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Its been several years in the making. But FINALLY I will be painting my car. I bought it new in 1989, all shiny and black. That cool 80s style FORMULA 350 on its sides. I am chomping at the bit to get this done. This site is a GREAT source of highly knowledgeable 3rd gen folks who are a great source of information. I am digging for original pics of it when it was new. Hope to put them up soon, then comes the restore pics and info. My goal is along with restoring her, is to also help others from my mistakes, triumphs and whatever in between. LONG LIVE THE THIRDGENS!!!
July 1989 Mt. Washington New Hampshire.
Here is a pic from mid July 1989. I was visiting my brother in New Hampshire. I drove it up to the top and had my best friend take this pic of me with it. Man.. 30 years ago... I had it for 2 weeks at that time. Sorry for the background, I have this hanging in my house and the glass reflected back.
thank you sir! So started sanding the rear bumper with a DA on my very weak air compressor, HA! thats not gonna happen. So I will be picking up a 60gal 3.7HP one from Lowes this weekend and wiring it in. I want to do this right!
Well I opted for a 60 gallon colbalt Air Compressor at Lowes. I can wire in the 220 circuit for it no problem. It should do the job for my DA and all paints. inching closer to getting this done.
I think I’ve decided I’ll be buying an electric sander because a da will keep the compressor cutting on and off. I’ve got two 30 gallons linked so I’m at 60 gallons too.
I think I’ve decided I’ll be buying an electric sander because a da will keep the compressor cutting on and off. I’ve got two 30 gallons linked so I’m at 60 gallons too.
thanks makes sense. Would like to know how you make out
So tools and parts are coming in almost daily. Now i have to pipe run electrical to my new 60 gal kobalt air compressor I got at lowes this weekend. Just so my family stuff going on its hard to get started. But I did some tonight, fitted my third brake light housing to thew new Hawks spoiler. Once I have the mounting worked out will start sanding, priming etc. it and several other parts.
So I got my air compressor in on Saturday. I just sanded the removed rear bumper, some DA and some hand, using 180 grit. Next is the new spoiler, front bumper and some smalls; head light covers, mirrors and back deck. Going to epoxy, then 2x build, sand, then paint. Put aside, move to quarter panels front, hood and doors, same as above. Then the back quarter, or rest of the car. Goal, done by August. Will get pics up ASAP.
Ok so here is an update, I sanded the bumper down to bare urethane, not completely done in this pic but it is now. I had to use 180 grit on the DA. Had to hand sand the tight areas.
Next was to prep the Hawks aerowing spoiler, I scuffed it up with 220 grit and then mounted the tabs after a call to Steve to confirm where to mount them. There is a flat area on both sides, see below.
Once I mounted the metal tabs, on when the spoiler:
Then the 3rd brake light housing:
All in all its a nice fit. I had to sand down the housing and match the curves so it would be a fairly tight fit. I have the original gasket and its in perfect shape so I will reuse it. When I spoke to Steve at Hawks, he said a guy had this same spoiler on his bird and when 217 mph using these tabs. And I have to say once I put them on the fit is pretty good. Hawks did a nice job on this thing.
So now I am in the process of taking off the front bumper. I will sand it down as I did the rear. 180 grit with the da, then hand sand with 320. Once that done, then sand down the head light metal covers and rear deck, epoxy coat all. I will do my best to document this all. Thanks for following and the well wishes! This site is a HUGE help on this project.
So the hood scoop had a rubber gasket. Any idea where i can get one or what I can use in its place? I had this in my hood scoop, I have the original block of plate but would love to find a honeycomb one like this again! Years ago when I had it repainted the body guy rivited on sheet metal to hold it together and covered it with bondo. Not this time! more of the damage I just welded it tonight with tool from Harbor Freight. Its holding well! A little South Park humor...fomone femoved fy face fand fips!
So the hood scoop had a rubber gasket. Any idea where i can get one or what I can use in its place?
