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Not in my case, they are just there. The turn signals are screwed into the metal. Just not sure what they do. thanks.
As the other person said, the plastic (yours are broken) pushes into the metal the turn signal housing tabs are screwed down into them. That's how it was done at the factory.
As the other person said, the plastic (yours are broken) pushes into the metal the turn signal housing tabs are screwed down into them. That's how it was done at the factory.
So as you can see I got some great advise on POR15 and I used it! SO the rust is on the front and bottom of the door. I DA and hand sanded it to get it down to metal and clear out any loose rust. I picked up the POR15 kit, cleaned it, prepped it, and... painted the bottom and... Front of the door.
Very easy to use just follow the directions. Tomorrow I will put some fiberglass down then bondo it. The whole door will get sanded to metal, new door lock actuators and power window motors. I am really enjoying this!
Nice! I've used other rust converters and have been extremely disappointed with them, but I'm sold on this stuff. I used POR15 on the small rust hole under my spare tire 6 years ago. It froze it and it looks the same today as the day I applied it. There is a procedure for using filler over the POR15, I've done it but I don't know how offhand.
Nice! I've used other rust converters and have been extremely disappointed with them, but I'm sold on this stuff. I used POR15 on the small rust hole under my spare tire 6 years ago. It froze it and it looks the same today as the day I applied it. There is a procedure for using filler over the POR15, I've done it but I don't know how offhand.
Thanks again for the advice, I agree its a great product. I will figure the filler part out. I am just happy its wasnt as bad as I thought it might have been. For a 30 year car, I am impressed, especially being in NYS. My 1999 Grand Prix rocker panels are gone and my 2005 Grand Am has rust on the drivers size door frame. Common on these cars. My 1999 Wrangler has rust issues too. But they are newer then my 1989, and yet it held up so much better then they all have body wise. Go figure.
So making slow progress on the car, the weather in NY has been crappy to say the least, for painting anyway. Hoping to paint as many parts top coat this coming weekend, weather is SUPPOSED to be cooler and sunny.
So there are some door plugs Yup, gonna need them! sanded down the rust, applied POR15 and then bondo. Happy with the results The underside. All in all the door is in pretty goo shape, look closely and you will see 30 years of dings, etc. Bad part is a storm blew in right after this pic, no fore warning. I cover it, but now some of the epoxy is peeling down to bare metal. ARRRGGGHHH Removed the power window motor, up its was the original one, still worked, very slow. Messed up on one of the rivet locations, HAHA Ground down the rivets to replace the door lock actuator. The bolts are SAE, but too hard to reach. I have the new one ready. Yup rear views! So I noticed the original rivet was very loose on this bracket. I ground it down and replaced it, nice and tight now!
Will keep the pics coming as I make progress, I am running out of summer and need to get this done!
Also I thought my door hinges were in good shape. Well I just ordered the pin kit and the bottom kit for 180 bucks from Hawks. These doors are getting a FULL TREATMENT. Just sucks I have to fix the peeling epoxy paint!
Last edited by Hawkeye1980; Aug 18, 2019 at 11:03 PM.
30 years old, gotta have some rust right? Bottom of drivers door outside bottom underneath
So am going to fiberglass and bondo it. I contimplated a replacement door but I need to keep some of the costs down. The door itself is fine otherwise.
Instead of fiberglass and bondo, look into panel bond. Clean that out, shape it up.
And if I had known, I had clean rust free doors, I could have brought you the beginning of July when I came to NY to visit my family.
Don't have the rubber pieces, I don't think. They mount in the bumper retainer?
Let me get out the retainer bar I have and get pics, and we'll see if we can figure this out.
Last edited by beths91camaro; Aug 19, 2019 at 07:35 AM.
so here is that tent I bought back in May. Just unpacked it this morning and blew it up. Bit of a scare, haha. There are 2 relief zippers that were open, I thought it had a leak. But it works AWESOME! so here is the deck and some small parts Fenders. I got some dripping on one of them I will have to sand out. But Happy over all. AHHH the font BUMPER!! Been 26 years since it was black!
Overall I am very happy. Its a bit bitter sweet too. I love this car and to see it being painted black again brings back many good memories over all, but some sad. Eastwood makes some great products!
