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So…the fuel pump is failing in my ‘88 IROC-Z. Been reading the debate between whether to cut an access panel to be able to replace the fuel pump from up top, or do it the right way, and drop the exhaust and axle.
It dawned on me the car is 33 years old, maybe someone had cut a hole in the past…but I wasn’t prepared for what I found:
They basically cut an 18x8.5” on three sides, folded the remaining sheet metal back, didn’t seal ANYTHING, then tack welded two metal straps to keep the metal down.
So, this leads me to a few questions.
Since it’s already there, is this enough to allow me to go ahead and replace the pump from above?
How do I fix this disaster CORRECTLY? I’m not adverse, since it’s already hacked up to put a removable door SEALED in place…or have the metal fixed…but that’s likely expensive, and I’d rather avoid doing that right now…might be a better thing to have done when the car is repainted in a year or two.
There are a few different fixes some say weld back together do it right others are more into making a nice door. Some people buy a pre fab door and weld it in place, others bold a new plate down. Unfortunately someone cut yours right at the part where the metal dips so you have no lip. I added a bunch of M6 nutserts in mine and then used the caulking like Honda uses on their fuel pump doors.
The way that was done I would either weld a flange all the way around or reweld the piece in place.
Well, the one “positive” is the hole is so large, I shouldn’t have any issue pulling the fuel pump out from up top. I’m replacing the fuel sender at the same time, so if they’re hacked the lines, there should be plenty of room to put it back the way it was built….right?
The Nutserts sound like a good idea. I’m probably going to use that idea for making some sort of framing, so the metal doesn’t rattle back there.
The thing I don't like about access panels in general has nothing to do with cutting a hole, but it is you have to cut the fuel lines to get the unit out of the tank.
It definitely wasn't done right, but it's probably not hurting anything the way it is. The other posted example is pretty good. I would NOT do any welding or cutting with your tank in though. Gasoline fumes are so incredibly explosive that one spark flying just right will ignite an explosion that will completely destroy your life. Any fix or repair that involves more cutting or welding MUST have the tank removed first for your safety. Here is one I did that turned out good. After replacing the fuel pump 3 times in a row I was very glad I did it.
You opened up the can of worms though. Now you get an earful from all the naysayers who will tell you your car is about to collapse because the fuel hatch is apparently the most critical structural portion of your car, and it's a miracle the thing hasn't folded like a tin can already....
The thing I don't like about access panels in general has nothing to do with cutting a hole, but it is you have to cut the fuel lines to get the unit out of the tank.
I installed a sniper system on a carb car so not a ton of choice.
It definitely wasn't done right, but it's probably not hurting anything the way it is. The other posted example is pretty good. I would NOT do any welding or cutting with your tank in though. Gasoline fumes are so incredibly explosive that one spark flying just right will ignite an explosion that will completely destroy your life. Any fix or repair that involves more cutting or welding MUST have the tank removed first for your safety. Here is one I did that turned out good. After replacing the fuel pump 3 times in a row I was very glad I did it.
You opened up the can of worms though. Now you get an earful from all the naysayers who will tell you your car is about to collapse because the fuel hatch is apparently the most critical structural portion of your car, and it's a miracle the thing hasn't folded like a tin can already....
Very true.
I especially like the compression fitting you have on the outlet. Much more secure than a rubber hose, and a clamp.
I’m replacing everything in the tank except the lock ring…including the pulsator, and will probably make up a compression fitting for my outlet as well.
As far as the hack job goes, I’ll fabricate something that fits well, and seals, or a proper frame that secures the two pieces properly.
. Most likely, I’ll use Nutserts to secure it properly.
My opinion: Regardless of whether you have an access or not, the existing one needs to be fixed. Remove the tank and weld a new piece of metal in. I have heard that the rear-end does not have to be completely removed (maybe just the the shocks) but you will have to drop the exhaust. If you still want an access after that, cut one in correctly and use AN fittings for the hoses. I like the previous pictures posted; with a cover plate screwed down rather than a door. I'd use the shortest screws possible so they can't possibly protrude into the top of the tank...
