Before painting a car, my father always seals it with Sherwin Williams sealer. On my IROC, it lifted a couple feather-edges on the nose. We're in the process of painting my GTA right now, and it's a f**king mess. Every single feather-edge on the whole car lifted and shows through the color. On one spot on the nose, the paint literally lifted right up and separated from the layer beneath. His body shop is backed up beyond belief, so I've got to live with the crap paint job for now, but he's getting fed up with the sealer not sealing properly. What are you guys using to prevent this?

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The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
Custom Thirdgen Subwoofer Enclosures
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah

 

If it lifted, it wasn't the sealer, it was whatever the feather edge that lifted was. Sealers are usually pretty mild, so if it brought up edges, you had bad adhesion to start with. You should use nothing but an epoxy or urethane primer, if the feather edge aroung the primer lifted, it's because the solvents went under the laquer and lifted it and the primer. The car should be stripped, but at the very least completely feathered, and urethane primered. If on sanding you break through, re-prime. Leave nowhere for the solvents to get under. Urethane primers are impenetrable.

 

The sealer is not lifting the feather edge as long as I don't put it on too heavily. The paint is, but the sealer is supposed to prevent the paint from lifting the feather edge. That's the whole point of using sealer. I think we're going to try an enamel sealer instead of the laquer-based sealer that we've been using. With good sealer, paint shouldn't be lifting the feather edge, even with the standard-dry reducer that we're using.

I guess we'll find out. :/

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The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
Custom Thirdgen Subwoofer Enclosures
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah

 

You shouldn't be getting lift period. The sealer is to prevent feather edge lift after it's on. If you can't even get it on, you've got a problem. And, an air dry sealer (non-catalyzed) isn't going to hold nuthin back. It will only give you a uniform surface to paint over. Once again, I'm telling you, use an epoxy or urethane primer and sealer. Even then, if you put it over a substandard finish, (old failing laquer for example,) feather edge lift will still come up later, to some degree anyway. Trust me, I do this for a living.

 

I'll relay this to my father and see what happens. He's been doing this for 30 years but it always seems like it's my cars he has these problems on.



------------------

The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
Custom Thirdgen Subwoofer Enclosures
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah

 

I agree with Marty, Old lacquer can be evil. Step up to the 90's and use urethanes, they cost more but are worth it in the long run. Lacquer products are 1930's technology.

 

I talked to my dad yesterday and apparently the new sealer that he ordered was an epoxy sealer.

The problem is, we live in a small area. He had to ORDER this crap because no place in town stocks it. All they keep is the laquer stuff, but apparently every body shop in the area uses it without problems, and my father's used it for years with no problems as well. I dunno.

I'm just fed up with car problems. I hope this epoxy sealer does the trick.

------------------

The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
Custom Thirdgen Subwoofer Enclosures
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah