Ok, well I redid my brakes about a month ago and foolishly allowed the MC to completely empty. Well to no surprise, but my own, my braking was about on par with what I had before with my worn out components. After doing a bit of questioning, I was told that you could bleed the MC on the car by tilting it forward to allow all the air to the top. Well did that a couple of times, went so far as to park my car on a steep incline to get the MC as "level" as possible while pumping the piston in the MC but still no luck....still has poor braking. What would be the proper way to get all the air out of my system? I'm not against taking my MC off and "bench bleeding" it, but how does that work? Could someone shed a little light on my situation?

 

Here's a side view of your master cyl.... the little circles are the holes where the lines hook up.... as you can plainly see, the shaded area is above the line fittings, and will trap air, and NEVER bleed as long as the cyl is on the car. You simply have to get it level. If you do it on the car, you can raise the rear as high as conveniently possible by whatever means, unbolt the cyl and the PV, bend the lines over a little to where it's sitting level, and just kind of gently diddle the piston in and out while tilting it very slightly first one way and then another; and you'll get the air to come out into the reservoir through the little fill hole.

 

Tilting which ways exactly? I basically backed my car up my driveway and let it sit facing down, jacked the rear end up as high as I could get it with stands, and unbolted the MC from the PV and pumped the piston in and out quite a few times. I didn't see any air bubbles at all so I didn't know if I had done it right. I did make sure to get the MC "level" or as close to it as possible without kinking the lines from bending it too far, basically what you outlined in my first post about the brakes. I guess I'll give it another shot and see what happens. Should I be pumping the piston in and out all the way, or just "diddle" it like you said, move it in and out just a little? Will I feel a pressure build up once the air starts coming out?

 

I just put a new M/C on too, bench bled it twice now, each time air somehow keeps getting sucked back in from the line after starting the normal bleeding process.
I start beeding in the back where I have solo bleeders, that part seems to go fine and start to feel a little pedal pressure. But when I get to the front I find that air bubbles have got into the larger rear reservoir for the front brakes, which means again having to remove it and bench bleed it. The second time I tried cracking the lines at the master and having the pedal pushed slowly to beed some air which it did. But again air got back into the reservoir.
How do I keep this from happening and get the brakes bled properly?

 

I wish I could help you out. I keep having the same problem. For some reason, I can't seem to get whatever air there is in the system out and I still have less than adequate braking. I'm just gonna take it to a shop next week and tell them about the possibility of air in the MC and just watch how they do it so I know for sure what I was doing wrong and to have my brakes work properly. Good luck

 

Good luck taking it to a shop, I took my car to two shops and neither on would work on it because they're afraid of a law suit since I put the M/C on the car. I just wanted them to bleed the brakes.
My plan now is to get solo bleeders for the front, bench bleed the M/C again then just open all for bleeders and pump the hell out of it until it's clear of air.

 

This would explain alot for me. I foolishly bled the master while it was installed on the car and have had poor braking perfomance ever since. I replaced all 4 corners, slotted and drilled rotors, rebuilt cals, earls ss lines, freshpads, and it stops worse than it did bone stock. Horrible braking. I am in the process of swapping to C4's so I will remove the master and bench bleed her, then I want to try bleeding the brakes with the back end of the car jacked up higher. Perhaps that would allow some more air out. I know I bled the car maybe 5-6 times before taking it to a shop for them to use a pressure bleeder, and boy was that a waste of money.

Will

 

What, taking it to the shop and having them pressure bleed it? I am gonna try that as my next resort if nothing else works. But yeah, after replacing everything up front, I have worse braking performance than before I changed everything. Live and learn.

 

It was a waste of money in the sense that it did little if nothing to improve the situation. Now my brakes will lock, but there is no inbetween. It will go from no feel to like an instant lock. It won't set the car down, just skid. ****ing scary is what it is.

Will

 

Got mine done yesterday and their working much better now. It took three trips to earl's to finally get the right solo bleeders, they had the wrong ones in the pkg's.