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Don't let this happen (brakes)

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Old Jul 8, 2003 | 01:22 PM
  #1  
Token's Avatar
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Don't let this happen (brakes)

I knew I was grinding metal-to-metal for a while, but I didn't expect it to be this serious. Here's a comparison of my old rotor with the new one...
Attached Thumbnails Don't let this happen (brakes)-rotorc2.jpg  
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Old Jul 8, 2003 | 01:26 PM
  #2  
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
wow.. you really let that go......

heh, on the outer banks of NC, you can drive on the beach.. well the salt water likes to make stuff rust...

ive seen trucks that had the center vains soo rusted that it CRUSHED the 2 rotors together when he hit the brakes.....

lol... your pic just reminded me of that...
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Old Jul 8, 2003 | 01:27 PM
  #3  
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From: Portland, OR www.cascadecrew.org
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt


wow, you must have been grinding for a while.
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Old Jul 8, 2003 | 06:26 PM
  #4  
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wow i never seen one that bad there must have been metal shavings everywhere. It must have made a terrible noise
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Old Jul 8, 2003 | 07:49 PM
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I've seen rotors like that many times before. Never ceases to amaze me.

I also ran across a front drum that only the face of the drum was rotating. It was like the drum was a flat frisbee. The friction surface was completely gone except for the small ring at the outside of the drum, and it was the only thing holding the shoes and pistons from falling off.

And the gal asked me is she could wait a few weeks until she got paid to fix it. I have to say I gave her a real ear full.
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Old Jul 8, 2003 | 08:00 PM
  #6  
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wow I mean Yuk! Or Phew.

Taking your breaks apart and finding something like that is one of those things that gives you that sick to your stomack feeling that is shortly after followed by the cold chill that runs down your back and the sweat beads on your forehead.

Glad you got that changed out before something serious happened.
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Old Jul 8, 2003 | 09:00 PM
  #7  
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From: Detroit, Michigan
Car: 04 Xtreme Blazer
Engine: 4.3L V6
Transmission: 4L60E
i used to have a 77 lincoln mark 5(yea, a pos ford, but it cost $100 and i drove it for 11/2 yrs, it had a 460, i hit a tree in the rain and sold it for $200) that, when I bought it, the left rear rotor was worn away on the outside and the outer pad was gone, so it was the piston of the caliper against the fins of the rotor
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Old Jul 8, 2003 | 09:12 PM
  #8  
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From: The State of Hockey
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
Holy lack of PM batman!!
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Old Jul 8, 2003 | 09:51 PM
  #9  
Token's Avatar
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
there was about 1/8" left on the backing of the pad when i took them out. And yes, there is rust dust all over the place (well it's dried to the car now... ive gotta detail it out )
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Old Jul 8, 2003 | 09:55 PM
  #10  
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From: Sandusky, OH
Car: 85 Trans Am
Engine: 305 Carb
Transmission: 700R4
How could you have tolerated the noise?
Just turn up the volume on the ol' stereo?
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Old Jul 8, 2003 | 10:15 PM
  #11  
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From: Bedford, Tx
iv seen many like that. one lady came in and her pad on the piston side was completely gone, the piston was rubbing on what was left of the rotor. fluid leaking everywhere.. the out rotor finally seperated form the hub when we pulled off the disc.
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Old Jul 8, 2003 | 10:35 PM
  #12  
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From: Centerville, Ohio
Car: '05 Pontiac G6
Engine: 3.5
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Axle/Gears: Slow lol.
Originally posted by breathment
iv seen many like that. one lady came in and her pad on the piston side was completely gone, the piston was rubbing on what was left of the rotor. fluid leaking everywhere.. the out rotor finally seperated form the hub when we pulled off the disc.
That happened to a free Toyota Tercel I had. Talk about driving till the wheels fell off. The brakes decided to fall first I guess, lol. Since brakes would have cost more than the car was worth, I took it to a car show for a car bash, a $1 for 3 swings, lol. Got $100 out of it.