It is an adhesive backed die cut foam. I have an NOS one but its going on a project. Really a roll of thin adhesive backed foam should work .
I'll try and post a pic of the nos one sometime.
I think those would look 10x better than the Formula wheels. I love those Hawks 17in PW7 replicas and the Corvette black Grand Sport replicas on these cars also. Black wheels going to look great on this car
Cool project! We are both restoring Birds at the same time, and I hope to be done by August as well. Check out my thread in the members firebirds section about fixing up a 1991 Trans Am for my dad..
It is an adhesive backed die cut foam. I have an NOS one but its going on a project. Really a roll of thin adhesive backed foam should work .
I'll try and post a pic of the nos one sometime.
Thanks for the info! I found the right tape/foam seal for it at Home Depot.
I think those would look 10x better than the Formula wheels. I love those Hawks 17in PW7 replicas and the Corvette black Grand Sport replicas on these cars also. Black wheels going to look great on this car
Yeah thats what I am thinking too. I love the simple look of these rims and the price is not bad!
Cool project! We are both restoring Birds at the same time, and I hope to be done by August as well. Check out my thread in the members firebirds section about fixing up a 1991 Trans Am for my dad..
First what are these for? they were inserted in the metal piece that is screwed into the front rubber bumper. I removed them and they are brittle. Not sure if I need them? Where the red arrow is pointing too. They sit behind the front bumper turn signal housings, 2 on each side.
And.. i just epoxy painted parts!! WHOOHOOO! Ahhh..... bumpers!!! Hawks thirdgen spoiler getting ready for new home! Yup! Removed the rear deck, EASY to do! some nice smalls, haha.
OK so what to do the rear window and deck. I found a GREAT video on YouTube, guy turning a formula into a KITT. Went into great details on the back window, deck, etc. Check it out....
This video embolden me to go for it. So off came the deck. When I am ready to sand down the gutter around the window I will take it off too and fix that metal wrap around bracket.
Next up is the 2x build primer after some bondo on my deck. Would anyone suggest using 2x build primer on the bumpers and fiberglass spoiler? I am debating if I should or not. It would clear up some minor imperfections. By the way, EASTWOOD products are AWESOME.
Last edited by Hawkeye1980; 07-08-2019 at 10:23 PM.
Ok some updates. First, I will be on a weeks vacation next week. So I wont be posting anything until I am back. Then it will get busy So I need some advice please! See below:
First here is the hood, I already sanded it down to metal, touched up the bondo and sprayed expoy on both sides. So there is a dent back when I had it painted in 1994. So I patched it up and now the paint process has begun. Next the the contouring primer.
So now I am removing the fenders. I have a new fender for the drivers side, has some rust on the lip. Plus both sides the bottom main attachment bolt was crushed flat. I was able to get the drivers side vertical, enough to get the bold out hopefully. The passengers side I had to grind it off. See below: Ok so here is the passenger side, the inside lip rusted away. So i am going to copy the drivers side, much better shape, and weld in a new back lip with a threaded nut. Is this what others do? If anyone has any pics of their repair work, much appreciated! Ok so this is the drivers side. Not the vacuum collector ball is loose. The 2 angle brackets that tie the fender to the body are gone. Passenger side is fine. Has anyone fixed this, welled in new angle iron, if so any pics please?
So I am going to order a drivers side new fender, just makes it easier to get this painted before end of summer. My bumpers, rear deck and some smalls are ready to go. Thanks in advance for following, and any advice!!
Sorry for delay, be away on vacation with family. I had ordered a right side fender being the original is a bit beat up, restore able but I want a nice easy fit and paint job. Will restore the originals and keep them for future if needed.
Gearing up to paint the high build later this week. Hope to have more pics as well.
Rear deck just go shot with Eastwood polyester build Hood just shot with the polyester build.
