can't get rear pads to stop rattling
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 960
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From: Wichita KS
Car: 1987 GTA/1998 Explorer
Engine: 355, trick flow heads, zz409 cam, 3
Transmission: 700r4, shift kit, valve body
Axle/Gears: precision 3.73's, auburn diff
can't get rear pads to stop rattling
i bought some permatex "disc brake quiet" at autozone, sort of a goop you spread lightly on the back of the pads, i assumed it would dry hard like ultrablack does and stick the pads to the rotors, but they're still rattling. did i maybe not put it on thick enough?
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From: Yes I'm Dean
Car: Agood2.8,
Engine: V6rsr,
Transmission: Afrikingoodtime
Bend the pad tabs using a set of channel lock pliers shown in picture.
The tabs are where the yellow circles are. place the plier jaws on the green marks and cinch the tabs snug against the caliper.
I found in the past that it helps to lut the stop squeak goo under the tabs also before cinching.
The tabs are where the yellow circles are. place the plier jaws on the green marks and cinch the tabs snug against the caliper.
I found in the past that it helps to lut the stop squeak goo under the tabs also before cinching.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 960
Likes: 1
From: Wichita KS
Car: 1987 GTA/1998 Explorer
Engine: 355, trick flow heads, zz409 cam, 3
Transmission: 700r4, shift kit, valve body
Axle/Gears: precision 3.73's, auburn diff
its a pita to do that on the inner pad huh
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From: Iowa
Car: 1986 IROC, 2017 Silverado
Engine: 7.0L, 6.2L
Transmission: Tremec Magnum, 8L80
Axle/Gears: 3:23, 3:55
Make it easy on yourself and take the caliper off its mount to do it. I bent the top tabs on the brake pads down, before I put them on the caliper.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 960
Likes: 1
From: Wichita KS
Car: 1987 GTA/1998 Explorer
Engine: 355, trick flow heads, zz409 cam, 3
Transmission: 700r4, shift kit, valve body
Axle/Gears: precision 3.73's, auburn diff
ok now im really confused. i've got hawk hps pads and stock iron calipers. the outer pads are straightforward, no biggie, just bend the tabs. the inners, have no tabs. theres is basically just wings that come up on either side of the caliper. should i stick the inner pads in a vice clamp and bend the wings closer to each other? i just can't really see any way other than that to do it, and then im concerned about getting them too close together and having them stick. or shall i just slop a bunch of the goop on the insides of the wings and call it good?
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From: Yes I'm Dean
Car: Agood2.8,
Engine: V6rsr,
Transmission: Afrikingoodtime
No. Nothing can be done with the inner pads. Its an inherent defect in design. They will rattle even with the piston clips properly installed.
It is one of two main resons why I ended up building my own Wilwood brake setup on the front and going to the Wilwood 4thgen kit on the rear. The other reason was I kept warping the 10.5" rotors due to heat and pad buildup.
Here's the rest of the picture above.
It is one of two main resons why I ended up building my own Wilwood brake setup on the front and going to the Wilwood 4thgen kit on the rear. The other reason was I kept warping the 10.5" rotors due to heat and pad buildup.
Here's the rest of the picture above.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 960
Likes: 1
From: Wichita KS
Car: 1987 GTA/1998 Explorer
Engine: 355, trick flow heads, zz409 cam, 3
Transmission: 700r4, shift kit, valve body
Axle/Gears: precision 3.73's, auburn diff
ok i did what i could, put a bunch of that crap on the rotors, and where the wings contact the caliper. still the rattling. the pads contact the rotor flat on the drivers side, the both front brakes, but on the rear passenger side, even though i've installed the pads 3 or 4 times, everytime they only contact on the top part of the pad. maybe 1/3 of it actually touches the rotor. they sit at a pretty good angle to the rotor. what gives? even with brakes on, same thing. should i just wait until they wear down where the pads are an an angle too and say screw it, or is this some sort of caliper problem?
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