hood latch?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 564
Likes: 0
From: N.E. Ohio
Car: 87 Gta
Engine: 5.3
Transmission: 4l60e
Axle/Gears: 3.42
hood latch?
Hey guys, my project is finally almost done but now I need to find a hood release cable/latch. Any ideas where I could get one or should I just plan on using hood pins?
Thanks
Thanks
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,482
Likes: 9
From: Northern, CA
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z Camaro
Engine: TBI,5.0
Transmission: Automatic 700R4
Axle/Gears: Eaton Posi,3.42,LPW Ultimate Cover
Re: hood latch?
A wrecking yard/pick n pull. Chances are if they have five Third Gens they will have five complete units. They're not real high on the pick list.
The pins I'm using are a precautionary measure.
Other than grasping the hood the latch keeps people from being able to open it without my permission.
The pins I'm using are a precautionary measure.
Other than grasping the hood the latch keeps people from being able to open it without my permission.
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 5,892
Likes: 84
From: Mantua NJ
Car: 1 Owner 1986 TA with a WS6 package
Engine: 5.0 EFI
Transmission: THM700R4
Axle/Gears: 277 Posi Speedo
Re: hood latch?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/82-92-Camaro-Firebird-Original-White-Print-Hood-Release-Cable-NEW-GM-/291049804641?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1986%7CMake%3APontiac%7CModel%3AFirebird&hash=item43c3eb9361&vxp=mtr
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 564
Likes: 0
From: N.E. Ohio
Car: 87 Gta
Engine: 5.3
Transmission: 4l60e
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: hood latch?
I kinda of figured a scrap yard, I know when I first got my car the hood never opened without messing with it. So I figured I'd try to just replace it all. That and my cable was pretty tore up haha
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,482
Likes: 9
From: Northern, CA
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z Camaro
Engine: TBI,5.0
Transmission: Automatic 700R4
Axle/Gears: Eaton Posi,3.42,LPW Ultimate Cover
Re: hood latch?
I like the one mantaguy posted.
Even though there very common item at the Pick n Pull I doubt you will find one looking that nice.
Even though there very common item at the Pick n Pull I doubt you will find one looking that nice.
Last edited by Ron U.S.M.C.; Mar 16, 2015 at 07:29 PM.
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: South Dakota
Car: 1991 Z 28
Engine: 350
Transmission: Auto
Re: hood latch?
i have one i would sell. i took the factory hood off and replaced with a pin on glass hood. let me know if you are interested, its still on the car. PM me if interested.
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Senior Member

Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 726
Likes: 1
From: League City, TX
Car: 90 Formula -- tot resto in progress
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4 w/ 2500 stall, by Owen @ ARD
Axle/Gears: 3.23 posi disc
Re: hood latch?
The typical issue is that the cable housing deteriorates/cracks after
20 years in the hostile under hood environment. Here's how I renewed mine.
Cut of the crimped on end, then pull the cable out of the housing.
A good bicycle repair shop will have (a) housing in bulk, and (b) a small
thread-on cable retainer, that is used on hand brakes. Cut off the old housing
at the handle, and latch positioner, and remove the bulkhead grommet.
Cut the new housing a bit shorter than the original, cause there's adequate
length to re-route when re-installing. The critical dimension is enough
steel cable sticking out the end, to mount the new retainer.
Carefully drill out the housing remnants, put the bulkhead grommet back on,
and epoxy the new housing into place. If the cable end fray's after cutting
off old crimp-lock, apply enough epoxy, to keep the strands together.
It will be much easier to get back through the housing.
Good luck,
kk
20 years in the hostile under hood environment. Here's how I renewed mine.
Cut of the crimped on end, then pull the cable out of the housing.
A good bicycle repair shop will have (a) housing in bulk, and (b) a small
thread-on cable retainer, that is used on hand brakes. Cut off the old housing
at the handle, and latch positioner, and remove the bulkhead grommet.
Cut the new housing a bit shorter than the original, cause there's adequate
length to re-route when re-installing. The critical dimension is enough
steel cable sticking out the end, to mount the new retainer.
Carefully drill out the housing remnants, put the bulkhead grommet back on,
and epoxy the new housing into place. If the cable end fray's after cutting
off old crimp-lock, apply enough epoxy, to keep the strands together.
It will be much easier to get back through the housing.
Good luck,
kk
Last edited by l_dis_travlr; Apr 7, 2015 at 09:42 PM.
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