So working wit the polyester build from Eastwood. A bit challenging at first. Used a 2.0 tip. First batch I mixed, a little too much hardener, so it gelled up pretty quick. I called the product support yesterday and they confirmed I should use Acetone to thin it down a bit.
So today I added the Acetone, and BOOM! It worked! Came out great and nice heavy coverage. I am not doing the fenders with it. I have 2 new ones and just shot the epoxy coat on them. Need to bondo a tiny bit on one, small dings from shipping. Once these are sanded down I will shoot them, 2 fenders, headlight tops, rear third light housing, fornt/back bumpers and spoiler with the seal coat. Then on to 3 and 1 black paint from Eastwood!!
Then they get put aside and the real works starts, the rest of the car. strip it all down, sand it all down, and build it back up. New seals all around. I cant wait!
I do need some pointers on the buffing part. Once I shoot 3 coats Eastwood tech said I can buff out the parts. So what do you guys recommend for a buffing tool, and the 3 stages pads and wax for each one please? I am eyeing one from Harbor Freight.
I do need some pointers on the buffing part. Once I shoot 3 coats Eastwood tech said I can buff out the parts. So what do you guys recommend for a buffing tool, and the 3 stages pads and wax for each one please? I am eyeing one from Harbor Freight.
Find out how long you have to wait before buffing, since you won't be baking the clear, it may be rather soft for awhile and that can cause problems buffing. I've only used Makita and Dewalt so I don't know anything about the harbor freight buffer, but make sure its variable speed.
If I get any runs I sand them out with 600 - 1000 grit on a block. Then I DA sand everything down with 1500 grit wet or dry until its flat, paying extra attention to flattening out the dirt nibs, then 3000 grit wet. The 3000 isn't necessary but it makes it easier to buff out the 1500 grit scratches. I use 3m buffing compounds and pads. For lighter colors I use their white pad and buffing compound then the black pad and polishing compound. For darker colors I also use the blue pad and ultra polish compound after the black. Always make sure the buffer is spinning away from the edge, not towards it. Take your time, buffing a complete is going to take awhile. Don't use any wax on it for 6 months.
ZsTransAm, thanks man! I will order that kit for sure! I am painting it black so will follow accordingly. Eastwood tech support said I can buff 24 hours after top coat. But I may wait a couple of days to be sure.
So I blocked out the hood and rear deck with 400 grit, came out very straight. Had some sand through to metal but will epoxy coat them again, then onto the seal coat. Once done, TIME FOR PAINT! Cant wait to use my temp paint garage, will get more pics up ASAP.
Hoping to have many parts into the 3 in 1 black eastwood paint this weekend, bumpers, spoiler, new fenders, hood and rear deck. Just confirming what I need to buff this all out as well as sanding the painted finish prior to buffing. Will take pics!
Hoping to have these parts above and some others painted by tomorrow. fingers crossed. Will be blowing up my temp paint booth. Will take pics and upload.
Have you checked the tech sheets on how long you can wait to base parts after sealing them? I only spray PPG, but my shops sealer only allows a max of 24 hours after sealing before basing. After that you'd have to sand the sealer before basing. Probably some sealers allow more or less time.
As for a list of buffing materials:
For runs-
A small hard sanding block for sanding out runs
A tiny hard block for sanding out big runs (optional)
Razor blades for shaving off big runs (optional, and if you need to do this, ask me how before trying it, its not for beginners)
1000 grit wet, 600 grit wet in sheets that fit your block for sanding out runs (maybe 400 grit wet for extreme runs)
For the rest of the sanding and buffing-
A da sander
Water in a spray bottle
1500 grit wet or dry for the da sander
3000 grit wet for the da sander (optional but I highly recommend)
A variable speed buffer
Buffing compound and a buffing pad (either foam or wool)
Polishing compound and a polishing pad
Ultra Polish compound and ultra polish pad
3m Perfect-It clean and shine spray or something like it (optional)
Clean micro fiber towels
A ton of patience
In case I didn't mention it before, don't let your buffer hover over one spot to hard or too long, you will gouge up or burn through the fresh paint. Keep it moving slowly but steadily and be extra cautious around the edges. Hope this helps, good luck
ZsTransAm, THANK YOU for all that great info. According to Eastwood using their black 3:1 paint with built in clear coat. I have to sand it first with 1500, then with 3000 then buff out. They have an all in one buffing system that I will be using. Ice something or other.
