I have a 1987 Z28 and i have noticed that when i jam on my brakes the pedal gets tight and it feels like the car won't stop(but does slow down but not fast enough like it should.)....when i really jam on it like any other car it should skid but it doesn't do that either....what do you think could be wrong with my brakes....it has full fluid in the master cylinder.....need help with that.....thanks

 

TTT

 

TTT help!

 

Check the vacuum brake booster.

 

how hard is that to check?

 

After shutting the car down, there should be enough vacuum in the booster to get one or two pumps on the brakes before the pedal becomes rock hard. If it's hard right away, unplug the booster hose while the car is running and see if it has vacuum. If there's vacuum at the hose, the booster is bad. If there's no vacuum at the hose, check the hose for leaks.

 

I went thru the same problem. My mechanic checked everthing including new pads. He ended up going to a brake pad that was used in the ford cobra and it solved the problem.


The pads are starting to loose some grip but they were installed over 20k miles ago.

I think he said the other pads had a glazing problem.

I am think of upgrading the brakes, but I have the GTA style wheels

 

cobras take a 154 pad?

 

I'm having a similar problem, I just ripped around town for a few minutes and when I parked it, I pumped the brakes a few times. I got like 4-5 pumps out of it. however, everytime I did there was a noise sounding like air escaping somewhere.... any ideas? Maybe I need to replace the lines?

 

How would the kind of pads one use affect how the brake pedal depresses?

 

The pedal was a little stiff. However, The main problem was the car would not make a sudden stop. It wanted to keep on going

Had a close call on the freeway. Both feet on the break pedal and pushing hard. Could not come close to locking up the brakes. Still won't but stops alot better.

While working on the problem, my mechanic consulted his shop partner. His partner specilazis in classic mustangs (including cobras). When the problem was resolved he told me he went to "cobra" brake pads. I made an assumption they were "Ford Cobra". My bad.

 

have u checked ur brake hoses for cracking? mine stopped like urs does. new hoses fixed the problem for me.

 

air in the brake hoses? Need bleeding?

 

Brake hoses are ok...no leaks...i had to park the car (needs NJ inspection but won't pass) i'll take it out tomorrow and see how shes doing

 

kinda old...but...what about the master cylinder?

 

try the power break booster.. i had the same thing happen and thats what it was...

 

i checked my fluid all the time and it gets lower very slowly over the days.....i filled it up last sunday to the top and now its a little below full.....WHERES MY FLIUD GOING!?!?!?!?!?! no leaks NOTHING! i can't figure this out at all. HELP

 

TTT

 

how old are teh calipers? possibly leaking out of the cylenders slowly if there old? if ur fluid is going down there has to be a leak somewhere. its all process of elimination now.

 

Pull your booster vacuum line out and feed about 1 foot of a small chain into the hole and see if the booster has fluid in it. Although rare on GM cars master cylinders occasionally leak fluid from the rear seal. That would explain the hard pedal too!

 

today i was stopping and i put my foot on the brake and it was stiff then went to normal. I have no clue im ganna try those to ideas though. thanks guys

 

i did that and the car almost stalled so i put my finger over the hose and it ran fine....then stuck it back on the booster....im pretty sure the booster is bad. How much do they run and how hard is it to install?

 

i got a Jyard booster for around 20 bucks, Theirs 6 bolts, 4 under the dash, 2 connecting the MC to the Booster, Just unbolt the MC from the booster, and push it aside, be carefull that you dont bust a line or you will have to bleed the system. once your under the dash with the underdash pannels out, disconnect the rod going to the break pedal (no the pedal itself the rod that is comming out of the firewall) Then take out the 4 bolts that are on the firewall that connect the break booster to the firewall, Same area where that rod is at. Pay attention to how the rod goes on to the break pedal and how the clip that holds it on is on the pedal itself. Installing the new/jyard booster is the reverse of takeing the booster out, Allso its a great time to paint the booster to get rid of that ugly golden color

 

thanks....i'll post results