Can anyone possibly post some picts of how they ran their brake ducting hoses to cool the front rotors?
Much appreciated
-Andrew

 

Don't know if this will help or not:

http://www.skulte.com/index.php/cPath/25

JamesC

 

Thanks James, I have looked into that set up that Skulte has, but I am also after any pics that show how you guys have routed the tubing from the front of the car, through the inner wheel well to the spindle/kuckle.
-Andrew

 

This isn't routed as you'd like, but here's something to consider (at the bottom of the page):

http://www.paveglio.com/firebird/2001tamods.html

By the way, I seem to recall a company that used the air dam to mount ducts (much like the ones in the pics), then ran the hoses, but I can't find it. Maybe this one:

http://www.severnmotorsports.com/orderonline.htm

Jamesc

 

You are 'da man' James,
Those are great links - One thing I noticed thou - when comparing the ducts from severnmotorsport and paveglio, to those from Skulte - the ducting blows cold air at the rotor only - where with the Skulte set up, the air ducts run air INTO the rotor assembly - accornding to Skute this then avoids the issue of rotor warpaged....
Great info - any one else with some good pics - close ups too?

-Andrew

 

Idealy, you want the air to go in by the hub, so that the veins on the rotor distribute the air for even cooling throughout the rotor. When blown on the rotor face, only that particular side gets cooldown air.

 

Here's some pics of what not to do. Brake duct pics

They blew air, but they gave me a lot of problems. The current setup is a short 3" pipe with about a 45* cut that has a piece of 1" aluminum flat stock riveted to it and it bolts to the strut mount bolts. This is about the 3rd iteration and I'm tired of burning up expensive brake duct hose so I've started using 3" dryer hose from Home Depot until I get a design squared away.

I have a tube bumper so there's a lot more room behind the bumper. On the next go-around, I'm going to put them more towards the center and low as possible so they're easier to route. Coming from high on the outside of the car means they have to run back inside to clear the tire then back into the spindle duct.

Now that I have access to a welder, I'm going to weld something up for next year, but the riveted pieces definitely do the job and would be pretty easy to remove/install if you're switching to track pads anyway (assuming it's not a dedicated track car). Just an idea.