Sorry for the delays in updates, been very busy. Summer is done and I go to get this paint job completed! So the only thing left to sand and paint is the rest of the car, rear panels.etc. I started removing the T-Top seals and the rear windshield will come off this weekend. I started wet sanding one of the doors and ordered the ICE buff package from Eastwood. shooting for 2 weeks to get this done but weather, rain, etc. sets me back. Ordered my rims too! See below! driver door pass door hood hood again rear bumper and of course, the spoiler! This is the T-Top bar, looks like its not paint on this part, almost a peel an stick finish. What would I recover this with?
i Think for the t top bar it’s going to have to be roughed up for paint to stick. Is it aluminum? It’s been a while since I’ve looked at mine.
Yeah looks that way. All good. I am wet sanding some of the parts, have some minor sand through, ARRGGH. Fortunately I am using 3 and 1 paint, has the clear in with it. Going to partially re shoot the sand through and wet sand again.
I gotta tell you its awesome! it can get hot in there but its makes painting easy and it blows up in less than 10 minutes. Folds up nice too. It will get use, going to repaint my JEEP next spring.
I wish they sold a smaller and cheaper one I could use as an extension of my little shop when I paint mine. I can’t swing $1k on one right now but I definitely have one on my wish list lol.
I wish they sold a smaller and cheaper one I could use as an extension of my little shop when I paint mine. I can’t swing $1k on one right now but I definitely have one on my wish list lol.
They do actually. Just search eBay or Google blow up paint booth.
This was a wish list item back about a year ago at 1800 bucks. Dropped quoted a bit and k caught it on sale. Normally 1300 bucks. But they have dropped on price.
Need this part, it covers the bolts for the rear glass window hinge. seen better days..... So I got all the t-top seals off and started to clean things up. Not terrible shape for 30 years. Started cleaning the passenger side. Nasty!!
Very close to sanding down the rest of the car, hopefully tomorrow. I have to take off the rear glass so I can sand the gutter for it. Then repair the metal around the glass and paint.
sand...sand...sand. Sanding down the body. Would have finished but I twisted my wrist. Hopefully done today and hoping to paint the rest of the car Sat or Sun. this week.
Thank you sir! Should have more pics tomorrow. The rest of the car is down to metal. Mostly taped up for primer tomorrow. Fingers crossed. Wet sanding is a pain, keep sanding through on the edges but will fix it.
Thank you sir! Should have more pics tomorrow. The rest of the car is down to metal. Mostly taped up for primer tomorrow. Fingers crossed. Wet sanding is a pain, keep sanding through on the edges but will fix it.
Before buffing, I sand with 1200 grit DRY at first, then 3000 wet, and 5000 grit wet.
Sanding the 1200 dry makes it a lot easier to see what you are doing to eliminate sand through.
You can also put masking tape on your edges when you do it, too
So I can prep it, then paint it with POR15. Then I can bondo over and go from there?
POR15 has a kit with a wash and a metal prep. The metal prep is actually phosphoric acid and you can pay a lot less by buying it at Home Depot for about $18./gal. It's in the painting section. Look for Prep & Etch. Look on youtube for videos on how this stuff works. If you are able to soak the rusty part overnight, it will remove ALL the rust and leave the surface gray and etched - perfect for POR15 adhesion. Remove all the rust you are able to first. POR15 cures by absorbing moisture out of the air, so once you open the can, pour as much as you are going to use in a separate container (I use kitchen Dixie cups) and get that cover back on the can ASAP. Make sure to completely wipe any POR15 from the lip and cover, because even the slightest drop will cause that lid to never come off again. You can't rinse out anything you use to apply POR15 - throw them out. I like using foam brushes. And wear gloves. Once POR15 touches your skin, even if you immediately wipe it off, your skin will be stained for at least a few days. POR15 will leave a glass-like finish, so you need to lightly sand the surface before any filler can be applied.
Thanks. I have been using POR15 for a while now and very happy with the over all results. And yes it has gotten on my hands and I had to pry the top off..strong stuff!
Sanded to metal and preparing for epoxy coat Here is the bar that goes between the t-tops. It was wrapped, not painted. So I removed the wrap and recovered it. Found a 3m product online and wrapped it. Very pleased with the outcome
So here is some more pics.
Big day coming! Going to paint the rest of the above this weekend. Then I can re-assemble FINALLY! No more parts all over my house hahaha. More pics to come soon!
welcome firebird.. prepping for paint done! this pic sends a chill down my back, to think it will look the same as it did when I bought it new, 30 years ago this past July.
Do you have a running tab on how much you spent between all the material, supplies and the paint?
I have a $2500 limit with out the 1200 dollar spray booth. Wasn't planning on rims and tires either. I am right around that mark now. But the interior was part of that. That I will have to budget out over the winter.
