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You will have tons of lttle marks in the paint whenever some thing touches it for the first month, the paint is verry soft and does not cure for close to 300 hours. You could have gone to Sherwin Williams and got a gallon of single stage automotive paint and a cheap gun from Harbor Frieght and than had a decent paint job. We use these products because they last, we use reducer so the paint wont shrink up during the cure process, we use hardner to stop the paint from geeting a simple human nail mark when it is touched 3 days later. Your choice on the paint but I never encourage anyone to rattle can or roll paint on their cars, it is one of the worst things you can do. If you are going to do stripes than wait at least a month or you will be peeling that red paint off when you remove the tape.
ahem, IF you buy your rustoleum in a can (not spray bomb) you can add hardner to it. THEN it dries faster and way harder than what you can get from a spray bomb, just pointing that out. (and clear be damned!)
The car looks good to me! I also used spray paint on my 89 GTA, but only primer/sealer to keep the hood from rusting. The paint on my car is faded and the clear cLear coat is gone so I plan on sanding down the rough parts where bare metal and surface rust is showing and painting it with primer/sealer spray paint.
The car looks good to me! I also used spray paint on my 89 GTA, but only primer/sealer to keep the hood from rusting. The paint on my car is faded and the clear cLear coat is gone so I plan on sanding down the rough parts where bare metal and surface rust is showing and painting it with primer/sealer spray paint.
Primer won't stop bare metal from rusting for long. You can't see it with the naked eye but its porous so water can sneak in if you have the car exposed to the elements. Primer and sealer are important but they're meant to be topcoated, thats what gives it the real protection from rust. No to mention the stuff you can get in a spay can is pretty low quality
Well for now until I can get it painted I have to do that. The hood was exposed because the paint was faded so we sanded off all the surface rust (nothing too bad) and coated with with about 3/4 coats of primer/sealer. I just want the car to be ok from rust until I can get it re-sprayed. In about a year from now.
Wow that was a fun read. Oh by the way I have owned a 69 Z28. And I have driven several L98 Camaros. No way a stock L98 IROC is going to beat a 69 Z28 in a drag race.
Wow that was a fun read. Oh by the way I have owned a 69 Z28. And I have driven several L98 Camaros. No way a stock L98 IROC is going to beat a 69 Z28 in a drag race.
Not unless it was a 'ringer' car, aka the full Z/28 TransAM racer in factory paint disguise.
The regular Z28's were typically mid 14's at about 95mph. About dead on even with a stock L98 in good shape. Early L98s were slightly slower in the mid to high 14s, but the later speed density cars were more powerful.
The Factory Freak L98s are low 14 second cars.
It would be a fairly even race between a 1st gen Z28 and a L98. Winner would likely go to the better driver.
Wow that was a fun read. Oh by the way I have owned a 69 Z28. And I have driven several L98 Camaros. No way a stock L98 IROC is going to beat a 69 Z28 in a drag race.
Really? The '69 Z28 was a 15.1 second 1/4 mile car and the 0-60 time is in the 7 second range. The IROC-Zs were at 6.6 second 0-60, and upper 14s in the 1/4 mile. These numbers were published by Motor Trend for both models.
I'll take the good ol Earl Scheib paint job. "In by 9, out by 5. I'll paint any car for 29.95!"
But in all seriousness... I don't like spray paint jobs either, but for the time being my hood needed something to cover the rusted spots up until I can afford to get a proper paint job. Should I top coat the primer/sealer ( http://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-.../primer-sealer) I already have on the hood? I just want to protect it from the elements (I don't have the option of a garage to put the car in).
Here is the simple primer job I did on my GTA. About 40 bucks in primer/sealer and sand paper. I know there is probably streaks showing, but in all honestly I just wanted to protect the hood until I can get the car painted (other bare metal and surface rust spots will soon be given the same treatment).
So should I put a top coat of some kind of paint on it for now?
I bought the car off a kid going to collage. He just wanted to get rid of it since he got himself a new WS6 Trans Am. So I was able to buy it for $1600.
Last edited by bryan623; Nov 7, 2014 at 11:59 AM.
Reason: bad links
For those that are thinking about or have already spray painted there car I suggest going to a Maaco or other shop like it and start talking with them about what you can do to prep the car before bringing it to them.
