I removed the rear window trim and burnt out all the sealant. I have been contemplating on powdered coat but its nearly imposable to get all the sealant out with out acid dipping these... I keep telling my self its just a trim peace, Im not to worried about it i think just going to disc it down and use metal etching primmer.... Now what should i do for a top coat? looking for some rattle can that can survive the sun and other potential weather conditions... I think the factory just used a lacquer based paint i plan on some type of enamel based spray paint... kinda want it semi gloss so nothing to glossy... Ideas??! Needs to be durable!!

 

I saw an episode on horsepowertv a while back and they used I believe Duplicolor trim black paint......

 

The problem I had with using a disk was that the metal in mine has a gulley. You are correct that it is lacquer based from the factory. I am considering stripping the old paint and putting naval jelly on the rust spots to clean them up. I think this will be better because the disk may cause the metal to warp due to heat. That duplicolor trim paint seems to be the way to go, but I wonder how UV resistant it is.

 

Call your powdercoater- he may be able to give you some pointers. I was planning on removing mine, having them media blasted if that won't warp them and going with a powdercoat.
Ask him a) if he can get that gunk out with media blasting- baking soda or charcoal maybe- b) if he can powdercoat the OUTSIDE ONLY(a buildup of powdercoat on the inside may make them impossible to reinstall) and c) if he can do all this WITHOUT WARPING THEM.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/auto...tal-hatch.html

 

How about the adhesive? Just window adhesive? when i took it off it didn't seem the like stuff that's used on the windshields...

 

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I thought someone said that the early years had adhesive applied all the way around, and in the later years only had it applied to the ends?

 

all of the ones IV seen have it all around it

 

Remove molding
-Use an acetylene torch with a number two tip and start from top of left or right moldings and apply heat for a distance of 200mm (8") in a back and forth motion.
-Immediately grasp heated section with pliers and pull away from glass.
-repeat for remaining moldings

 

Install
-Apply clear urethane primer to glass
-Apply black urethane primer over same areas of glass. Allow primer to air dry for five minutes.
-Apply black urethane primer to inside molding channels. Allow primer to air dry for five minutes.

 

-Apply a 4.5 mm (3/16") bead of urethane to inside molding channels. Do not apply urethane for a distance of 25mm (1") from top ends of moldings.
-Escutcheon into top channel of right molding
-install left, right.
-Adjust holes in molding tabs to align with holes in glass
-Tap left, right molding with mallet to seat them on glass.
Inspect
-Inspect along radius to see that they are properly seated to the glass
-Apply tape over moldings every 200mm (8") to hold in place during curing. Allow 6 hours cure time.

 

Thanks! So i used a green disc to take all painted surfaces down to bare metal then just cleaned them up with some wax and grease remover, then sprayed a few light coats of self etching primer, then used the trim paint... im completely amazed at how great the trim peace look now. The paint was easy to lay down and smoothed it self out before drying it looks 10+ better then factory im pretty impressed... now will see how durable it is...

 

Update? I am at this point now in my build. Is paint holding up?

 

Its on the hatch glass now... i wish i would have did a light sand after i used the green disc to take all painted surfaces down to bare metal... some areas pulled up when i had tap going around the trim... most likely because it needed that extra bite from a some gritty sand paper ...

 

How does the paint look otherwise???

 

Looks ridiculously amazing! I'll snap some pics and post them sometime

 

Sweet dude I'm thinking about doing it....could the sanding be done by hand I'm afraid to use my 4 1/2 in grinder on them

 

Yes, but do you really want to spend 12 hours hand sanding? You can get the green style scotch bright discs for your 4 1/2 grinder... That's what i used... just single speed 4 1/2 grinder with a green disc... It will only take the paint off, it wont grind or take down the metal... took me about 10mins to do each trim peace ( left & right ) some areas you might have to get with sand paper but very very few! the green style disc im talking about looks like this but only this is a roll lock style...

The part number for the ones i used was (3M SandBlaster 9682)
but you'll only need the green disc not sure what the part number is for it individually