I was in a Custom Fabrication shop today and the guy was using the Lokar E-brake kit (LOK-EC80FHT). These cable are 8 ft long so length should not be a problem. I was thinking that this might be a good solution for people like me who has not found a solid solution since upgrading to LS1 rear brakes.
1. He removed the lokar portion thats X out in the picture.
2. Enlarge the Lokar bracket hole and install the orginal 3rd Gen adjustment screw with locking nuts on both sides, but removed the bracket.
3. Install the mounting bracket into the driveshaft tunnel.

* the only problem I forsee is mounting that bracket into the tunnel body and the lack of strength. However if you have access to a welder it will be an easy fix.

*comments welcome:

 

Here is the modification of cable:

 

How do you plan to connect the other end of the cable to the LS1 parking brake. The LS1 parking brake cables have a "loop" on them. I think the best bet is to find a way to connect the LS1 cables to the stock parking brake setup. You can use the LS1 cable attaching bracket to hold the cable so the rear will be no problem just connecting it to the parking brake lever is the problem.

 

Here is the other part that sell for $27.00 part# LOK-EC80CC
www.Summitracing.com

 

I am not sure if those would work or not, here is what the the end of the LS1 cable looks like.

 

The parts above are design to work with them cables. This kit is universal, but it has Corvette listed as a vehicle that will work with this kit. I seen all the Jerry-riggin going on with the setup and this car that I seen this kit on look so professional. IMO
Just remember there is always more than one way to skin a cat...

 

How about some fit up pics? I'd just like to see how it all goes together.

Ed

 

Yeah whut he sed!

 

The guy is modifying my headers, but when I go back next week I will take some pictures if the car is still there. I have a good feeling it can work and he did not do anything special. My only concern is mounting the braket in transmission tunnel will it eventually pull out or just weld it up there...

 

Other than mounting the bracket it appears to be a good idea for a bolt on hookup, just what the LS1 guys need. Bracket mounting is nothing a quick weld with a MIG can't fix. I'm considering the LS1 rear brakes for my '70 RS when the time comes and since it will have a 6sp I will need an e-brake. Thanks for posting this.

Ed

 

Could be very timely.....I'm gather parts for my swap! I also can't wait to see
what the set-up looks like.

 

I also saw in another thread a great idea. Someone cut off some of the jacket on the LS1 parking brake cable to allow a direct plug and play with the factory parking brake setup. Right now this is my plan to fix the problem when I do my rear LS1 swap this summer.

The lokar cables are great and all but they do cost quite a bit and would be more complicated then just trimming the jacket on the LS1 cable.

EDIT: Take a look at the info on the second page of this thread: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=249084

 

Its already be done. It worksd perfectly just bolted into the underneath side to the trans tunnel.

 

And the use of the Lokar clevis' for the rear ends of the cables

 

BarrisCustoms,
What bracket is that on the caliper side of the parking brake cable. The factory bracket attaches to the rear end next to the control arm. Or is that not LS1 rear brakes?

 

These are Wilwood LS1 conversion brakes for 4th gens on a 3rd gen.

 

The LS1 brakes don't have a bracket like the wilwoods have but the cables still may work on a LS1 setup.

 

First off i am aware that this is a dead thread. Second my set up is a 88 Formula with a rear out of a 2000 Camaro. So for those of you that stumbled across this post trying to fix you parking brake you will find that this is pretty much the only post covering the Lokar universal parking brake set up and that the supplied pictures are potato-y at best as of this post i just finished installing the kit listed above about an hour ago and here are a few things that i encountered. First between the two kits there is enough there to install everything. That being said to install this cleanly i did need access to a welder,dremel,some files, and a portaband(hacksaw will work just slower). The first part i had to modify was the clevis because the hole that comes with it is to short. its the right width but i ended up using a file to length the hole(didn't have a burr tool for the dremel). Other then that the clevis works well the next part is the sleeves that the steel cables fit into. Take your time to do multiple test fits this kit is a little pricey and you don't wand to cut them short. Recommend installing the tensioner first. that said will will need to drill the threads out of the bronze block i used a 5/16 drill bit as it was just large enough to remove the threads only. As for the tensioner itself i originally bolted it into the existing hole that was near the original tensioner but ended up welding it in place for stability. After you do all that i would recommend fitting and cutting the sleeves to the route path that you want. Here is where you will need the welder and dremel after you have everything routed slide the cables into place and mark them with a black marker and slide them back out and then WELD around that mark before you cut because if you dont the brading will pop and you'll have to cut lower. After you weld you mark cut down the wire and using a dremel(or Grinder) with a grinding bit clean up your weld so that the cable slides freely in place after that its really just a matter of installing everything and adjusting your tension. It ended up taking me from 1200 til about 1700 to do all of this. If you have any questions feel free to message me.