Building a show car/ weekend cruiser.

Car is stripped and on a rotisserie that I built.

Starting to strip the floor boards and noticed that the "frame" areas are quite dented from years of improper jacking up.

Is it worth straightening these areas out? How would I go about doing that?
All I can think of is either cut out the dented area and rebuild with new steel, or weld pins and try and use a slide hammer, but I don't think the slide hammer will be enough mass to pull on the "frame" steel.

Looking for opinions and thoughts on the issue.

Don't think it would be horrible to simply leave as is and move on with prime and paint, but thought it would be worth seeing what you all think.



Car will be getting air ride and a new LS3/T-56 with a custom 1 off interior, shaved door handles, C6 Z06 wheels, has a mini tub, etc.....

 

Got the same kind of damage on my basket case. It's heavy steel, meaning it's not too easy to work out the dings. There's a little room to work through the drain hole, but I'd imagine to really get the stamping back in shape it'd probably take cutting the spot welds to remove the piece, and reshaping it off the car, then weld it back on. I'm not sure that'd be worth the trouble. I doubt welding studs and trying to use a puller would work too well, since generally the little of that I've tried on heavier panels, the studs just pop off before the metal moves.

 

"Show car" or not , how many people are gonna be getting that far under it to notice the denting ? I agree with Drew , straightening that out would be major work for very little gain . The furthest I'd go may be to cut an undented piece from a donor car and weld it onto the bottom , completely covering (hiding) the dented area (without having to remove that dented area) . If just the very bottom of the donor part was welded onto the bottom of your dented area , and then pained , the repair would be just this side of invisible even if someone DID peek under it ....

 

Thanks for the suggestions. I think I will leave it as is. Once it has fresh primer, I can see how it looks.

For now I will concentrate on undercoating removal and rust repair.

 

I'm doing floor pans, and have access to the inside of the torque boxes so I'm hammering out what I can from the inside.
Subframe connectors make a good jacking point once you get that far.