That is very surprising. I wonder if they cut the hole and could not figure it out. Or maybe later the tank was replaced and someone made it whole again
A personal choice I guess, but unless it was designed with an access panel, I could not comfortably drive a car with one added to it. Take advantage of it while it's there if you like, but I'd weld that thing up.
It definitely wasn't done right, but it's probably not hurting anything the way it is. The other posted example is pretty good. I would NOT do any welding or cutting with your tank in though. Gasoline fumes are so incredibly explosive that one spark flying just right will ignite an explosion that will completely destroy your life. Any fix or repair that involves more cutting or welding MUST have the tank removed first for your safety. Here is one I did that turned out good. After replacing the fuel pump 3 times in a row I was very glad I did it.
You opened up the can of worms though. Now you get an earful from all the naysayers who will tell you your car is about to collapse because the fuel hatch is apparently the most critical structural portion of your car, and it's a miracle the thing hasn't folded like a tin can already....
A personal choice I guess, but unless it was designed with an access panel, I could not comfortably drive a car with one added to it. Take advantage of it while it's there if you like, but I'd weld that thing up.
This is EXACTLY why there is no access pump hole. People who say it is ok to do an access panel have NO IDEA what they are talking about.
I really DGAF, burn to death for all I care. I just won't subject anyone else to that potential danger when MOST accidents are rear endings.
This is EXACTLY why there is no access pump hole. People who say it is ok to do an access panel have NO IDEA what they are talking about.
I really DGAF, burn to death for all I care. I just won't subject anyone else to that potential danger when MOST accidents are rear endings.
Tell us how you REALLY feel (LOL!!!).
I have no intention of cutting an access in my Firebird. I just like the screwed-on cover plate better than a hinged door. A buddy of mine did it to his thirdgens and fourthgens, and I gave him all sorts of crap about it. He also cut the hard lines and used rubber fuel hose to re-connect them.
I know dropping the tank is a hassle, but he's just plain LAZY and likes to cut corners wherever he can...
This is EXACTLY why there is no access pump hole. People who say it is ok to do an access panel have NO IDEA what they are talking about.
I really DGAF, burn to death for all I care. I just won't subject anyone else to that potential danger when MOST accidents are rear endings.
Clearly that crash was caused by an access pump hole. Any suggestion that something else might have caused all that damage is pure ignorance. And while we dont have any way of knowing that this smashed up car DIDNT have an access hole, it just could not have had one since it appears the driver probably survived...
There, I settled it for everyone.
I would recut the section where you have flat metal all the way around with no humps or ribbing. Then I would use what’s called Rivnuts and make myself a nice aluminum access panel that I can bolt down and seal the edges with a rubber or foam strip. I use rivnuts to install auxiliary tanks or to install things that need to be bolted through but there is no access to get a nut on the back side. I just did a dually fender install using those rivnuts.
ebay or Amazon has a complete kit for 50/70 bucks and it includes rivnuts and the tool.
I wouldn’t bother welding up the sheet metal. It’s already chopped up. And it would save you from dropping the tank to replace it if it goes bad. I never understood why domestics were so against a access hatch. Where imports all seem to do it
I never understood why domestics were so against a access hatch. Where imports all seem to do it
Because. It's. A. Safety. Issue. In. These. Cars!
Watch the 4th gen rear end crash testing. The "access" hole is directly over the weakest part of the tank in the crumple zone picture jumping on a full milkjug, the cap is going to come flying off and water go everywhere. That's the sender in the fuel tank
Watch the 4th gen rear end crash testing. The "access" hole is directly over the weakest part of the tank in the crumple zone picture jumping on a full milkjug, the cap is going to come flying off and water go everywhere. That's the sender in the fuel tank
no need to be a condescending AH with the reply bud. Why the face palm and the period after every word in the initial sentence. You can get your point across without being a AH. And then again….maybe you cant.
no need to be a condescending AH with the reply bud. Why the face palm and the period after every word in the initial sentence. You can get your point across without being a AH. And then again….maybe you cant.
Because it's common f-ing sense and people KEEP JUSTIFYING IT. THAT"S WHY THE FACEPALM. ID Ten T's EVERYWHERE
picture jumping on a full milkjug, the cap is going to come flying off and water go everywhere. That's the sender in the fuel tank 
