Nobody wants to **** up their car like the OP did, blackcharles.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by haps
Please try to refrain from giving any "advise" please. Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 91 Droptop
You could not be more wrong, you roll your paint on and keep telling yourself that, good luck


I'm sorry for taking over the thread, maybe I took these 2 post too far. You don't know me and you have certainly not seen my cars. I did go a bit too far though.

 

I might rattlecan my bay, but will probably be done with cheaper automotive paint from an auto supply shop.

Painting a car can be a very expensive thing. Material costs alone can skyrocket very quickly when you start going after high end paints. And the equipment needed to get that high end finish can be expensive too.

So there are a few questions you need to ask yourself before starting in on one of these endeavors.

What am I starting with?

What is my budget?

What results do I expect out of it?

_______________________

If you are starting out with something like this then well, even a $40 paint job is better: (factory paint BTW, go de-laminiation. The looks I received in the car, well its was disheartening. Either I was going to set the car on fire or at least fix it for the short term


Like alot of people, I wasn't willing to spend alot of money on the car. I had about $1200. However that $1200 could not solely go to paint! I needed the following: 2 doors, 1 hood, front bumper, front GFX, rockers. (I also ran across a T56 from a 93 Z28 C4C car for $216, a WORKING T56. Couldn't pass that up!) So there is less than $1000 for this paint.

Yeah, I know it just got uglier than it was when it was all one peeling/chipping color.


That ate up bit of money right there.

Then I needed materials to do the bodywork myself. My friend and I drove the car up to his fathers who painted cars for many years. He directed us, put the tools in our hands and guided us. But we did all the work, and I bought all of the materials. His comments about my car was this:




Thats true. I like DRIVING It. Which means rock chips, road trips, dust, dirt, grime, rain....etc. I'm the kind of guy who'll walk up to both cars in the morning and think "I wanna drive the fun car." So I'll drive the fun car. In traffic, next to a diesel truck.

So, I did the body work to save myself some money, but I didn't have a place to do the painting. And my friends father was out of the business so he didn't have a place I could actually spray the car.

So off the car went to MAACO for a Single stage urethane job with the mixed 50/50 clearcoat for about $700. Would I recommend this paint for long term? No, its too soft. And I don't expect it to last.

But honestly, for what I want out of the car, I'm HAPPY with the paintjob it has. I couldn't stand driving around in the the white trash, peeling junker factory paint.

Before:

After:

Where's Waldo?


How I "store" the car for winter without a garage:


And a few years later. The front part of the bumperette came off, the sticky tape didn't hold.


The end result is how much are you willing to spend on the car. $$$ does have an affect on the end results. Doing things yourself can save you money, but crap materials are crap materials.

Don't trash other people's cars because they couldn't afford to spend the big bucks. Or perhaps their reasons for owning the car are different than yours.

Me? I want to drive it, I want to thrash it on a track somewhere. I pay to play and I've broken stuff doing it. But I fix it and move on. My car isn't worth a $5000 paint job.

 

macco paint can last a long time if u care for it
this is a customers car we done at macco for 400 bucks few years back still looks this good today






neglect the paint and it will turn to a pastel color within a year

 

I've had a thirdgen painted by Macco and I agree it turned out good. You get what you pay for but I can't complain

 

Its not so much the color, but more how hard the paint is. Its a pretty soft paint and on a normal car a rock might chip into the clear, or maybe into the base. But with the urethane that same rock tends to chip down to the metal.

Its just something I've noticed and kind of expected from reading up on them before i had it painted. I didn't expect the same kind of durability as a BC/CC factory job.

 

agreed the only thing nice about the single stage stuff is its easier to touch up versus a bc/cc

my rs was painted to macco before i got it and the paint did chip easy, but i put my car threw hell and back, but for the price of a macco paint job u really cant go wrong if u care for it.

once a year macco does 1/2price specials so 200 bucks could get u a decent paint job thats roughly dbl what rustoleum would cost u or even less then dbl of rolling on any paint.


in my case the nearest macco was 350miles away so i rolled on the rustoleum knowing i was going to strip it off to get a bc/cc paint job.


the key with macco is prep the car urself

 

And remove all of your GFX, as well as lights.

Dont' trust them to mask very well.

When I got my car back the had hit it with a DA and didn't clean the rear bumper properly before paint causing a was of paint to get stuck in the pontiac lettering. I complained to the shop, and later submitted a complaint to the office. In the end I wasn't able to get them to resolve it.

So just remember, the people at Maaco, no matter what they tell you, they don't give a crap about your car, and the guy painting it is just a warm body to run a spray gun. Its in your best interests to make sure as much work gets for them because they will not do well on the small items.

 

very true ,ive goten cars back from them with paint on the tires, they wont do the extra lil things that a real body shop will to make the job perfect.

we send all our cars that we get painted at macco ready to go, anything that should be taken off or stripped is.

if u just take a thirdgen to macco as is they will cover the headlights and paint around them, same with the tailights etc

 

whats everyones opinion on clearing over spray paint, with automotive clear? And clearing over a single stage maacco job, would that increase durability to a respectable amount?

 

Everything I've read says clear coating over a single stage urethane has adhesion problems.

If you are going to try and clear it, just go with a 2 stage system from the get go.

 

You are trying to clear over enamel

 

I spent more than $40.00 on tape and sand paper.

 

the point that I was making is that if all you spent on paint is $40 (even if it was slightly more), I wouldn't worry too much about how it comes out. I don't care the cost of sand paper and filler because it dose not matter. I'll stand by that.

 

Oh really? Been painting many cars without masking tape and sand paper lately? How about some sort of wax remover to prep the surface with? Mineral Spirits/paint thinner to get overspray off the windows? I've got bad news for you. If you're not doing all of the above, you're making a paint job that already doesn't last, much worse.

 

like i said, most of you are getting the wrong idea. don't take this so far. If your paint only cost $40, I don't care how much you spent on anything else. your covering all your hard work with cheap paint (meaning sand paper and other materials). It will look good for the moment and thats fine if it's not going to be a long term solution.

I should know, I did a cheap paint job on mine

Here it is a few weeks after it was painted. Was vary shiny and I was happy as a clam.





Here it is quite a while later (not sure how long, but just under 1 yr). It still looks good, but lost the "depth". Looks like a satin or "egg shell" white paint. I did all this cheap with a hvlp.

 

here is a shot of the cheap primer $22. This is the tractor primer btw...





I sprayed my underbody with $20 paint called "Zero Rust" and rustoleum rattlecans
After that I sprayed some truck bedliner called "raptor liner" $100

 

My underbody still looks nice, but the cheap paint I used didn't hold up well in sunlight and started to look dull. So I sanded the whole car back down to bare metal again. That was fine with me because I never planned to keep the paint anyway, it was just a temp cheap fix. I have been told that if I would have wet sanded cleared the car a week after it had been painted, it still could look good....

I shaved my door handles and a few other places. I was only going to spray those places, but for $54 I was able to paint the whole car.

I'm not a fan of rattlecans, but I used more than my share and I also used HVLP with cheap paint. It just didn't last, but still looks much better than when I first got the car.

I took the whole thing back down to bare metal, she's getting painted with DuPont soon.

 

I guess my biggest problem with this thread is the negative opinions from folks that never did a cheap paint job. Not everyone has the upfront cash or is willing to sit on a project for an extended period of time until its painted. Some ppl don't have a compressor, or the proper outlet to plug it into. Where I live I cannot get single stage paint.

The list of reasons go's on and on.

My land lord wanted me to move the car AFTER I took it apart, I was not ready to paint it yet. I knew it wasn't right when I started, but I was in a rush and still happy with the results and if I had to, I would do it again.

 

The funny part is how much detail you put into taking it all a part and the undercarriage, figured you would just go with a PPG or Nason single stage and be done with it

 

I think the negative reviews are flooding in because the OP seemed to be showing off his poor paint job (and I mean quality). His paint job was absolutely nothing to be proud of, sort of a keep it to yourself sort of thing. We don't like it, so don't show it off to us. It is not an accolade. He's like a dog that comes up to you with one of your dead chickens in its mouth, wanting praise for its kill. And all you are thinking is, "You lousy good for nothing dog!" No praise given. Only admonishment.

 

I called just about everywhere and could not find a lot of the stuff I would normally use. Single stage paint was taken off the shelf nearly everywhere at the same time! NOW there are some low VOC variants, but at the time... nobody would sale me single stage paint. I tried to order online and nobody would ship.

The tractor paint was the only single stage I could find (I think the tractor supply in NoCal took it off the shelf as well), I would have paid more... it happened to be cheap.

Truck bedliner + misc rattlecans - $100
tractor paint $54
Primer $20
sanding disks (drill) $8
painters tape $4

 

The only thing he could possibly be showing off is the price tag. I'm almost positive the reason there is so much negativity is because the OP didn't do something a certain way. Honestly, it shouldn't matter what someone else does to their car, because at the end of the day that's all it is, THEIR car.

