I have searched and there are many way, so I want to know what would work best for me. I have to replace the front calipers and change out flex lines. I have read about gravity bleeding and speed bleeders and also the two person process. I have come to the idea that gravity or two man method should work for me. Questions When gravity bleeding do you guys like to have the calipers on or off the car. Same thing with two person process. When I gravity bleed do I have to do fronts both at one time or can I do one side and then other. Yes I have never done this before always had newer cars with good breaks and took the easy pad change method. Well know I have a frozen caliper on pass side and need to replace calipers and have a set of earls front flex lines. Any tips and tricks to changing out lines and bleeding would be great. I just don't want to pay a arm and leg to have someone else do because it doesn't sound hard if you have time. I started spraying the hard break line nut to flex line with pb blaster. The car has seen little to no snow/salt so they are not to rusty. Thanks in advance

 

Go for the gravity bleed. One side then the other. Also, tap on the caliper with a plastic mallet (large screwdriver handle works too) while bleeding it. Knocks the air bubbles off the sides of the caliper bore. I would mount the calipers first.

One thing to make sure of is to not run the master cylinder empty. Do this and you will be taking it off for a bench bleed.

RBob.

 

Thanks for the response. I have read that gravity bleeding is good for inital bleed. Is it a good idea to do a two man bleed once the gravity bleed is done and settled. Or have you guys had good luck just gravity bleeding a leaving it alone. The car is see's light to moderate use. No autox or drag. How many bottles of break fluid do you guys have on hand with bleeding. I want to make sure I have everything on hand. I dont care for middle of job part store runs if I don't have to.

 

Gravity works fine all by itself. You don't need the 2nd person.

One word of caution: DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, ALLOW THE MC TO RUN DRY!!!! The whole job is a total piece of cake as far as the hydraulics are concerned, AS LONG AS THE MC GETS NO AIR IN IT. Things get to be more hassle if it does.

Golf tees make excellent plugs for brake lines.

You shouldn't need more than a couple of ounces of fluid, unless you decide to go for a complete fluid change; in which case, a quart is enough.

 

Since this is my first time bleeding I might have friend or wife stand by mc with bottle of fluid to make sure I don't run the mc dry. I realy don't want to cause more work then needed. Plus I have read process of bench bleeding and doesn't sound like much fun. I have alot of other things I will be doing in next couple weeks don't want to be fighting with breakes. I should have some time on tuesday during day so I will let you know how it goes. I don't mind doing the work just want to know what I am getting myself into. I want to try to have all my work done before early may want to enjoy summer driving season.

If you guys care so far this year I have replaced shocks struts and springs. sway bar bushings and endlinks, New rotors and bearings, rear control arms and panhard replaced with lakewoods. New tire's and oil change. Things still to do are flex lines and calipers and rear end drain inspection and refill.

 

Well the brakes went fine thanks for the help. Bleed all the old nasty fluid out and replaced calipers. Put the new flex lines on. After all this work starting to like the way this car rides. For anyone that doesn't have the money to upgrade refreshing everything on your car helps alot.