longer wheel studs for 1LE conversion?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 311
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From: South Louisiana
Car: 92 RS
Engine: Built 355
Transmission: Built 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73's w/ stock axles
longer wheel studs for 1LE conversion?
I just did my drum to disc rear conversion last week. I've read several tech articles on the subject and it basically went off without a hitch. Well, until I tried to put my stock 16" rims back on..... to my surprise, the studs only caught about 2 threads of the lug nut. I went to a longer stud (from a 97 camaro I believe) and they are still a little shorter than I like. It's no big deal, I'll just buy aftermarket ones but I was just wondering if any of you guys have run into this situation? I don't remember reading about it but I may have missed it.
Oh yeah, the car is a 92 RS with a stock drum rear and stock 16" rims. The kit came from big brake upgrade (this was before I knew of ebmiller and this board).
Oh yeah, the car is a 92 RS with a stock drum rear and stock 16" rims. The kit came from big brake upgrade (this was before I knew of ebmiller and this board).
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 103
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
No problems in that area for me; however, I did a disc to disc swap, should that make any difference.
By the way, systalis, since a member posts about the subject several times a week, or so it would seem, you might consider a tech article (pics would be a plus) on the subject.
JamesC
By the way, systalis, since a member posts about the subject several times a week, or so it would seem, you might consider a tech article (pics would be a plus) on the subject.
JamesC
Supreme Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,420
Likes: 5
From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Yeah, my lack of an up and running website hurts me sometimes but it's coming along with new stuff:
Coming Soon
Go to Napa and buy P/N 641-1581 studs. They're about $2 each and will work both front and rear and press right in. I ran into the same issue on the rearend I swapped into my Iroc.
Check my post in your other thread on brake pad and rotor bedding.
Ed
Coming Soon
Go to Napa and buy P/N 641-1581 studs. They're about $2 each and will work both front and rear and press right in. I ran into the same issue on the rearend I swapped into my Iroc.
Check my post in your other thread on brake pad and rotor bedding.
Ed
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
From: South Louisiana
Car: 92 RS
Engine: Built 355
Transmission: Built 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73's w/ stock axles
Thanks guys. I concidered doing a tech article, but I was a total automobile retard before I started my thirdgen project, so I'm not sure if I'm the one who should be writing it. But, none the less, I made it through with some help from a buddy.
Ed, thanks for both the replies and the part #. If it weren't for you guys I'ld be lost and discouraged with my project. I bought this car specifically to build the camaro that GM never built (but should have) ..... my dream car.
Right now, I'm running the stock drum prop valve. The wilwood adjustable comes in tomorrow and will be going in this weekend.......yet another adventure. But now that it stops. Onward to the engine.
Ed, thanks for both the replies and the part #. If it weren't for you guys I'ld be lost and discouraged with my project. I bought this car specifically to build the camaro that GM never built (but should have) ..... my dream car.
Right now, I'm running the stock drum prop valve. The wilwood adjustable comes in tomorrow and will be going in this weekend.......yet another adventure. But now that it stops. Onward to the engine.
Last edited by systalis; Oct 11, 2006 at 08:23 PM.
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