i was wondering about any ideas on my quarter it has 8 holesin it heres a link to pics of it http://imageshack.us/g/833/img0140w.jpg/

 

Time for a new quarter panel.

 

Yeah, thats some serious rust! Ill bet if you pull the fender you will see even more on the inside. Quarter panels arent that expensive--buy another one.

 

a used is 250 that out of my price range

 

i did weld up a the small holes

 

Check around, $250 is NOT a good price for a used quarter panel. The pull-a-part here charges less than $30 for them, provided that you cut it out yourself.

 

looks like someone already paved over the rust once before. chances are youll start tearing into the quarter and find a LOT more rust. take a battery powered sawzall to the junk yard and get to cutting. youll probably be able to walk out +1 QP and - 1 $50 bill.

 

Or Find a more solid shell. There are plenty of solid 3rd gens out there for next to nothing. If the quarter is this bad, whats the inner fenders, floors, etc... look like?

 

good point. id start probing aroundor more rust.when its that bad in one spot, its probably just as bad in others. and if somone already paved over that rust, what other suprises await.....

 

the floor was shot but repaired it and fiberglassed it and the nearest piy yard by me is 400+ miles away

 

wait, was the floor repaired with fiber glass, or was the metal repaired and then fiberglassed over?

if the floor was repaired with fiberglass, then that car needs to go to the crusher. its a unibody, and the floor is part of the structural integrity of the car. fiberglass doesnt even come close to cutting it as a suitable replacement for the floor pan metal.

 

I was about to say the same thing Travis just said.
Any floor repairs need to be done with the same metal, not a flat piece, those ridges and stuff in floors are there for structural purposes.
Fiberglass offers no strentgh and support.

 

i first shaped and welded in 18 gauge steel and the fiberglassed it with 24 ounce fiberglass

 

whyd u fiberglass over the metal? it serves no purpose and will crack and separate from the metal in no time. and did you run beads in the patch panels?

 

no i dont own a bead roller the metal is covering the rusty spots and were the floor was completely gone and patch the metal i put in help over 250 pounds without a problem fiberglass was meant to keepit from rusting at the top

 

did you cut out the rusty metal or just weld a patch over it?

fiberglass wont stop anything from rusting, and the metal may hold 250 pounds of lateral force, but its the torsional forces that will tear the patch (and possibly a larger part of the floor) apart if it isnt bead rolled. theres a reason the floors were beaded in the first place. 1 or 2 small unbeaded patches are fine. but when youre replacing good sized chunks of the floor with flat sheet, youre just asking for trouble.

everything im hearing you did sounds like the wrong way to do things......no offense.

 

haveing a sheet of metal is better then no floor most of the floor just needed small little patchs i cant afford to do it the right way heres a pic of the bad spot before and after http://imageshack.us/g/440/img0079sa.jpg/

 

Let the fender rust - that car is done.

 

with a hole that size, and you not having funds, i agree. if i were you id start saving every spare penny and start the hunt for a roller. i guarantee that rust hole in the floor pan is just the beginning of youre rust woes.

if you have the desire, determination, and pockets, id say save it. but if you even have the tiniest doubt, time to move on....

 

it may not be up to you standards but its my car so you dont like the way im doing work on it u should shut it not u travis i spent 600 on the car it its a first car i like to also like bring cars and bikes basicly back from the dead

 

the front end is in good condition the only problem spots with the sheet metal in the quaterrs and floor i looked over the rest of the car and not rusted through the car runs and drives straight and great

 

you may not see it, but its there. if the rust is that bad in the quarter and the floor, its worse in places you cant see. if you love the car great, youre in for a long road full of a lot of metal replacing and welding and youll be pouring every spare cent you have into this car for a long while.

 

the car isnt going on the road till like july to august i had the nose completely apart so i no that part of the car is good

 

found out its not that hard to make patch panels up took me 5 min to make 1 up for the piece thats hanging off including the body line

 

Go ahead and yell at the people that are trying to help you, save money, heartache, and possible injury.

I paid $800 for my IROC, drove 3 hours one way, to get it and drove it home. Beacuse it did not have rust. Plenty of cars closer, but I wanted a good solid shell to dump money into.

Like I said before, these cars do not have a frame, the unibody is the structure, all thouse dips, grooves, bends in the sheetmetal are there to give support. Without that strong shell, you have nothing to keep the car from twisting, bending, and crumbling up in the event of an accident.

I realise you already have the car, and have some attachment to it, but its not a 67 camaro, or a 55 chevy, or a 32 ford, you know, a car that is rare to find in solid restorable form.

3rd gens are still a dime a dozzen, and a much more suitable shell can be found.

 

in order for me to drive to get a rust free shell i need a license and a way to drag it home

 

all the thirdgens by me are rust buckets the salt water in the air destroys them

 

If you don't have a licence take your time to fix it right.
Buy yourself something else to drive to work/school when you get a license like Cavalier.
My Camaro has a big hole in the driverside floor board. Most of it is gone. I do not have the money to fix it now, but a welder is in the works, then the floor pan.
In the mean time I have the 03 in my sig to drive, once my mom buys a car I also have the 96 in my sig. So other then the car getting worse, no hurry here. I bought it as a toy and it will always be a toy. Allbeit an expensive toy, but a toy non the less.

