Originally Posted by NufNuffZ28

................They want quick and easy jobs. Doing an "insurance claim" where they replace a headlight, hood, and respray them for $2500 is a couple hour job and the profit is large........

Originally Posted by ZsTransAm

My shop won't paint anything that someone else did the bodywork on. A non professional doesn't know how to do it correctly, the welds may not be strong enough, the metal could rust, the filler could crack, ect. I've seen it a few times. Bodywork done by a non-bodyman won't be up to the bodyshop's standards. If the bodywork is done poorly it will reflect badly on the shop that painted it. A non-professional might apply the product wrong and it could fail. Also if I don't know what primer is on it, it might react badly with the sealer. It could wrinkle up as soon as you spray it on, or it could fall off in a year. Plus PPG doesn't want us to spray its product over any non PPG primer so it can't be warrantied.

Also, people who aren't in the profession aren't great at gauging what 'minor bodywork' is. The guy I bought my car from told me it had a minor dent on the door. and the fender. It turned out to be waaay worse than that. If you have a 2 foot crease in the quarter you need moderate to major bodywork.

If you walked into my shop tomorrow I wouldn't be able to tell you any of this. I'd be afraid of sounding rude, of you taking it the wrong way and telling people about your bad experience. I'd bet thats why your just getting the short answer and being shooed out the door.

Originally Posted by Billgluckman

This is the reason you're having trouble finding someone to paint your car. Your prep work (filler, if i'm reading this right) is a liability for the shop, and the crease you mention could be much more of an issue than you think. I'd like to see pics of this car and the crease/replacement roof panel.

Body shops won't cut corners to save you money. Have you asked them why the estimate is so high? I'm sure they'll give you a reason.

Originally Posted by mmadden55

Rent a compressor and buy a cheap harbor freight gun. Rig a spray booth in your garage. Paint can be bought at NAPA. Paint isn't that hard. Just need to practice a little before you do the car , use an old fender. Most of the 5k paint job is the prep you have already done. If you make a mistake somewhere sand it out and paint it again.

Originally Posted by jamon8

I restore cars and paint them and its not all fun and games. and 700 in materials is not gonna cover it when you figure in high build primers and sand paper and everything else that goes into a paint job. I usually have materials bills between 1500-2500. And dont forget the hours. I am doing a flat black job with door jambs and charging 2500 to paint it. thats 55 hours at 45 dollars an hour with minimal body work.

everyone want to talk about how they dont want a show job when you are talking about price but as soon as the car is put back together everyone is a 10 point inspector. so save your bullshit! My sprayguns alone are worth more than 5k and dont get me started on all the rest of the tools i have to buy to make cars look better than new.

you posers think you can put together a small block chevy and you have the world by the *****, but painting a car and having it last more than 20 yrs takes a little more work than the average guy is willing to do.

so you say you dont have time, i hope it is because you make alot of money! and if so should not mind paying someone 70-100 an hour with over 100 hours of labor to finish your car the right way

and by the way it does not even look like a third gen so you need to post this whinny **** on someone elses site

Originally Posted by John in RI

The single biggest problem I had while shopping for a painter. No Motor meant that 1/3 of the shops I spoke with said no and walked away,........ Then I mentioned "stripes" and only got 1 or 2 shops even give me any quote at all.

I built a "garage booth" once and - as a novice - painted this 86Z for under a grand',... ( obviously my labor ) and that includes new door seals, new Fairchild window seals, and used T-Top seals.

After Pic: ( this is when I sold the car )


Before pic: ( this is how I got the car )



Going with Single stage means you will not be dealing with any Clear-Coat expense or issues. Just lay the single stage on thick ( overall ) and then wet-sand forever !!

Originally Posted by John in RI

Thanx MM ! It's the first and only Blue IROC I ever had. It was a cheap E-Bay single stage and I was a bit worried it would be too light (I did NOT want a baby-blue IROC !! )

And Thanx to you too Don; Although the interior was pretty nice in this after the restoration ( Grey Firebird door panels, Grey Leather 4th gen seats ) the engine was just a re-freshed 86 "roller" 86 LG4. Not enough 'nut' under the hood to compare to the COTM competition !! Yes - I called that 86 LG4 engine a "roller" ----> because I had to roll it end-over-end up the yard to get in in my garage so I could rebuild it !

I do still have a couple 85-90 Front spoilers,.. but no more 91-92's left. Feel free to send me a PM when your ready & I'll get some pic of them for Ya'.