What's the trick? Anything special I need to know before I get started??

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85T/A 305/QJ work in progress.

 

what are you doing it on? when was it painted. do you know how much clear is left.
and why are you doing it?

i am a professional wetsander/detailer at a body shop. its my job. if you have any direct questions email me at jayc003@hotmail.com. i will answer everything and give you #s for the products to use.
good luck and answer my questions when you email me. ill be waiting. thanks



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Jarrad
United States ARMY Military Police Officer 339th Division


formerly owned:
1990 IROC-Z L98

 

It would be more helpfull I think if you did the answers on here so everyone can read them.

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'82 Z28
LG4 305 .030 over, performer intake, holley street avenger 670, xe 256 cam, tes headers, 3 inch single exhaust, spintech muffler, 14 x 3 inch drop base k&n.

 

Duh, sorry about that. I'm going to get the car painted in a couple of months and need to start on the prep work. Doing a bit of sanding today it appears that there's been at least 3 paint jobs done on this car, including the original. The last one was a joke. No clear coat as far as I can tell. There is primer between each coat also. The paint seems to be pitting, badly in someplaces like the hood. I know I'll have to sand down past the pitting. I think I'll do OK on the bondo work 'cuz I'm really good with similar work on R/C aircraft. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

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85T/A 305/QJ work in progress.

 

if your talking about wetsanding to strip the paint. you should dry sand it down.. alot.. i would personally take it down to original paint with 80 GRIT. then bondo and primer. then sand with 150 grit.

then when everything is totally done. use 800 grit to the whole car. this will prep the paint to stick and it wont show sanding scratches.
now use an air compressor to spray dust off car.
then take some cleaner (perferably laquer cleaner) and wipe down the surface.

this will get any dust particles that are hiding or what not, and will strip any oils or anything that will cause fish eyes.

how you are set to mask up and put her in the booth. then paint and clear. then dry and now

WETSAND.
using 1500 on a block, then 2000 cross cut now you will have a paint job that is very hazy. it will look bad. but once you have gotten the little dirt specs. they show up at little colored rings (ex it hasnt been sanded there. still shiny) sand those down smooth and you have a perfectly blocked and wetsanded car.

now get out the BUFFER, and turn it to speeds of 1400-1600 rpms. and use a 5704 3M buffing pad, and 5974 3M Perfect IT II Rubbbing Compound, and buff to a high gloss.
then use a foam pad from 3M and some Perfect IT III Machine glaze. and glaze the car.

now you will still have some swirl marks.. that is why you get out the 3M Imperial Hand Glaze. and apply that and TAH F-ING DAH. perfect paint job.

oh yeah wash the car. or wash before you hand glaze. either way.
and put it back together.

------------------
Jarrad
United States ARMY Reserves Military Police Officer 339th Division

Professional Detailer

formerly owned:
1990 IROC-Z L98


[This message has been edited by RARE-ROC-Z (edited November 25, 2001).]

 

Too Cool! I would have never thought of sanding AFTER painting the final coats. Guess you learn something new every day. The 80 grit sense. Anything smaller would get clogged really easy.

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85T/A 305/QJ work in progress.

 

You gotta wet sand to see the real shine after you paint.

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86 Camaro Black SS Coupe, T Tops, ASCD Daytona Twin Turbo hood, Flowmaster, Custom Black Paint, Dunlop Road Kings S/R tires, Wheel Country Directional Chrome Wheels,new charcoal & gray interior including seats and door panels, leather wrapped steering wheel, shifter and emergency brake, new carpet and headliner, complete front end suspension rebuild, new Valve seals, and more mods to come
'91 RS 5.0 TBI = Waiting to be modded, but has all of the toys inside.

http://www.angelfire.com/sports/niterider/86camaro.html
Morgan_Andre@hotmail.com

 

I spent 4 hours on each panel to get it to perfection. 4 hours on one fender, 6 hours on the hood, 4 hours for each door, 4 hours for the rear fenders & only about an hour to do the rear hatch. (Keep in mind this included the polishing stage as well. I used a D/A for most of this.

I might have taken longer than a pro, but my work really shows.

John

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G O D BLESS AMERICA

http://www.3rdgenformula.com
87 Formula 5.1 TPI Auto Modified (Yellow/Black)

87 Formula TPI (5 Speed) Yellow/Gray STOCK

14.8sec 1967 Buick Riviera
1990 Buick Riviera (driver)
83 Camaro
83 T/A

[This message has been edited by okfoz (edited November 28, 2001).]

 

Would you still do the wetsanding deal even with a paint job at Maaco or earl scheib (NO COMMENTS ABOUT THEM!!) with the clear coat package? Also, about how much would all that 3M deal cost as well as that buffer? Materials cost. I aggree with cartman, Keep the questions on this post. Thanks.

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1984 Firebird SE
1985 Camaro z28 305 engine T-5 Five Speed Tranny, 92 Camaro Leather Seats Console, carpet everything. Soon to put in 700R4 and 427CI. (Hopefully.
To view my car go to:

http://geocities.com/jmboriss/bluecar.html

 

i've heard that wetsanding a maaco paint job is the key to making them look really good and making them last

------------------
'87 Sports Coupe Camaro
-305 4bbl (LG4)
-flowmaster catback
-free mods

'76 Firebird
-355
-mild isky cam
-hooker headers
-mallory ignition
-edelbrock torquer II intake
-carter 625 afb
-eaton 3.73 posi rear end
-B&M shift kit

 

So would that be ok to do then. Is any waiting period I would have be concerned about? Also, could some who has NO experience with paint do something like this?

------------------
1984 Firebird SE
1985 Camaro z28 305 engine T-5 Five Speed Tranny, 92 Camaro Leather Seats Console, carpet everything. Soon to put in 700R4 and 427CI. (Hopefully.
To view my car go to:

http://geocities.com/jmboriss/bluecar.html

 

Anyone? Thanks.

------------------
1984 Firebird SE
1985 Camaro z28 305 engine T-5 Five Speed Tranny, 92 Camaro Leather Seats Console, carpet everything. Soon to put in 700R4 and 427CI. (Hopefully.
To view my car go to:

http://geocities.com/jmboriss/bluecar.html

 

I'm going to keep putting this up until someone answers this.

------------------
1984 Firebird SE
1985 Camaro z28 305 engine T-5 Five Speed Tranny, 92 Camaro Leather Seats Console, carpet everything. Soon to put in 700R4 and 427CI. (Hopefully.
To view my car go to:

http://geocities.com/jmboriss/bluecar.html

 

Me too. If wet sanding is the secret then I wanna learn! I'll be hitting up Macco in a few months and would love to make it look great!

------------------
85T/A 305/QJ work in progress.

 

yes wetsanding will make any paint job look good. maaco or scheib. it doesnt matter. it will smooth it out and bring out the deep shine.

i am sorry i have been busy guys.
so i couldnt get back online.

any more questions i can answer.

okfoz you spent way too much time on your car. i mean shoot if i spent that much time i would go through the paint.
and i would never use a DA to wetsand the final clear. i might be wrong you might be thinking and talking about preping the fenders and stuff for paint not after its done painting.

82Fbird502- the 3M stuff you will have to find at the closest auto paint store. i dont know how much it costs since the shop buys it for me. and the buffer i dont know how much it cost. i think you can get one for some where from $150-$200.

good luck and any more questions keep posting till i get back to you.

------------------
Jarrad
United States ARMY Reserves Military Police Officer 339th Division

Professional Detailer

formerly owned:
1990 IROC-Z L98
Dupont Flame Red
13.83s-99.7mph