i just recently painted my 88 iroc with summits line of urethane paint. i used everything from summit,primer,paint,clear,and all the components for each.

color is viper red. it turned out very well. cover really nicely. my neighbor which paints a good bit of cars every year,says it covered and finished out just as good as the omni finishes from ppg. only thing we could say negative about it was when we was spraying the clear. make sure you have good ventalation..... this stuff was something else fumes wise. laid on really well,just was pretty nasty fumes. but he said most clears are the worst for the fumes. ill try to take some pics,and post them up here within the next couple days. but for those thinking about painting there cars soon, you might want to give it a shoot.for the price,i personally dont think it can be beat. i had just under $400 in my paint supplies.

 

i used summits line for my car as well. i went from the stock victory red to huggar orange. its a great paint for the diy'er. there a tv show called trucks!, that comes on spike tv that did a project truck in summits paint as well and gave a great review of it.

 

hi travis. is the car on your avatar, hugger orange? i used viper red,and in some lights looks very good,and others kinda get an orangish look. not bad,just unexpected. but i cant say enough about their paint products,everything covered really nicely,and laid out like they should. we are going to paint my girlfriends 88 fox body in spring with their paint as well. kinda cant wait to paint something again....lol getting the bug.

 

nah, thats the car back when it was still mostly stock. stock gm red paint.

 

Pics? I Have heard great things about summits line of paint. I have some pics of a couple of cars painted with summit bc/cc and then cleared with their high solids clear. Some say its Kirker some say its not. You can call summit and they will tell you who makes it. Either way everyone says it sprays nice and levels awesome. Buffs out real well too. Not sure about longevity and shrinkage ect.

 

those cars look great.
and i agree. i cant say enough good things about it. but of course i also cant touch on how good it will hold up. but hey,even if you get 10 years or so out of it. for the that price,and a little bit of work,can have another fresh paint job.

 

finally had a nice day out to get some pics.... here they are.

 

Very nice, I like the color. Did you guys put enough coats of clear on to knock down that orange peel? It will look 100X better once that is done and finish polished.

 

yea, there is 3 coats of clear on there. i still need to cut and buff. havent ever really did that by myself. so ill get some help with that. but it turned out pretty good,i only had one run in it,and thats on the drivers side b pillar i guess. right behind the door,where it rolls into the roof.

 

Did you use the high solids clear or the medium solids clear. Just for personal reference.

 

i used the high solids overall clear. they have an overall,and a spot clear. spots used for smaller projects so they state??? i dont really understand why there would be a difference. just mix less??? but anyways. the clear is something else. very toxic,make sure you have plenty,and i mean plenty ventelation for spraying this. the paint wasnt to bad,but the clear was terrible with the fumes.

 

only problem with this paint is that it is already reduced so you aren't getting an actual "quart" or "gallon" of paint. Most economy lines of paint from the paint store like Shopline or Nason paint run 30-40 a quart unreduced and they can reduce 2:1. It's a nice setup for the diyer but you can get a little better deal at a paint shop.

 

Not sure where you got that info bud, but their 2-stage urethane system base coat mixes 2:1 and clear mixes 4:1. Just like any other 2 stage econ paint. Nason which is just like any other bottom line eco paint (kirker, shopline ect.) goes for about 58$ a qt in just about any color red. That is about 230-250$ a gallon not including the price for medium solids clear which is about 80$ a gallon. For the same price from summit you can get a high solids.

 

summits paint isnt prereduced at all.

 

yep, summit paint was very thick, it says you just need to add the activator,and further reduction wasnt nessasary,however we did reduce it further,it sprayed alot better. i bought the viper red kit which was 1 gal of paint,and 1 quart of activator,and 1 quart of reducer. i put 3 coats of paint on this car,and i still have enough paint left to probably make at least another half a gal. to 3/4 gallon when it was all mixed up. to me,and most diyers you simply cant beat the price, just make sure you order what you want,you cant ship this stuff back,unless you know someone who can ship hazardous materials.... that the only downfall i have seen,that and if you run out of something its going to take a couple days to get some more.. just make sure you get enough of what you need.

 

I had a rather disheartening meeting with the local PPG store… It’s way over my budget even for Omni on my bird.

So, I am going to go this route. And see more firsthand experience in here than anywhere else.

What primer did you guys use on the bumpers? I called and talked to two or three different summit reps, and get answers from “they won’t work” to “what is a bumper”… very disappointing.