 

I'm going to weigh in here again due to some recent experience I picked up. I'm tinkering with some bondo on my truck and didn't want to leave it exposed to the weather overnight. I didn't feel like mixing paint and getting the gun dirty, and it was getting dark so I just grabbed a can of Krylon Rust Tough "enamel" paint. I put a light coat on just to keep the moisture out, you could still see thru it. NEVER AGAIN. After wasting several PSA discs trying to sand it off, I stripped it with "aircraft stripper" and only got about half of it off. It destroyed the epoxy that I already had on the door in the process. Today it only took two 80 grit PSA pads on my DA to get almost all the rest of it off. One more pad should get it and the rest of the epoxy. Only set me back about 3 days. It sands like rubberized plastic and clogs the sandpaper instantly. The stripper dried it out and hardened it up some so that it would sand off. What a mess. I was wrong, nobody should put that kind of paint on their car, or any car for that matter.

EDIT: I painted about half of the passenger's door only, thank God.

 

Lookin' Good!!!

 

I'm sorry, but that is THE best Camaro on this site.

 

I agree. But unfortunately, many didnt think so. I think its the best OEM Camaro while others chose a aftermarket Pontiac for the month of October car.

 

Well you can't impeach the new president just cause the candidate you voted for didn't win the election. whiteDevils car won cotm fair and square.

 

It doesn't matter how you slice it. Painting with Rustoleum spray cans or with a roller is a terrible idea. You can wipe that crap off with mild solvents. Not to mention if you ever wanted to repaint the car the right way you are in for hours upon hours of work to strip that stuff completely off.

I don't know how some of you can drive around knowing they have a full paint job that was done with rustoleum or some other sub par stuff.

If your on a budget or need some know how. Check this guys vids and info out http://www.easypaintyourcar.com/

 

Would have saved you major work had you had waited. I painted my car the proper way and the amount of sanding and blocking for a proper paint job was a ton of work. I would never want to put forth that much work because I decided to use cheap paint and had to sand it all off.

You don't need industrial power to run a compressor. A wall plug will work fine to paint a car at home. If your too broke to at least rent a compressor then you shouldn't be working on any project cars.

No they don't.


Since you sanded your car back down to bare metal you you have tacked on some major costs.The body on your car is going to to have more waves then an ocean. Now you need a hi build primer (maybe even a complete skim of filler) and hours upon hours of block sanding. Not a good idea when your on a budget.

 

 

Very true. One person can't impeach a president either. But if there was a poll on best looking factory 3rd gen, then Moyer would take the cake. The whole triple deck wedding cake at that.

 

Back to topic. So regardless of the situation on hand, constructive criticism is not worth noting because of the fact that Rustoleum was used right?

 

Nope, your wrong... My car has no ripples or waves. It took less than 2 hrs to get the car to bare metal. I could have left it like it was and still been happy. Like I said, some folks are not willing to sit on a car for yrs to get it painted properly (dead weight). Again, my friend has kids and a house to pay for. That car would have NEVER been painted, he is simply not able to save up enough cash at a time to do it. The car was 10 different colors from all the different parts we used to put it together. Is that really so hard to believe.

not everyone has a compressor
not everyone has the means to get one
not everyone knows a friend that has one
not everyone has the cash

yes, there are many reasons (more than the above)...

The same go's for welding. If none of this is hitting home, then I don't know what to tell you.

 

This is not a classic car we're talking about. My car has a salvage title... I would never let an IROC sit on the side of my house for years because I was saving money to fix it up and paint it. These things are a dime a dozen. I would paint it cheap and get it running or get rid of it... Lots of ppl feel that way, its the reason so many mid yr F-body's are on Craigslist right now.

I don't own my house and my landlord made a fuss about me pulling the car apart, so I did the quickest paint job possible at the time and put it back together.

I could get another IROC anytime (less than $1000 in most cases). There is a reason ppl do this sort of thing to IROCs, in most cases the paint job cost more than the cars value or price tag.

 

If you say so. Looking at that pic you used a drill with a wheel attachment to take the paint off. Recipe for disaster. I have yet to see a resto done right that was not skimmed with filler or high build primer and then blocked to get the car 100% straight again after stripping to bare metal by sanding.


Sounds like you really shouldn't be putting money into project cars. Most of your reply's translate to (I don't have any money so I can't do it that way). Which is fine but don't expect not to be criticized about the methods you choose.


If you can't understand what I mean about your body panels have a look here

More: http://www.onlymustangfords.com/paint-your-mustang.html

But since your happy with rustoleum or some other sub par paint I guess none of this actually applies does it?

 

This thread should be more of a tutorial on what not to do. From what I've seen you're causing more harm than good to that poor car and you really shouldn't be handing out "lessons".

 

Yes I did use a drill (among other things), worked great.

For me, money was not the issue, it was time. I have other cars that are actually worth the time and money (current 69 RS project w/ carbon fiber everything). My thirdgen is not one of them, but I still put more into it than most (about 16k not include paint, but include the price of the car). Nearly everything on my car is new down to the bolts and wires *it's a salvaged car, it needed everything. I knew that going into the build.

