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Any way to bleed brakes without opening bleeder screw?

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Old Jul 29, 2005 | 06:51 PM
  #1  
Th33nforcer's Avatar
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From: Somewhere in Paradise
Car: '88 Camaro
Engine: 2.8L - V6
Any way to bleed brakes without opening bleeder screw?

Is there anyway to bleed the brake system without opening the bleeder screws? I just replaced a line and took out the M/C and prop valve. I'm going to bench bleed the m/c but is there anyway to bleed the rest of the lines without removing the bleeder screws and going to each wheel?
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Old Jul 29, 2005 | 10:32 PM
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IHI
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
Engine: pump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
Automatic bleeders, had a hard time once bleeding the brakes on the old set-up after soem changes, so went and bought 4 automatic bleeders, you just loosened a bit (if I remember correctly) and sit in the car and pump till your hearts content.

Easiest bleed job I ever did after installing them and worth it (to me) the $8/ea I paid.
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Old Jul 30, 2005 | 12:02 AM
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From: Spicer, MN
Car: '83 Berli, '84 Berli, '84 Z28 HO
Engine: L69, LG4, L69
Transmission: TH700-R4, TH700-R4, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08, 3.08, 3.73 Posi
another way (depending on brake setup) is if you have disc brakes remove enough fluid from the master so that you can press the push the caliper pistons in without over flowing the master. Once it is pushed all the way in to where you can remove it and change the brakes, put it back on, fill the master up a little bit (just to make sure you do not suck air at all) and then apply the brake.. Technically you have kept fluid throughout the system without allowing air to get into it, which makes needing to bleed them obsolete. Have done this with my two running camaro's three times each and never a problem. even did it on a sunfire without problems.
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Old Jul 30, 2005 | 06:57 AM
  #4  
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From: Somewhere in Paradise
Car: '88 Camaro
Engine: 2.8L - V6
Angelis83LT - I don't think this will work for me, since I'm changing the lines...so the lines are full of air, not fluid.

IHI - Thanks for the advice, I saw some Earls solo bleeders for like $9 a piece. You still have to go to each wheel though, right? I was hoping for some way that I could have the car on the ground and just bleed the system just after the combo (prop) valve.

Also, on a personal note, what part of Iowa are you from? I lived there for 23 years of my life in NE IA in a small town called Independence (about 45 minutes north of Cedar Rapids).
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Old Jul 30, 2005 | 07:19 AM
  #5  
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
Engine: pump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
You still have to crak each bleeder 1 at a time like always, but the buddy system of pump/hold/crack/close is all done, just open and pump till your legs sore Honestly dont know if it's possible to bleed all 4 at once, imagine if they can the system would be costly.


Live in Elk Run, little suburb east of waterloo/west of Raymond, Jesup, and Indy
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Old Jul 30, 2005 | 08:50 AM
  #6  
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From: Somewhere in Paradise
Car: '88 Camaro
Engine: 2.8L - V6
Cool...I'll have to pick up some of those bleeders. Since I'm replacing the wheel cylinders and calipers I guess it wouldn't be too much extra work to bleed each one...I just hate having to bleed each one...and then bleed the m/c...it'd be nice if I could do it in the reverse order, but I think air would get trapped in the m/c if I did and I'd have to re-bleed it.

Elk Run...yeah I used to eat at the truck stop there all the time when I commuted from Indee to UNI...my parents still do when they go to Crossroads...small world.

Thanks for all the help!
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Old Aug 22, 2005 | 04:53 PM
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From: massachusetts
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Engine: Gen I 408
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there is a tool that allows reverse bleeding from the MC but i can't recall the name or how exactly it worked, i also think i was told to avoid it so that may be a reason why i forget. but if your running solo the just take a clear bottle full of brake fluid and attach a hose from the bleeder screw to the bottle. as long as the hose stays well under the brake fluid level when you pump the brakes air will come out and rise to the top but only brake fluid will be sucked back in when you get out to close the bleeder screw.
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