Hi Guys,
We finished the install of the new front suspension and new front Baer Track kit on my car last weekend.
The new suspension parts look great and the brakes looks so kewl!
The only issue now is that the brakes have kicked out the front wheels a bit. Since my car is slammed (front wheels tucked in fender) this poses a problem!

Here are the solutions I am thinking of:
1: Switch rear rims to front (diff offsets)..have not tried this yet.
2: Raise the car a bit (this will be my last option)
3. Buy new rims with diff offsets to compensate for the baer brakes.
4: Roll the fenders (my fenders have already been rolled a bit b4..i wonder how much more i can go?

Can anyone else think of any other ideas?

It took us about 7 hrs (including lunch break) to assemble the front end (new a-arms..etc) and front brakes in the hot california sun. Then to find out my rims will rub the fender...I feel like pullin my hair out.

We haven't even started with the rear install yet...I really hope I don't have the same problem there.

Tommy

 

i got an option for ya , but i dont know how much your willing to spend to fix it. What it you got an air ride suspension like kandied. That would fix your problem and allow you to lower it at shows and when parked. Other than that , i dont know, what offset and how wide of rims do you have.

 

did u try moving the car yet... sometime the wheels end up like \ / <- that when there off the ground.... roll it a lil and they should be like / \ or something to that effect

 

Thanks for the suggestion...Have not really rolled the car yet.
I think I can get away with it if I dial in the front with alot of negative camber, but my passenger tire is already wearing thin on the inside from too much negative anyway.

Why can't working on cars be easy?

Tommy

 

cause there is the term WORKING involved

 

If the rims have different offset, I'd try switching fr to rear before I tried anything other mods or alignment settings. Be sure to steer the wheels lock to lock to make sure that you have plenty of clearance.

 

Roll the fender some more........

Don't give up that sweet stance of yours......

 

Roll the fender some more........

Don't give up that sweet stance of yours......

 

I don't know how safe this would be or how much material is on the inside of your wheel, but if it isn't too much you might could have your current wheels' hub flanges machined thinner so they would sit in the fender more deeply.

just another possibility, maybe cheaper than buying a whole new set of wheels.

 

Hmmm..that is a great idea Rembrandt! I will definetly look into this option!
Man...I don't know what I would do w/o you guys!

Tommy

 

No problem. Also consider wheel spoke-to-caliper clearance in case it is already really close.

So the track kit, that comes with two-piece rotors, like with aluminum hats and iron rotors right? Four piston calipers?

I'm trying to figure out what to get for once I get bigger brakes. I like the Spohn Wilwood kit but the rotors are solid iron, and I would like to use the significantly lighter two-piece rotors.

 

didn't baer tell you that the setup moves your wheels out 1/8-1/4" in some cases?

i had to have my offsets built off of that slight movement to keep everything in line. one of the reasons as well as they were what they were so i could tuck the wheels with the air ride.

sorry to hear about your troubles, unfortunately besides mofifying your fender or ordering another wheel your options are rather limited.

 

Well...started on the rears today...them fckuin brackets don't fit to the axle housing..they are too small!
Then, the rotors do not sit correctly on the axle ends..the fuken flanges need to be cut down.
Off to the machine shop again...*** mang...this is a pain in the ***.

Tommy

 

Are you upgrading a drum rear? I think most of the time the axle flanges need to be turned down.

 

I think the ideal solution can be found in THIS THREAD

Dean thinks he is going to have to run a spacer with those hubs, to get the correct offset. It appears as though those hubs don't 'stick out' as far.

 

If he doesn't like fabrication, this is not the way to go. I stated above that I knew ahead of time about the fact I have to mill the inside of my rims to fit these new hubs, the hubcentric area of the GW hubs is a larger O.D.. His aftermarket 18" Irocs are the same offset front and rear (aftermarket doesn't make the factory"fronts" and "rears" like the OEM Irocs) I run four rears on my car so I can rotate. I run the front spacer(current 1/4" to clear the calipers with a rear on the front (With 2 1/2" arp racing studs). It looks like I won't need the spacer for clearance on my new setup (Not certain till the caliper is fitted, parts are in route as we speak) but It will sit somewhere between a 1/4" and 1/2" inboard when finished so I may space it back out slighty to get my existing track width, then mill the rims to the hubs with the desired space fitted.

 

sorry to hear about all your work.....mine was a disc to disc setup so it was a bolt on and go.

 

man, how DID you get that stance? springs? cut springs? drop spindle? do you have eibach sports on?

 

Hello my friend...they are a simple spring cut...although they are rated at 800lbs in the front and 160 in the rear. They are very tough, yet they keep the car from bottoming out.

Tommy

 

who makes them? stock is only 580lbs! did you cut them yourself? how many coils? got to know.

 

wdigitog, when you cut coils off a spring, it raises the rate but I can't seem to remember why at the moment, I think its because theres less spring or something. Can someone enlighten me? To keep on topic, maybe airride?

 

The rate of a cut spring goes up slightly- but the frequency goes up dramatically. I'll explain what that means-

Lets take the example of the 560lb stock spring. You then cut a half a coil off of it- the rate will go up to about 600lbs at most.

The frequency is how quickly the coil will cycle. The stock spring when compressed 1" and the released (without being dampered by a shock absorber) may have a compress and release (One cycle) rate of 1.2 seconds. Now but cutting that spring, the frequency of a cycle will increase in speed to maybe 0.9 secs. Thius now causes the car to load and unload the at a higher frequency and in a sence dance over the pavement after a bump. A very good shock absorber (such as Koni, or Bilstien) can sometimes handle the higher frequency rate and dampen it when a Monroe would not- but theres a point where even they can't over dampen a spring cut too much.

When you go to a stiffer coil such as an 800, that 800# coil is designed at a higher rate, BUT not a higher frequency! The 800 coil can still have the 1.2 sec cycle that the 560# coil has if designed with the proper amount of coil windings as opposed to hieght of the coil.