I've done brakes on one car where they ran it till the fins were gone. Turned that **** into a solid rotor, lol. Now it's a "What not to do" display in the showroom, lol.
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Old Jul 8, 2003 | 11:28 PM
  #13  
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wow, i never had a rotor get that far wore out.
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Old Jul 9, 2003 | 10:45 AM
  #14  
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
<-- speechless

Glad to know you found it before anything life-threatening happened!!
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Old Jul 9, 2003 | 01:18 PM
  #15  
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From: Bedford, Tx
this one guy cam in to auto and showed me this break backing plate. so i figured the guy brought it in to match up new pads for his car. so i ask him front or rear, when he looks at me funny.. and then he ask me what it was that he was holding. then i looked at him funny and told him it was what remained of a break pad. he then began to tell me how that piece had fallen off his car while he was driving and he didn't know what it was!!! i told him that if that had fallen off his car that his brakes could fail and he immediatley needed to fix it. that he probably needed new pads, disc and maybe rotor.. he asked if it could wait till friday when he got paid.. i told him he needed to get the car towed to a shop and fixed. he said hed drive it home.. we all went to the window and watched waiting for him to wreck..
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Old Jul 9, 2003 | 01:23 PM
  #16  
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Car: 4
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Transmission: 5
There's a great use for those....

My late little brother had a car come into his dealership like that; the rotor was one of the "hat" type, no hub; he painted it black, painted the top of the remains of the fins with dabs of different colored paint, and mounted a $3 quartz clock movement in it..... few people ever guessed what the raw material fot the face had been
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Old Jul 9, 2003 | 01:50 PM
  #17  
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You know, as long as the bearing bores haven't been damaged, that rotor is a good start for a big brake upgrade
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Old Jul 9, 2003 | 07:06 PM
  #18  
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From: Centerville, Ohio
Car: '05 Pontiac G6
Engine: 3.5
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: Slow lol.
Speak of the devil

Well, since we were on the subject of half a rotor and all, I have a pic to share now, lol. Pulled the wheels on my new ride and looky what I got, lol. Good thing I didn't go driving around, I would have been back to where my old car was, lol. I guess I'll be installing some cross drilleds and carbon metallic pads sooner than I thought, lol.
Attached Thumbnails Don't let this happen (brakes)-brakes1.jpg  

Last edited by HanSoloWS6; Jul 9, 2003 at 07:10 PM.
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Old Jul 9, 2003 | 07:13 PM
  #19  
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From: Plano, TX
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: 406 Stealth Ram
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by machinist
You know, as long as the bearing bores haven't been damaged, that rotor is a good start for a big brake upgrade
LOL, yea, I guess that's one way to mill the braking surface off!
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Old Jul 13, 2003 | 11:01 AM
  #20  
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Token, I'll take those rotors off your hands as-is if Dan (Alloy/Machinist) hasn't talked you out of them first.

Let me know.


Ed
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Old Jul 13, 2003 | 12:31 PM
  #21  
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Ed,

I haven't asked him about them yet. The shipping for them would be about the same price as I can get used ones from the u-pull-it yard here. So, go for it!

I'm going to go and get a few sets of rotors and modify them so I'll have some in stock for that project I discussed with you

FYI-S10 2wd front rotors also work. So if you have buddies with S10's have them save the rotors for you.

Last edited by machinist; Jul 13, 2003 at 05:44 PM.
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Old Jul 13, 2003 | 05:20 PM
  #22  
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Ed,

I just got back from the u-pull-it yard and used rotors have went up I just paid $112 for 3 sets (6 rotors). Or around $18 each and I had to pull them.

Out of curiousity I just checked on shipping to ohio for 40 pounds (2 rotors) and it's $33.16 for UPS ground my cost even with my frequent shipper discount. So If you gave HanSolo0260 $5 or $10 each for his time in packaging them and paid $33 for shipping, you are within $5 to $10 of a new rotors from auto zone. So unless you can drive 10 minutes to get them, it's not worth it.

It was a good idea though.
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Old Jul 13, 2003 | 06:48 PM
  #23  
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
True... and thanks for the legwork there.


Ed
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Old Jul 13, 2003 | 09:00 PM
  #24  
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by machinist
Ed,

I just got back from the u-pull-it yard and used rotors have went up I just paid $112 for 3 sets (6 rotors). Or around $18 each and I had to pull them.

