what the heck is up with my brakes?
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Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 563
Likes: 0
Car: 1983 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH350
what the heck is up with my brakes?
can someone please tell me y most of the time when i first start up my car the next day my brakes work like 5 times better then normal for 15min or so?? they will stop like on the dot, easy to make them lock..ect, they perform how they should. but after 15 min or so of driveing they go back to i guess whats normaly for me ($hitty). Were i need to press so hard on the pedal, stopping on a dime at a slow speed is next to impossible...ect, but in the morning i can stop on a dime at low speeds amazingly well. can someone please tell me whats going on?? i would luv to get my brake like that all the time.
last year when i got this car all the brakes were shot, drums and rotors had big deep scratchs from not haveing any brake pads left and 1 caliper had to be replaced.
i replaced everything with new parts but put used drums on to save $$ (still cost me a lil over 300 for everything includeing install)
could this issue have anything to do with useing used drums??
last year when i got this car all the brakes were shot, drums and rotors had big deep scratchs from not haveing any brake pads left and 1 caliper had to be replaced.
i replaced everything with new parts but put used drums on to save $$ (still cost me a lil over 300 for everything includeing install)
could this issue have anything to do with useing used drums??
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
From: Aurora, ON, Canada
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 4 Spd Auto
Ive got the same kind of problem. My braking power disappears on me. Im wondering if its because oh my low idle when I stop or am going slowly.
Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,786
Likes: 1
From: Paxton, MA
Car: 1987 Camaro Z28
Engine: 335 TPI Stroker
Transmission: Tremec TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt / 3.42
Same here, I beleive its because of my low idle. I also have rear drums which isn't helping any...
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 713
Likes: 1
From: shawnee, ks
Car: 87 Firebird
Engine: 5.3 76mm
Transmission: Rossler TH400, PTC converter
Axle/Gears: Strange 12bolt, 3.08s
i know my aV-6 does it, and what it sounds like, is its the fade effect on the breaks. U know when cold they will have a high friction rate VS when they are warmed up they take more presser to create ths ame friction. To make it sticky all the time, u need something that resist fadeing and loseing that Coefectent"sp" of friction, meaning differnt break rotor compounds, but mostly coatings, and venting in the breaks, ie Sloted rotors, and Drilled rotors all experince less fade.
I used to have the same problems many years ago. I had factory front disc rear drums. Never needed to touch the drums other than the occassional adjustment.
I always used the cheap pads, or mid-grade pads, and cheap rotors if I even replaced the rotors. I got tired of the noise, pedal feel, and pad life. An entire brake system bleed helped slightly, but not much. Hose replacement made no difference. I ended up spending some money on Bendix Titanium pads and rotors. Wow! What a difference! It's been 2 years and almost 20K miles since I put them on. Pads are still at 9mm. No noise or fade other than high speed hard stops, but that's due to the small inefficient design. Pedal feel is good. Highly recommended.
You get what you pay for.
I always used the cheap pads, or mid-grade pads, and cheap rotors if I even replaced the rotors. I got tired of the noise, pedal feel, and pad life. An entire brake system bleed helped slightly, but not much. Hose replacement made no difference. I ended up spending some money on Bendix Titanium pads and rotors. Wow! What a difference! It's been 2 years and almost 20K miles since I put them on. Pads are still at 9mm. No noise or fade other than high speed hard stops, but that's due to the small inefficient design. Pedal feel is good. Highly recommended.
You get what you pay for.
Last edited by Marc 85Z28; Jul 11, 2004 at 06:12 PM.
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Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 563
Likes: 0
Car: 1983 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH350
so basicaly are stock brakes sucks,
well thats just great, thats one more thing i have to upgrade lol. ya everything on my brakes are stock also. if i want that stopping power 24/7 do i have to upgrade everything?? or can i just put on better pads?
i want to do this as cheap as possible, what do i do?
well thats just great, thats one more thing i have to upgrade lol. ya everything on my brakes are stock also. if i want that stopping power 24/7 do i have to upgrade everything?? or can i just put on better pads?i want to do this as cheap as possible, what do i do?
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,621
Likes: 2
Car: 91 Red Sled
Axle/Gears: 10bolt Richmond 3.73 Torsen
Same problem and I think rust on glazed rotors is a factor not to be ignored. A glazed rotor happens with crappy pads and the result is a very slick rotor surface... in the morning dew rust gives the rotors a more abrasive surface but short lived. I know this is what happens with my car but I can't get 15 minutes worth of awesome brakes, more like 4 or 5 stops and it's back to it's crappy self.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 896
Likes: 1
From: Coquitlam, BC
Car: 86\92 Mutant
Engine: 355CI 430HP
Transmission: T-5 with mods
Axle/Gears: 7.625", Eaton Posi, 3.73
This may seem odd...but change the little air filter ( black plastic canister ) that goes between the booster hose and booster valve. This sometimes gets so clogged with dirt that after a few brake applications the booster cannot recover vaccuum in time for the next brake application. Also replace the booster valve. Cheap insurance.
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
From: Aurora, ON, Canada
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 4 Spd Auto
This is a dumb question but where and how to you check engine vacuum?? Im assuming you need a gauge but where can you hook it upto?
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