dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Ok so here is the deal so far...

The brakes are all stock, and I just put in new stainless steel brake lines. I then added line lock. Then I added speed bleaders. Just sitting there, nothing was leaking. Then I tried to blead the system and I couldn't get any fluid out of the bleeders, just about. I then tried to bench blead and get out the air in the master cylinder.... Not sure if I did this right.... How is it done?

Next if I did bench blead right, how is it that I am still not gettting anything out of the bleaders when I push the pedal, but when I drive it around it stops, just very poorly. I can't get the air out.

Also when I was cleading the master cylinder, I had it in my hand and the resivoir was full and capped, I then held it level and pushed the plunger in with a screwdriver. The odd thing is that 1 of the 2 ports, would just leak.... Constantly. This is wrong right.... I am feeling inclined to get a new booster and master, as well as a new stock prortioning valve.... Should I just go ahead and get all new stuff???? I know all new stuff with be the best bet, but do I really need to go all the way?

I allready had to get 2 new calipers, one rear and on front.


ps- over the winter I will be getting the C5 convertion, not that it matters.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

bump

navyCM

iTrader: (3)

Thats to vague. Exactly haow are you bleeding it when it all on the car?

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

ummm... pretty simply. Open the speed bleeder, pump the brakes, check bag that I had attached to bleeder.....

Thats it. Thats how the instructoins say to, and also what all logic points to doing.....

Not sure what else is vague. It just dones't makes sence why it won't bleed.

Joez88Camaro

I had speed bleeders, and they worked great, twice. Now I either just use my vacuum bleeder that attaches to shop air and get the job done very quickly and efficiently. I feel that the speed bleeders are so crappy now that I just put the old ones back one. Either get a mityvac for $40 or have someone help you.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

i bought these hoses from murray's auto parts store that have a one way check valve on the end. you put the hose on the bleeder then crack open the bleeder screw and the fluid dumps out into a bottle, oil pan, whatever. Sometimes I pump the pedal once or twice to get the fluid going but then gravity does the rest for you. The hoses were $6 each I believe with the valve.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I just can't get anything out. AT ALL. But the car does stop. I am lost.

How do you hook up the sir from a shop to blead the system? I have a compressor and would love to try that.

Wheel Spin

Haynes manual has a good procedure for "bench" bleeding the master cylinder on the car. I rebuilt my rear PBR calipers this summer, had them off the car for a week and didn't plug the lines. Gravity did it's thing and I got air in the MC. Note it takes TWO people to do this on the car, and at least a 15 second pause between each pedal push. If you don't have the Haynes, post up and I'll type it in here.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

I had one a while back, but I lent it to a friend. I am not sure, but I think I never got it back. I can't check now, as I am at work. I will look later tonight, but if you have the time I would really appreciate you posting how to do it here.

I have herd you can use a compressor, I would love to be able to do that. Just push fresh fluid through all the lines and be done with it. I am getting a new booster and a new MC this weekend. I will bench bleed that MC, 100% the right way, then double check any fittings that look "wet" and go from there. Maybe then just pumping it will work.

Oh yeah, I was not aware you are supposed to wait 15 sec between pumps, thanks.

Wheel Spin

OK, here is a scan from my Haynes manual, all credit to them. Paper-bound volume # 79019, Pontiac Firebird '82 thru '92. This worked well for me this summer in the situation explained above. I think the real key here is the 15 second wait - heck, I had a good summer evening, so I stretched it out to three minutes or more (beer break). It takes time for any air pockets to work their way up against fluid in a small diameter tube, can't rush it. I'm sure others can explain the benefits / requirements for the pause better than I. After I did this, I did a regular bleed until I had good fresh fluid at the rear. Get the MC bled first, then you can try your "speed" bleeders.


Good Luck...

You'll want to right-click and "save image as" on your local system so you can zoom in on it.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Thanks. I remember reading that now. I will try that out today or this weekend. Thanks for the help. I was unaware that the fluid SHOULD leak out the front port. I thought my MC was busted..... Maybe I shouldn't go to NAPA on Sat and pick up a remaned MC.... hmmmm.....

Joez88Camaro

aToolCrib.com : Brake Bleeding System [KDT3578] - $68.13

It's expensive, kinda, but it get the job done very fast and effectively if only 1 person is bleeding.