All Im saying is spend a few hundred on a paint job that you have prepped the car for. Even if its Maaco.
The reason I suggest Maaco is because of our few options when it comes to paint. Its either Maaco or spend the BIG $$$ for a Base/Clear at a professional's shop.
I know there are guys out there that have successfully painted there own cars with a gun and are good at it.
Maybe they can tell you what the bare minimum it will cost for all of the equipment/paint/etc.
Until then I have this.
Last edited by Ron U.S.M.C.; Nov 7, 2014 at 07:26 PM.
Thats fine then it will have to come off. So long as it protects the hood (and other parts from rust) until I can afford to get it done right that's all I care about. Nothing else matters.
Thats fine then it will have to come off. So long as it protects the hood (and other parts from rust) until I can afford to get it done right that's all I care about. Nothing else matters.
I totally understand. In the long run it will all work out.
Last edited by Ron U.S.M.C.; Nov 7, 2014 at 07:27 PM.
Thats fine then it will have to come off. So long as it protects the hood (and other parts from rust) until I can afford to get it done right that's all I care about. Nothing else matters.
If that is spray can primer, all it's going to do is soak up moisture and ACCELERATE rust...
If that is spray can primer, all it's going to do is soak up moisture and ACCELERATE rust...
It's not jus primer. It's primer/sealer and so far neither side has rusted. I check both sides often, and so far they're free of rust. And it's sat a d been driven in the rain. I wash it about once a week to keep the dirt off it.
Dead thread, so what? Google turned up way more results than I expected, just searching rattle can paint jobs on tgo, and this isn't the one I remembered, it had good results, like so good you'd think it was a $5K pro job, but I read this one anyway, took me a while, and this one suits my purposes even better.
Look at the attached pic of my car now, and then try to claim it wouldn't look better with any rattle can paint job at all than it does now. It couldn't look worse unless some kids tagged it with graffiti.
I have a power orbital sander, I have a case of WalMart's cheapest white enamel, another of medium blue to go over the white, and another of clear to go over the blue. I'll have one weekend to do it, so Saturday will be prep, Sunday will be spray, wait, spray, wait, spray, remove the masking tape.
Dead thread, so what? Google turned up way more results than I expected, just searching rattle can paint jobs on tgo, and this isn't the one I remembered, it had good results, like so good you'd think it was a $5K pro job, but I read this one anyway, took me a while, and this one suits my purposes even better.
Look at the attached pic of my car now, and then try to claim it wouldn't look better with any rattle can paint job at all than it does now. It couldn't look worse unless some kids tagged it with graffiti.
I have a power orbital sander, I have a case of WalMart's cheapest white enamel, another of medium blue to go over the white, and another of clear to go over the blue. I'll have one weekend to do it, so Saturday will be prep, Sunday will be spray, wait, spray, wait, spray, remove the masking tape.
I won't ridicule you for doing so, but i can tell you I've owned a third gen that the previous owner rattle canned and it looked like ****.
If you've got a compressor I'd def recommend using tractor paint over rattle can.
Hi Cosmick. Go for it! You have nothing to lose by trying except for the effort. I have been doing stuff like that for years. It works. I can paint bc cc too. I have used walmart clear but it has a tendency to yellow or white on you if you get it too thick. Rustoleum crystal clear works better than any spray can clear I have ever used BUT it is too thick when sprayed heavy enough to flow smooth. I just finished spraying the rustoleum over regular autom
otive basecoat. After wet sanding and buffing it looks very nice. It would mirror shine if I used higher grit paper but I only used 1000 and soapy water. Plenty smooth to match factory shinyness. The rustoleum crystal clear runs easily so if you use it don't try to make it flow or it runs off on badly. Practice spray it and you will see. Oh yes, get it from the house paint section at walmart. The automotive section has the same product in a different can but it costs more money. Here is the neon I painted with it. The front fender, driver door and driver rear door are what I painted. Base was normal automotive basecoat. I saved a ton on materials by using the rustoleum. Most of a paint job is in the prep work. If nothing else the experience gained will be woth the effort. I've been in the car business for a long time. Used this sort of stuff on my own vehicles too. I'm going to paint my 89 z this way. Have fun with it!
The 5 minute paint job is what happened to mine just before I got it. The first time I saw it, it was black, not gray, but not glossy, and there was overspray on the windows and taillight lenses.