I have a friend that agreed to professionally paint and prep my bumpers & spoiler with PPG, and get them ready for white sealer and base-clear. Good idea, or bad?

I see in their instructions for the DTM primer, you should use a “self-etching” primer, but they don’t offer one. One dude I talked to said just to use it… What do you guys recommend?

Also, how is the base & clear holding up on the bumpers & over all car?

Or… Am I overthinking it again??

Thanks for the help, guys.

 

Primer for the bumpers, was the same as for the car. Feather fill g2 ltgry stripped down to bare plastic, bully dog adhesion promoter and then primed/sealed with featherfill g2

Prep the bumpers off the car, and paint them on the car. Much easier they like to bend a lot and play games. Silly to ruin your finish when you are installing them.

Don't need self etching primer. Use adhesion promoter on the bumpers, self etching primer is used for any spots of bare metal over 1 sq inch.

Overall holding holding up real well, car has been out in the sun and elements for over a year now. What is your fascination with the bumpers? Paint it like you would any other part of the car with the exception of adhesion promoter. If you had spider cracks they will come back unless you sand them completely away before paint.

Sprayed my base and clear with 1.4mm tip.

Here is a recent pic from few weeks ago, about 13 months since paint.

 

Thanks for the info. This is my first ever time messing with plastic parts, so I'm nervous, an want to do it right. And, I over think stuff...

VERY nice car! I hope mines 1/2 as cool... And now I want shaved handles!

 

blackbmagic ,

So the red car is Summit.
Your car came out looking great ,and I love the color. Generally IMO its hard to pull off the completely shaved look but you did it easily . . Love to see one or two more photos please. A shot from the rear would be nice.

 

ive just recently used summits black epoxy primer on my 89 the stuff is very nice , and even passed the paint thinner/gas test

i was a lil worried that the summit epoxy would be very hard to sand but it sands very nicely , right now i have 2 coats on the car that im in the middle of block sanding , it goes back for 2 more coats in 2 weeks

i was going to use the summit black base coat with some blue pearl mixed in but decided to just use spi pure black base and spi clear , as they are only slightly more money and come very very highly recomended

 

dont mind the hood as its tweaked and i never fully preped it since im throwing it away , we just sprayed it so it would match colorwise for the time being

 

So how long are you waiting to apply the clear or is that some kind of satin finish ?

 

thats the summit epoxy primer

im spraying a pure black base with blue pearl over that

with the pearl and black base i was told to spray black primer

 

Nice, I can’t wait to see the finished project. When it’s finished maybe you could post a total on the cost in materials. Just to give us an idea on what to expect when using those brands
What type of hood are you planning on buying ? A 2in cowl ?
What wheel have you planed to use ?.

 

will do with just paints and chemicals and pearl powder im it it somewere around 650$'s

the summit expoxy kit i bought was 111$'s for 2 sprayable gallons

ill post up an itemized total when i finish the whole job

 

4 inch steel cowl

im keeping the centerlines that are on the front i have a full set of those and they polish up really nice

might pick up some prostars as well

 

I used summit single stage low voc black. worked nice! I will most deff use again!

 

Took the plunge last night, and went through summit. My buddy is still going to help out with the bumpers & small parts, but I'm doing all the metal. Going to do Viper red, and shave the door moldings & antena, and I think I'm going to use fourth gen handles painted body color to clean it up a little more, but without much work. Oh, and a glasstek 4" hood.


I'll post up some progress & results.... Wish me luck...







starting with this:



engine shot, 'cause i like this pic:

 

Before & after summit 2 stage viper red, a crap ton of elbow grease, glasstek hood, and some other parts:





No... it is not photo shopped

 

its kirker paint. I have both paint charts here, the colors are identical. I really like the stuff.

 

Just a little durability update:

The summit paint is holding up really well. the front bumpers is showing some issues, but I believe that was because there is a lot of filler in it, and I bashed the bottom of it on the ramp in the trailer loading it a few times.

I've found lemon pledge is my new best friend. I spray some on the quarter panels when I get to the track, and all the rubber wipes right off. And if there's any on the body, I put a little on, and it lifts the rubber right off the paint.

Don't be afraid of the summit paints.... its the real deal.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.n...04ba72dfac8bee

 

Might have to look into it...

 

It is the quality of the "prep" and the "skill level" of the painter using the right equipment that makes the difference.

For those prices even if you have to pay some one to do the spraying your way ahead.

If you don't want to spend the big bucks then it looks like Summit paint will work.