust-out holes.

The biggest pain is going to be around the wheel wells... Lots of funky bends there. Luckily I caught the rust on my driver's side before it gets much worse.

 

It is really not too bad the big hole is a combination of the drain and the rust hole being cut out together. I am cutting out all the drains and I am going to weld in new metal. But yea the wheel well is gonna suck so I will take it slow and weld in small pieces and take it slow. Any tips on the fenders? I got the hood off and I think I just have to get the front bolts and the bolt behind the door. Will the front bolts be accessible when I get the fender liner off?

 

You're going to need to remove the hood anyways because the fenders are sandwiched underneath the hood hinges (and the fenders need to come up and over the side frame rails, which having the hood bolted down won't allow for). Leave the front end of the fenders alone and take them and the front bumper off as a unit, disconnecting anything you need to along the way (park lights, lower fender braces, GFX, etc), since both are probably going to need to come off anyways. Or you could just remove the headlights and the bolts are right there, but I would just pull the fenders and front bumper cover as one piece to avoid too many hassles (done it before).

Don't forget the fender bolts under the car in front of the doors. From the looks of it, your pinch welds are all bent out of shape so you'll have to bend them back down before you can take the bolts out. Hopefully they're not so rusted that they fall apart when you bend them back the way they're supposed to be.

 

Can't wait to see how this turns out

 

I just read your thread awesome.

I need to get more pics I wanted to start welding yesterday but did not have the right regulator so I will exchange it today. But I cut out the drains and started forming the patches. After I get the floor patches in I will raise the car up and start getting the jack points and the rear wheel well finished.

 

Thanks! The car still ain't perfect but I'm pretty happy with it.

 

Good to hear I just sometimes get annoyed it seems every layer I pull back is more rust. Ugg but it is getting there

 

I'm sure this isn't something you want to hear, but considering the rest of the car so far, it's necessary:

Also check your brake and fuel lines under the car... Mine were getting quite nasty with rust. If the brake line pops, you're in trouble one way, and if the fuel lines go, your car could be all done yet still go out in a blaze of glory . Sorry, had to say it.

Also, my thread... https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...orth-cost.html Going from the bare frame up on this one. Only still need to pull the windshield because it's broken and the rear hatch before I go to Harbor Freight (down the road from you) and get some aluminum oxide abrasive to go to town on the rust, paint, and other crap on the body of my car. I'd recommend that, BTW, that you get some sort of abrasive blaster and let it rip (I'm actually using my pressure washer with a sandblaster attachment due to no high-flow air compressor).

 

Ok small update with extra shitty cellphone pics.


First Patch EPIC FAIL My sheet metal was way to thick and my rod was way to thick and my experience was way to little.

But here it is.

Rear Drain hole



Then I got the right metal but wrong rod and still not enough experience






Front patch warning bad picture

Then I got the right rod and things got better




Then I figured out how to grind the tips better

Drivers side feet area





Finally I actually started cutting cleanly with the plasma cutter

 

 

Ha ha ha how did I not notice that ^


Look ok welds

 

Let me know that you guys think so far

Started the underside. First I cut out the spare tire area and then decided to move on for now.



Then went to the passenger jack point

Here is the first strip tacked in





Then I started sewing it in



Back side



Driver side not started yet

 

A few small updates and 1 picture. I finished the jack points and the spare tire well. m I have also preped the interior for the por 15 treatment I will probably get the done tomorrow

 

Lines are all new I checked them out and they look good.

 

Also, while you're under there... I noticed on my car that there is a big blob of sealant covering 2 holes where the rocker meets the rest of the frame, at the front of the rocker. Might be best to plug said holes (there's a couple more under there as well just can't quite remember where, and they're not rust holes on mine as they are WAY too uniform and smooth) with some spot welds as opposed to the sealant which we all know cracks, breaks, falls off, and lets water in sooner or later. Same goes for a couple small gaps where the lower parts of the quarters meet the rockers in the rear wheel wells.

 

POR 15 applied to interior

Floor


Passenger Side





Door edge
Before



After


Door Jam Driver



Interior of door Driver

 

Drivers Side Floor

 

Looks good, I have to do the same to my car.

 

hey midias, i live in greece NY, we should meet up sometime its nice to meet fellow enthuiast.

 

Nice I am always up for that I get together with local enthusiasts for car and motorcycle interests. There are a few V4 Bike people in the Rochester area I like to ride with. When I get it done we should get together. I live in Henrietta and work in the city.

 

Quick Update and Things I learned tonight

POR 15 will soak through a long sleeve shirt and stain your chest with every drop that falls off the bottom of the car. I now look like a pale white hairy leopard.

 

Are you applying the POR with a brush? I plan on using a roller on the bottom and a cheapo HVLP gun for the rest. As soon as I get some more supplies from HF and some decent weather for a couple of days.

Not to poke fun at you or anything, but I would have wire brushed some of the interior rust first (especially around the rear seat belt mounting hole in the first pic you have there) and ground down your welds a little bit before applying the POR 15. If not the grinding, then definitely the wire brush. Some of that scale will probably break loose and take the POR with it (which is why I'm going nuts under my car with my grinder and wire brush to get all the rust and scale off).

 

There is no scale that is just some really sticky crap that would not come off. I brushed all the scale off top and bottom. Then I prepped according to the por directions. As for the welds I ground them a little and left them ruff so the por would stick better I am not too woried about how they will look under a carpet.

Yes I used a brush a 1.5inch and a 3 inch

 

Did you also leave most of the carpet underlayment stuck to the sealing pads, or did you get it off somehow? I'm trying to get mine off. Not sure when my interior (with the rust holes that I have yet to patch and paint I haven't roughed yet) and underbelly (just burned out my grinder ) are going to be treated, but I should be getting started on the exterior soon. Although I just found out I need another driver's door...

 

I got a lot of it off with a map torch and a scraper the rest with a wire wheel. The rest I cut out when I cut out the drain plugs.