I ordered a fine little block that takes out nibs, etc. I am hoping to not have any runs! None so far with the printer, high build and seal coats so far. Eastwood states for their primer sealer, I have up to 5 days to paint the top coat, or I will have to sand them down. I am going to wait so I can sand them with 600 before applying the top coat.
I ordered a soft sanding block for the corners, etc. I have a air powered DA that I am using to take it down to metal but I may look at a palm one that is less aggressive for the 1500/3000 sanding phase. What do you use?
I have all the detached parts, hood, fenders, bumpers, rear deck and some smalls are up to the primer sealed stage. I am going to let them dry for 5 days so I can dry sand them before top coat.
Now I am on the doors and mirrors. Will remove them from the car, sand to metal and build back up. My hopes is to top coat them and the parts above next weekend. Then put them aside in a safe space and tackle the back half of the car. Lots of work, hope I dont run out of summer before its done!
3 new fenders and the 30 year old bumper. All sealed waiting for final sand at 600 then on to top coat. this give me chills.... in a very goo way To shave or not too? I need a solid hide away am/fm antenna. Any suggestions?
Next years project, will do a body off restore on it. possible future project, needs lots of work. Bought it new for my wife in 1999. Its a really nice car. Rocker panels are gone, engine burning oil. But the interior is mint. Tough call. Love pontiacs.
Ah, your spraying single stage. I've probably buffed 5000 cars at this point, but I've never sprayed or buffed single stage so I can't be much help there. Just make sure you put enough material on there and don't sand more off than you have to. I use a 3m dual action random orbital sanded for buffing for sanding, they're under 200 bucks. A cheaper one would do the job fine for you though. A coworker of mine used a harbor freight one when he was starting out and it worked. I tried the Norton one stage buffing system years ago and didn't care for it. Couldn't get rid of the swirls on the black cars. Hopefully it works alright for you. Looks like youre doing a great job overall, props man!
Ah, your spraying single stage. I've probably buffed 5000 cars at this point, but I've never sprayed or buffed single stage so I can't be much help there. Just make sure you put enough material on there and don't sand more off than you have to. I use a 3m dual action random orbital sanded for buffing for sanding, they're under 200 bucks. A cheaper one would do the job fine for you though. A coworker of mine used a harbor freight one when he was starting out and it worked. I tried the Norton one stage buffing system years ago and didn't care for it. Couldn't get rid of the swirls on the black cars. Hopefully it works alright for you. Looks like youre doing a great job overall, props man!
thanks man. I painted a JEEP CJ-5 with PPG back in the early 90s, snow camo. It came out great, did not buff it. I cleared it with a satin finish. Haven't painted a car since, so this is a big test for me! I bought the harbor freight one due mostly positive feedbacks on it. Eastwood tech support has been solid for me as well, plus their online videos are very helpful.
I plan to lay down 3 medium coats and I am nervous because black paint is not forgiving. But I will give it my best and will take it slow on each stage. But I have to say I am very excited, the pics above are very satisfying indeed! Thanks for the support. This site is a plethora of great information, and i really appreciate it!
30 years old, gotta have some rust right? Bottom of drivers door outside bottom underneath
So am going to fiberglass and bondo it. I contimplated a replacement door but I need to keep some of the costs down. The door itself is fine otherwise.
Never heard of it until now. But I will give it a try for sure thanks! Gonna sand the whole door to metal and paint back up. I was wondering what to use to convert and stop the rust. Will check this out!
06-12-2019, 08:37 PM
So I need some advice please! See below:
