look at the subj.......plz respond!!!!!

 

first you must sand all the paint off the spot you are treating. then clean it. next you have to mix the bondo with the hardener that is provided. aply the bondo to the spot you are working on. allow it to try. then sand it smooth. you may have to repeat this process many time to get it straight. then prime it. double check the staightness of it. once it is painted you will see any inperfection there is. now you have to paint. it really isn't that hard. the best thing about bondo is if you screw up, just sand it down and start agian.

 

Hey get ahold of me. I will do body work on your whole car for you except paint in. Just stop by sometime and we will start.

 

Thats cool its just that if i do it now, i won't be ready to paint it till July ....but when its starts getting nice out like it s i'll be right over...!

 

We can do the body work now and just spray primer and some cheap paint over it that way we dont rush the body work later and all we will have to do it sand the paint a little bit. Thats how I did mine.

 

Any time you start a question with "How easy is it to..." you're basically wasting your time asking. Nobody knows what your capabilities are, and with most of that type of stuff, if you don't already know how to do it, your car isn't the one you want to learn on. Body work isn't cookie-cutter stuff. It requires finesse and skill that doesn't just happen on its own. There are many separate skills involved with making body work look good. I've worked with my father on my cars for years now, and there are some areas that I'm good at, and others where I'm still terrible. I can shape panels well, but my sanding skill sucks, so it's impossible for me to get a perfectly flat, ripple-free surface. My paint skills on small panels are great, but give me the gun and ask me to spray a whole car and it looks terrible. You'd think those two skills are one in the same, but they aren't.

My point is, if you don't already know how to do it, it's hard.

 

I put a 3" long .5" deep dent into my car in a parking garage last summer. I sanded, filled, primed, painted and polished it in less than an hour. This is not typical though. I was in a huge hurry because I was going to the track that night. (as a spectator)

 

Jim85....... THANK YOU for saying that........ I've been working at my friends shop for a couple of years now trying to pick up "the craft". The things I noticed is it's much harder than it looks and you're not going to learn from a book.

You need about 10 different skills to pull of a good job. Most people have talent in some of these areas and spend the next 20 years developing the areas that they are weak in.

So no matter how much knack or talent or determination you start off with. You're still a beginner and your job, most likely, will reflect that. It's real hard to get around it........ pro shops charge big money and they earn every penny of it.

 

Hey Mike,

What's the trick ith painting the rear bumper? Meaning no tape line. I have to paint the lower section with silver and upper with brown. What is the trick to no tape line? Or do I just get a line where the sticker covers it and tape there?


As for the issue of this post. Everything is easier said then done. Like the guys with experience have said it is a art. There is alot of tools required and practice is needed. I am currently doing a complete restoration on my 83 and doing most of the work myself(except for outside paint). Somehow I shot the rear filler panel perfectly. This had to be mainly luck. However I also sand blasted my impact bar and when I sprayed that I got a little crazing in the paint. This was probably because it was hanging by rope and not fixed to give me a clear shot and allow it to flow perfectly but there is more to it then guess work. PSI, water, distance all play into this, especially with metallic flake. Also the paint work is only as good as the prep! Good luck!

 

I have found no trick. You have your base color and then must tape off for your trim color. There will be a line on that division.

You can reduce the line by using high quality tape. And further the only trick I know is to clearcoat. With todays high solids you can get a pretty substantial thickness that will level the trim line.

 

That is what I was able to come up with and was afraid of. Thank *** it is only on the rear bumper and stripes will cover it. Thanks, Matt

 

I'll have to agree with Jim & Mike. Bodywork can be a pain and it's hard to master all areas.

Here's a pictoral of what I did to fill some holes left by a Lund sunvisor on a truck (similar to the dent you're aiming to fill). They are fairly self explanitory. The only thing I did that isn't in the pics is before I primed the roof, I used Galvaprime to cover the bare metal 1st. The same result can be fotten from getting a spray bomb can of cold galv compound from your local welders supply (I'd recommend ZRC) since you're only doing a small area.

(*warning to slow internet people... large pics.. slow load time)

http://www.deadbird.org/tech/stuff.htm