Out of curiousity I just checked on shipping to ohio for 40 pounds (2 rotors) and it's $33.16 for UPS ground my cost even with my frequent shipper discount. So If you gave HanSolo0260 $5 or $10 each for his time in packaging them and paid $33 for shipping, you are within $5 to $10 of a new rotors from auto zone. So unless you can drive 10 minutes to get them, it's not worth it.

It was a good idea though.

so the cost for you to make me some hubs would be roughly the same as new rotors?


sayy i needed the LS1 bracket and the hub.... i dont have any local machine shop access currently... how much?
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Old Jul 13, 2003 | 09:30 PM
  #25  
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From: Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Car: 1982 Trans Am
Engine: LG4
Transmission: 200C
Axle/Gears: 3:73
I can't understand how the noise didn't seem like it was going to blow up.
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Old Jul 13, 2003 | 10:20 PM
  #26  
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From: Washington State
Originally posted by MrDude_1
so the cost for you to make me some hubs would be roughly the same as new rotors?


sayy i needed the LS1 bracket and the hub.... i dont have any local machine shop access currently... how much?
The cost to modify old rotors into hubs is more than new 3rd gen rotors. About $40 more, $100 total. That's without studs in them and the wheel bearings knocked out ready for new bearings and studs. I pay $36 plus my time to go get the used rotors, and have to charge for machine time to modify them. Luke was quoted $100 to modify the rotors he already had. I only want $64 to do it. The rest of the $100 is my cost of the used rotors.

Remember, you can't just go out and buy a hub for this setup. Well, other than from Baer and they wanted $150 per bracket for C4 brake brackets. So probably $300 and up for the hubs alone from baer. It takes machine time to modify rotors, so that is the reason for the cost. I can go out and buy new rotors from auto zone for $30, and turn them into hubs, but why. That's a cost of $24 more for the set of hubs over using used rotors, and I can't really see the benefit in it.

I haven't done the LS1 bracket because the using the C5 rotor is so much more practical. As I said in the other post, the C5 rotor solves the bracket thickness problem, and you use a much smaller bracket that does not require you to cut the steering bump stop off. The Baer bracket design turns the brake bracket into the new bump stop. For me that just won't work. I hit my stops hard all the time and already have deep grooves worn into the spindles from the hitting the stops.

And, the LS1 updrade/bracket thing was Luke's idea, so I was letting him carry the ball on that. I'm going off in a completely different direction myself.

If necessary I can make the brackets, but I'm waiting to see what luke is up to.

Last edited by machinist; Jul 13, 2003 at 10:27 PM.
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Old Jul 17, 2003 | 03:35 PM
  #27  
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From: Lo$t Angele$
Car: 1987 Chevy Camaro Z28
Engine: 305, 4bbl, A/C, T-Tops
Transmission: 700R4 4speed Automatic
HOLY S..T!!! I've been neglectful on my maintenance at times, but nothing like this...

Last edited by Tibey; Jul 21, 2003 at 11:35 PM.
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Old Jul 18, 2003 | 11:28 AM
  #28  
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Car: 1989 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: L98 350 TPI
Transmission: Built TH-700 R4 (Vilgilante 2800)
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt w/ PBR's
Well at least you got your moneys worth out of it!! lol

Kevin
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Old Jul 21, 2003 | 09:08 PM
  #29  
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we had a customer one time ( a real oldtimmer) he called saying his brakes were grinding and he needed a brake job that day. So to save his rotor, THis is not a joke, he removed the pad that was grinding and instead wasted a caliper and a rotor. I don't know how he made it, fluid was pouring out when he pulled up!
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Old Jul 21, 2003 | 10:02 PM
  #30  
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From: Concord, NC
Car: 86 IROC-Z
Engine: Superramed 355 w/ intercooled T72
Transmission: T56 -=- www.iroc-ss.com
OMG, I have never seen such abuse on a rotor. holy sheet!
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Old Jul 21, 2003 | 10:35 PM
  #31  
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Lock, I have got to see your car sometime.


Ed
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