Well I got my T/A fenders primered and put on the car. The problem I'm having is the lower body line won't line up for some reason on the drivers side. To give you some background on this car when I got it the lower fender mounting tabs looked like this...



Which of course made the fenders bow out. Well I got that pulled down as best I could and the old fenders didn't stick out anymore. However I am noticing that with the T/A fenders I bought, at least the one on the DS, the gap between the door and the fender is off at the top and that the lower body line doesn't line up.



Is it possible that this fender is not usable? Should I have the hood and it's hinges off the car to properly line up the fenders? What would be the best approach to this problem? I've read through a few other threads and the consensus seems to be that I just need to keep yanking on it until it fits right. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Everyone!

 

Is that fender OEM or aftermarket? I had to cut the inner rear reinforcement out and move it to get my A/M fender to line up right. Not sure if the aftermarket F-bird fenders are the same or not.

 

I looked and on the back there is a sticker from an aftermarket parts dealer on there. Can't remember which one but it wasn't classic and it wasn't year one or hawks.

The fender not being OEM didn't occur to me as a possible issue until now but it does make sense. Both fenders came off of an 84 T/A so I assumed they were original given the condition they were in. I thought the sticker on the back was from a used parts dealer but when I looked again I didn't see any OEM stampings on it like on my other one.

I do believe the fbird fenders are the same. After reading through other threads I realized You and I are not the only ones with alignment issues with aftermarket body parts. I wonder if I could remove the rear inner fender support from my old DS fender and put it on this one. Think that would have any effect? Thanks man.

 

My lower fender tab was bent so bad from jacking damage that it had to be pulled with a frame machine (it was the only way to generate enough downward force) to get it straight. Not sure if thats your problem, just throwing it out there as a thought.

 

Matt, it wouldn't matter much who the manufacturer is, they're all about the same. I used a spotweld drill bit and used the brace that was in the A/M fender. Only about 6 welds or so, then it's put it where you want. You can drill out the welds completely but it'll be harder to weld back neatly. Small visegrips can be used through the fender liner to get it to stay put while you tack it.

 

Similar issue here.