 

ill probably end up repairing it after i eventually get a job and have enough money to do it correctly but till then this will have to do. for a welder kcb northern tools is having a sale on hobarts 125 for 319 free shipping and a cart or the little 90 amp welder from harbor frieght works great thats what ive been using for a year now. i baught the car to be a daily driver when i get my license

 

Ahhhhhhh....................A dollar and a dream!

 

If you can't drive now why do you need a it will work for now fix?
I know Northern tool has welders, my borther in law bought one and is currently building a trailer with it. My dad is trying to take me to the store which is in driving distance from my house and his.
But I will also add without looking at them I do not like my brother in laws welder (saw this one in person). It is a mig which I want, but he does not have gas sheilding which I want. So I have limited myseld to spending more money.
But in the end I will have a better welder. It may come from Northern tool, may come from Miller or lincoln either way I will have a better welder.
Some things are worth the wait.
Fixing your car being one of them.
If you can't drive it now wait to fix it right, don't do it twice and have to redo it and have to do more.
My Ford has been sitting since I bought it in 05, my Camaro for 2 years. My Ford as far as I can tell quit running in 76.
Both need alot of body work. Both have begun to have the body taken apart.
But I am in no rush, partialy because I have no welder, and have alot of other things to spend money on, such as my 6 year old daughter.
The truck has waited since 76, of that 5 years for me.
Point being don't rush it. If you do you will have more work in the long run such as my car, should have been fixed before I bought it.
Along with that, you can get to the point it well beyond the worth of the car to fix.
A floor pan alone is really reason enough to buy another 3rd gen. Cost wise. If it needs a floor pan it needs more. By the time you get done fixing everything you could have bought a good roller or driveable car.

 

if i new how much damage there was to this car wen i looked at it i would not have baught it all i saw in damage was a smashed bumper and a dented rear quarte the other rear quarter im repairing correctly with a patch panel on the lower rear of the pass side ive been making other patches based off the 1 patch panel i have. oh yea forgot to mention it wasnt accually my decision to do the floor like that my father would not let me spend the 600 for the floor pans or the 250 for the quarter

 

If you don't have a license, buy an import, that way when ( not if) you get pulled over and the police take your car ...it won't be any big loss.

But I agree with them about the floorboards, the ONLY way you can possibly get by with BS floorboard repairs, is to install subframe connectors, and possibly at the least an 8pt rollcage. ( the cage isn't a necessity but with the floorboards in the condition you stated ...subframe connectors are.
The best advice I have heard for you... find a rust free third gen. ( I found mine in auto reparables, it needed some engine work that was ridiculously easy, so I lucked out.

 

my car isnt on the road its in pieces repairing it.

 

i was thinking of subframe connector the way every1descriping how do i install them and why do ppl say the torque would riip the floor a 2.73 rear end doesnt have much torque compared to other camaros

 

There are two different types of subframe connectors, bolt-in and weld-in but after bolting-in can later also be welded.
Too many companies make them to list all the companies, contact either hawks third gen, jegs.com summit racing, or other companies. Project, maverick, skeletor ( sp ) or a few others might know a few other sites.

 

its not the torque from the rear, its the twisting from everyday driving then will let those patches twist, and ultimately fail, since they have no lateral support built into them (thats what the beads are stamped all over the stock floor pan for). buying subframe connecters at this point is a waste, you need to fix the rust correctly before you try slaping performance upgrades on there.

 

its one of those i would if i could but i cant situations

 

True that subframe connectors ARE considered a "performance upgrade "
With a weakened unibody, it wouldn't make it perfect, but would make it somewhat more stable.
( until he pulls a Fred Flintstone on the road. )

 

the bs floor was meant so i wouldnt befred flinstone

 

if i was to eventually get repro floor pans how would i install them

 

you cut out the stock floor pans, then weld the new ones in their place.

 

do you have to reinforce the car temporarly?

 

should put it on jack stands, and do 1 side at a time. reinforcing isnt necessary that way, but cant hurt.

 

He man i know this is an old thread but i have some rust on my 92 RS and i am having to kinda make do with what i can afford. i have no welding experience but dont let everyone tell you that your dead wrong. I have too many people telling me i have an old tired rust bucket but i still work on it. anyways try looking at rickscamaros they have replacement paint to color pre primered panels. almost anything u and i could need and they are fairly cheap. front QPs are like 60 and rear QPs are around 125-150 (havent been in the book for awhile). hit up a local collision center if you can and rack their brains its what they are for. Good luck and get her on the road they are good cars and worth the money.

 

the quarter in the pics i managedto repair im going and getting another pass quarter from a junkyard in a couple weeks since the pass is mangled and rotted worse then that one was

 

hey bro, just finished putting in both floor pans in my 91 camaro rs, wasnt easy and cheap but i did it, with the help of one of my friends. it just needs some touch up welds, but if your gonna do ur floors i suggest ordering them first, and dont cut the rear seat bowl pans, cause nobody sells em. now im stuck making fab pans, so bye bye rear seats.

 

i repaired my flloors the rear seat bowls i have set thats gonna go in my car enventually that i got from someone on here cutting up there car