When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My local pullnpay only has a couple v6 4th gens though yesterday they got an 89 firebird formula. I got the powerbulge hood ($70), nice front bumper ($45) and a fiberglass rear Spoiler in pretty good condition $(17). Not sure why the car was even there besides a few rust spots. Anyways for the rear Spoiler a few of the plastic clips broke - is there any fix for this? And will it bolt directly in place of my base 89s regular spoiler?
Last edited by armybyrd; Apr 28, 2015 at 06:40 PM.
Dang...you got that spoiler for $17.00? You stole that.
Yes sir. Lol upon further research I found that they were either rubber or plastic/urethane from the factory. That and I need the mounting clips which are no longer available from GM. :/ hoping hawks can sell them.
It was hard enough being by myself. I had to carry the hood a good ways lol. The wheels were in great shape but I've got already got a set. Really not sure why someone sent this car there. The engine bay wasn't even dirty.
Originally Posted by PurelyPMD
I'd have taken the whole hatch - probably easier too.
Can anyone confirm that unless the car originally had the wrap around spoiler with metal latches spot welded into the hatch trim there's no way to swap to a wrap around? Mine is a base model with the pedestal type spoiler.
I'd have grabbed the rear discs brakes assembly if I were around. But $70 for a Turbo hood, that's a steal. The T-Tops center bar is worth picking too if it's clean.
Yes you would need the metal tabs for the stock spoiler. But with a fiberglass spoiler I don't know.
Sad to see it go, looks like it just needed a paint job.
Its a base motor formula = no rear disc
The wrap around spoiler needs the deck lid and metal window trim to make it a true bolt on. If you try to put it on the base wing decklid, you will need to fill and drill new holes everywhere.
I'd have grabbed the rear discs brakes assembly if I were around. But $70 for a Turbo hood, that's a steal. The T-Tops center bar is worth picking too if it's clean.
Yes you would need the metal tabs for the stock spoiler. But with a fiberglass spoiler I don't know.
Sad to see it go, looks like it just needed a paint job.
Had drums. Might come back from the ttop center bar - what's involved with removing it?
Its a base motor formula = no rear disc
The wrap around spoiler needs the deck lid and metal window trim to make it a true bolt on. If you try to put it on the base wing decklid, you will need to fill and drill new holes everywhere.
How much do they want 4 the wheels?
This may help you
I just listed the spoiler on craigslist. I might come back for the hatch though, its only $30. This local pullnpay 's prices are weird- big items are farely cheap I.e 300 for an engine, 100 for a tranny but they charged me 3 for an oil fill cap and wheels are about 30.
Its a base motor formula = no rear disc
The wrap around spoiler needs the deck lid and metal window trim to make it a true bolt on. If you try to put it on the base wing decklid, you will need to fill and drill new holes everywhere.
How much do they want 4 the wheels?
This may help you
Where in Gods name did you find these.you must be the only person on Earth to have those clips
Ten small philips screws (four are hidden under the weatherstripping).
To add a little, if you see ANY rust whatsoever, don't waste your time. The bottoms are generally worse than the tops. I'd practice on another car first, a car with a rusted out bar. They are also glued on, so once you remove the screws, wiggle it to work it free. Much easier to do on a sunny, warm day. Once you get it off, look at the underside (see circled area in pic). Those are almost always rusted out. If its rusted, its worthless.
To add a little, if you see ANY rust whatsoever, don't waste your time. The bottoms are generally worse than the tops. I'd practice on another car first, a car with a rusted out bar. They are also glued on, so once you remove the screws, wiggle it to work it free. Much easier to do on a sunny, warm day. Once you get it off, look at the underside (see circled area in pic). Those are almost always rusted out. If its rusted, its worthless.
Just so I understand....these break pretty easily, and are still needed with the conversion to the Hawks fiberglass spoiler?
I've read several R&R descriptions of the spoiler, but to be honest, have yet to make any sense of them. I think it's one of those things I'll just have to try taking apart when the time comes, and learn as I go.
Just so I understand....these break pretty easily, and are still needed with the conversion to the Hawks fiberglass spoiler?
I've read several R&R descriptions of the spoiler, but to be honest, have yet to make any sense of them. I think it's one of those things I'll just have to try taking apart when the time comes, and learn as I go.
No Dave,they are not used on the Hawks FG Spoiler,I used the Hardware supplied with it.
This is what I had to do back in 1/11 to get those bad boys had to go to a GM Dealer and get a list of any GM Dealer that had any in stock and see what I paid for just 8 of them.
The price of determination - I just paid $35 for an NOS rear seat console bracket for my 73 TA that probably cost $2 back in the day.
Went to a junkyard back in the day and pulled out 6 rear consoles, broke 16 yr old, didn't have the cash they wanted for them all so i had 2 leave them.
Went back the next week 2 get em and they had thrown them away.
Went to a junkyard back in the day and pulled out 6 rear consoles, broke 16 yr old, didn't have the cash they wanted for them all so i had 2 leave them.
Went back the next week 2 get em and they had thrown them away.
1st - I'm amazed you were able to find 6 in one junkyard!
2nd - They're idiots!
BTW - just sent an e-mail, trying to get more pics for you.
Another thing worth grabbing off of a Formula is the sway bars. They'll be a 36/24mm combo since it is a WS6 car (as all Formulas are) and they aren't really wear items.
Another thing worth grabbing off of a Formula is the sway bars. They'll be a 36/24mm combo since it is a WS6 car (as all Formulas are) and they aren't really wear items.
Do sway bars ever get worn out being a 20+ year old car?
Another thing worth grabbing off of a Formula is the sway bars. They'll be a 36/24mm combo since it is a WS6 car (as all Formulas are) and they aren't really wear items.
Do sway bars ever get worn out being a 20+ year old car?
No, sometimes they crack or even break, but they don't wear out.
No, sometimes they crack or even break, but they don't wear out.
They do, indeed, get worn, at the bushing. Attached is a shot of a 21mm rear bar that I have. There should be grease in the bushing to protect the bar. 20+ years later, when the grease is long since gone, when the bar starts rusting inside of the bushing... the detached rust rubs against the bar, causing more wear. I'm no suspension expert, but I have found several bars like this in the boneyards; it's clear to the naked eye that a section of the sway bar is missing. I don't understand why this happens on some, but not others. I stripped a really nice '85 TA, had 60K miles. Registration sticker was from like 1995. I did not expect to find this decay on the sway bar, but I did.
They do, indeed, get worn, at the bushing. Attached is a shot of a 21mm rear bar that I have. There should be grease in the bushing to protect the bar. 20+ years later, when the grease is long since gone, when the bar starts rusting inside of the bushing... the detached rust rubs against the bar, causing more wear. I'm no suspension expert, but I have found several bars like this in the boneyards; it's clear to the naked eye that a section of the sway bar is missing. I don't understand why this happens on some, but not others. I stripped a really nice '85 TA, had 60K miles. Registration sticker was from like 1995. I did not expect to find this decay on the sway bar, but I did.
I hear what you are saying but I read his question as asking if they suffer from fatigue like a leaf spring would and loose their spring strength over time. Do they rust and grind down in the bushing, yes....do the loose their torsional strength due to use, no.
