baer prop valve
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Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 294
Likes: 2
From: SoCal
Car: '85 Trans Am FAILBIRD
Engine: 350
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4th gen torsen 3.42
baer prop valve
I've got the baer pro kit up front and the track kit in back. I want to put in the 2000035 adjustable proportioning valve but I'm not sure about how it's installed. I believe it just goes in line with the rears below the factory valve. Can anyone verify that?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 294
Likes: 2
From: SoCal
Car: '85 Trans Am FAILBIRD
Engine: 350
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4th gen torsen 3.42
Well, I know the wilwood is meant to replace the stocker, but I think some are meant to just go inline to the rears, as Dean explained in this thread: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...le+brake+valve
You get to keep the redundancy for safety, and your brake fault light will still work.
Just wondering if anyone has done one like this - I believe the valve I have is meant to go inline, but not sure. I might have to get on the horn with Baer.
You get to keep the redundancy for safety, and your brake fault light will still work.
Just wondering if anyone has done one like this - I believe the valve I have is meant to go inline, but not sure. I might have to get on the horn with Baer.
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 684
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From: K.C. Mo.
Car: '89 GTA 9,000 MILES
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt
Unless you gut the rear side of the factory combo/proportioning valve you would be wasting your time putting in an adjustable valve. I follow the thinking of keeping the factory idiot light operational. You need 100% pressure going to the adjustable valve then start adjusting it down.
There is another thread on here about using a 4th gen MC that has a low fluid warning switch built into it that I am looking into so I could completely remove the factory valve and still keep the idiot light functional. Course then I would put in the adjustable valve in the rear line and a line loc in the front. SOUNDS like the best of all worlds if it works.
There is another thread on here about using a 4th gen MC that has a low fluid warning switch built into it that I am looking into so I could completely remove the factory valve and still keep the idiot light functional. Course then I would put in the adjustable valve in the rear line and a line loc in the front. SOUNDS like the best of all worlds if it works.
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