I've searched around a bit and believe my problem stems from my door latches.

I had a badly sagging and scraping door that I replaced upper and lower hinge pins and bushings with the 11 dollar oreilly kit (the hard part of cutting away the old hinge pins is done so I can un bolt these and put andys nicer hinge pins in eventually if I ever need to.) The new hinge pins definitely got rid of the sagging and scraping, but my door still takes some force to get it fully latched closed.

Before I replaced the hinge pins, it took a lot of force to close the door. Now, it doesn't take nearly as much force to close, but it still doesn't close with ease. I have to make sure to push the door near the latch when I close it firmly, or it will only partially latch.


My door also seems to be very slightly sticking out (as in not flush where it latches) with the body. I did mess around adjusting the striker bolt a bunch and never got results I wanted. When the striker bolt was adjusted as close to the inside, the door would be even harder to close, but pretty flush with the outside of the car (near perfect for me but I had to close the door with great force to get it fully latched). When I had the striker bolt out, the door was much easier to close, but stuck out about 1/4in from the body (and not quite as easy to close as I would like still.)


I don't quite know if the door is still not aligned properly and not able to adjust itself on the striker, or if there is a different problem. I tried adjusting the upper hinge by loosening the bolts, but couldn't seem to get any adjustments done. Also, the door looks and feels like it is straight with not scraping or anything.


When taking a closer look at my latches, the plastic covering on them is completely gone where it grabs the striker. I read that could cause some issues with closing the door, but that you can't replace the plastic part, only the latches themselves. However, I can't find the latches for sale at all, and they apparently are very expensive and also somewhat year specific between early 80s, 88, and 89-92. I tried blasting a bunch of wd-40 in the hinges after using brake clean on them, but it didn't seem to do much.


Can someone think of what else I can try to get my door to close easier? Should I try and wrap some plastic tubing around the striker bolt, or should I scavange around for new door latches?

This door issue is quite annoying because my friend who just bought a 91 camaro has doors that close flawlessly, and my other friend who looked at a 87 irco (with no tranny and left in the sun for years) has doors that close excellently also. Mine however isn't that great.

Anyways any help or advise would be great!

 

the latch can be removed and soaked in carb cleaner or some other solvent to completely clean it, then lubricated and re-installed.

you can also cut the black plastic cover that goes over the rear seat back latch bolt and install it on the door latch striker bolt.

It may be a latch AND alignment issue, but try the above.

New weather stripping can cause the door to be difficult to close as well.

 

I had this same issue on my '79 trans am and ended up soaking the latch like naf said, but I used garage door lube to grease it up so it wouldn't attract dirt like WD40 or chain lube would. Worked great and never had an issue with it again.

 

Hmm okay I will probably take my latches off then and soak them. If the alignment is off, I may consider just altering the striker bolt hole so I can have a bigger adjustment, because it seems as if the door is where it needs to be, and I can't get it to adjust anymore.

I'll definitely soak the latches before I do any modifications though.

 

I read your issue with door slam.
I hear same metallic noise when i slam drivers door with strength.
Door latch catch seems to be set a little higher than other's side and as result catch bumps on to the striker and door wont close easy.
Of course when glass window is down door closes easily.
How have you managed to solve this issue.

 

Well I haven't looked too much into it since then. I did try cleaning it a little which helped, but I think I need to fully take it off which I haven't.

Your issue with hearing the metallic noise may have to do with the door cables behind the door panel or in the door themselves wiggling around when the door is closed. They also may be binding up partially when the window is up, messing with the latch.

Have you taken the door panel off to try and look at what's going on behind it?

 

If your issue is the door alignment? Unfortunately the door alignment can't be diagnosed until you have repaired the door hinge pins & bushings. In your case you have done this. How does the door line up? Easiest way to diagnose is the compare the door protective bumper to the adjoining piece beyond the door? The EZ-Store door alignment tool I sell is specifically designed to adjust the door up or down as needed to correct the alignment. I wouldn't try moving the striker to match a mis-aligned door.

Lon Salgren

 

I was thinking of loosen the bolts which hold the latch and try to adjust and set latch a little lower.

 

Just re-installed my doors after paint. We took the doors and sat them on the car and latched them in to the strikers. We then got the bolts started for the hinges and while one guy holds up on the back side (latch end of the door) the other tightens up the bolts. Worked on both sides without any adjustments.