- UMI everything
- LS1/T56, ACT clutch, custom MC, new TC, LS6 intake
- EZ wire 21 circuit harness, shaved door kit
- Bilstein shox/struts, new springs
- all braided fuel lines, all Russell AN fittings, z06 filter
- LS1 brake swap (front rear), all new brake lines
- New top w/ glass, weather stripping (paid more for this than the car)
- New hood, fenders, bumper cover, grill cover, front end bolt kit
- New steering box, rebuilt steering col
the list go's on....

when I talk about money, I'm not talking about myself. This is a toy car that I don't take serious at all. If anyone is using rustoleum, they most likely feel the same way.

Your post is kinda 1 sided, we get that you would not have did what me and OP did. But you have no idea what I do and don't have.

Again, what did you expect to see coming into a rustolelum thread?? To me, results where about as good as it could have been given what he was doing. If you could do better with the same materials, it would not have been by much.

 

Most thirdgens I see are completely run down and are lucky to be getting paint at all. No thirdgen I have ever saw is worth a 3k+ pro paint job, or even worth a $800 at home paint job. I'm in the SF bay area and the EPA prohibits the use of all single stage paint and a few other types as well. I tried to order online, but nobody will ship to my zip. I would have been forced to order low VOC 2 stage from every vendor.

The tractor paint was all I could find.
It's not as easy for me to get "fleet quality" or other bargain paints where I live.

 

Spoken like a person who doesn't know WTF they're looking at.

 

your particular pool of thirdgens must be waaaay better than mine bro. No matter how much I spend on my 89, my 69 RS is worth more. A paint job is not going to change that.

this thread is way off topic. like I said before, don't take all this personal. Stuff will happen and some folks cannot do it the right way for whatever reason... some of you guys just don't seem to get that. I don't approve of "showing off" a bad paint job no matter the quality of paint used. I also don't approve of some of the negative remarks made here.

 

^ lets see your "Carbon '69" big money and write "sailtex eat crow" on a piece of paper in the pic. I dont buy that for a second in light of your "info" in this thread

 

it's in my build thread if you really wanna see it. like I said, I don't know what yall expect coming into these kinds of threads. I wouldn't say big money, but still nice. All new sheet metal and a lot of carbon fiber from Anvil and ridetech suspension w/ coil overs. Also some fesler stuff too

I'll be sure to post the "eat crow" pic soon as its done tooo!!! lol hahaha!

 

also, I didn't post any "info"... merely stating what I know to be true. rustoleum is rustoleum... if your going to paint with it, you will not see a night and day diff between rattlecans and just about any other method. I helped my friend do it 2 times, that's how I know.

Most of the ppl posting, never tried it and never would. I get that, but this thread is clearly not about best practices. At this point yall are just slamming anyone even using rustoleum, I try to say that ppl do with with a reason... then yall say I'm wrong (even though I'm not). That's all this is.

I really don't have anything to prove to anyone. Say what you want, but my $54 painted car has been posted and is still cleaner than nearly every thirdgen I see around my area.

 

link? pics? all im seeing is more words. i would like nothing more to see it, too many jokers claiming untrue things on here now-a-days

If ya cant afford a cheap automotive paint job, you shouldn't be painting a car at all. there is not "but" of "if", period.

where do you live?

 

this is the car. It has a "body in a box" kit along with a bunch of carbon fiber panels and fester parts. It's also getting all ridetech suspension (among other things). it will also be getting a LS3/T56. you don't have to believe it buddy



Here is is after I pulled the 427 and sent it off for new panels

 

Camaro looks good!

I'd like to see how this discussion turns out. Personally I would prefer a car that was all one color instead of one that had faded, peeled, wornout paint with rust spots to boot. I'm looking at having mine repainted and so far I've gotten estimates of $1300 (Maaco) all the way up to an $8000 job at a bodyshop. Maaco will tape things off and the bodyshop will remove them. These prices really don't make rattle can or roller paint jobs look more attractive to me but it does help me understand why someone would put a $40 paint job on a $500 car. We all want our cars to look nice and the cost of nice is relative. As someone has already pointed out, at the end of the day, the car is THEIRS. So if you are happy with what you have more power to you. This is still a sharing/educational forum. People that agree with the cheap paint jobs get the "how to do it" and the people that don't, enlighten everyone as to why they shouldn't get the cheap job. Its a win-win thread.

 

still in for "carbon everything"

 

your trying to give me a hard time for no reason dude. the car has nearly every carbon fiber part anvil offers for the 1969 camaro. Every part that's not carbon fiber is a OER replacement. these are the kinds of negative comments I was previously talking about. this guy clearly has no point to prove, no reason for a post like this one.

 

And here I thought we were talking about $40 paint jobs....