Master Cylinder replacement/upgrade
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Car: Red 91 RS Camaro
Engine: LO3 with Comp Cam
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4th gen rear
Master Cylinder replacement/upgrade
Anyone ever try to put on a master cylinder from a 4th gen ona 3rd gen? I've complared the 2 up close and don't really see anything that would stop it from working but maybe there is something internally that will make it not work right? Or maybe the hydraluic aspect of it just wouldn't work where it would be 2 strong or not strong enough or not with the correct booster size to work properly.
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Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Yes they will work. IIRC Roostmeyer has one installed. I will be installing one on my '70 RS project for an updated look.
Ed
Ed
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Car: American Iron Firebird
Engine: The little 305 that could.
Transmission: Richmond T-10
Axle/Gears: Floater 9" - 3.64 gears
Ed - Do you know if the fittings on the master are the same as on a 3rd gen? I'd be interested in the swap to have a smaller setup, I'm having problems with my caster/camber plates hitting the master right now trying to get enough camber.
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Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
I don't know personally but I'll assume they are...Roostmeyer posted a pic of his 4th gen master on the last page of the LS1 thread in FAQ...I'd check with him.
Ed
Ed
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Car: Red 91 RS Camaro
Engine: LO3 with Comp Cam
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4th gen rear
The fittings looked the same to me too but I'm gonna have to bend up some new tubing for it to all go together right.
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350, ZZ4 equivalent
Transmission: Pro-Built Road Race 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Dana 44
Does anyone know the bore of the 4'th gen master cylinder? Other then a possibly larger bore I wonder if there are any other benefits of upgrading.
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Car: 85 Tojan
Engine: ZZ4
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9", 3.50
The threads are the same but they don't line up the same as the original. You'll need new lines to connect the proportiong valve and MC. I just sent mine to classic tube to let them do it. They told me it would be about $30.
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Car: 91Z28, 94 Silverado, 99Z28
Engine: 350 TPI, 350 TBI, LS1
Transmission: 700R4, 4L60E, 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.42, 3.42, 3.42
the fittings on the 4th gen master i have are different then the fitting on my 91 master.. one of them is the same, but the (outer one) i believe is the one that is different... one is fine thread and one corse thread on the 4th gen .. and the 3rd gen at least on my 91 are the same threads... i have to fab up some new lines and fittings for it to work
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Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Originally posted by tojan19
The threads are the same but they don't line up the same as the original. You'll need new lines to connect the proportiong valve and MC. I just sent mine to classic tube to let them do it. They told me it would be about $30.
The threads are the same but they don't line up the same as the original. You'll need new lines to connect the proportiong valve and MC. I just sent mine to classic tube to let them do it. They told me it would be about $30.
Luke, I don't know what the bore is but for guys running LS1 brakes (esp front and rear) that's what I'd run for complete factory bias.
Ed
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Car: 85 Tojan
Engine: ZZ4
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9", 3.50
the threads are the same as the pre 89 1/2 fbodies. That's when they changed the thread. Apparently they switched back. I should have my stuff back from classic in a couple of days. I'll let you know how it turns out.
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Car: 86 T/A
Engine: HSR 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi
Do you expect better braking or is it just a project to see if you can do it? I'd love to upgrade mine since I think it has air trapped anyway- and my car is in 2 million pieces at the moment so its the perfect time to try this.
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Car: Red 91 RS Camaro
Engine: LO3 with Comp Cam
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4th gen rear
I think it may help the brakes work better, hopefully. Plus I have to blead the master cyclinder every couple of months to get the feel back so I'm gonna replace it with sometyhign that is better. And the cyclinder is smaller so i could get more adjustment out of an alignment.
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350, ZZ4 equivalent
Transmission: Pro-Built Road Race 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Dana 44
Originally posted by ebmiller88
Luke, I don't know what the bore is but for guys running LS1 brakes (esp front and rear) that's what I'd run for complete factory bias.
Luke, I don't know what the bore is but for guys running LS1 brakes (esp front and rear) that's what I'd run for complete factory bias.
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Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
OK, maybe you're right..I didn't figure the ABS into it. But wouldn't that only apply when the ABS was called into use and it would be "normal" at all other times and see the whole pressure throughout the line when the brakes are applied?
Ed
Ed
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Car: Red 91 RS Camaro
Engine: LO3 with Comp Cam
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4th gen rear
I don't know how a MC from an LS1 car would be on ours. We didn't have one at my job to compare side by side with the normal 3rd gen/early 4th gen MCs. I would think that the line pressure would be higher with a LS1 MC and the other 4th gen MC since it had better calipers and bigger brakes altogether. But I don't know how much of a role the booster has in how much pressure is made.
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