Hi,

I put my brakes back together after putting in new calipers up front old ones leaked from piston) I bought 4 speed bleeders and bled the crap out of the lines, replaced every ounce of fluid. When the car is OFF the pedal pumps up quickly and sits firm, doesnt go any lower than gas pedal, like it's supposed to.

When I start the car and hit the brakes, the pedal drops to the floor, the Brake Light comes on, and it feels like the brakes hardly even exist.


Anyone know why this may be?

Thanks,
Oliver

 

Brake light on should either be air in the lines or E-brake is applied. I believe there are only two places it can be tripped - at the E-brake and at the prop valve. Prop valve usually means you have air in the lines. Did you bench bleed the master cylinder? You may have gotten air in it somehow; possibly ran dry during bleeding.

 

Bench bled master cylinder, put in new wheel cylinders since they were leaky. bled lines. LIght went away!! yay. but the brakes still suck...

If i got 25-30 and put my foot down, theres like a delay and then it stars to slow down, but the wheels will NOT lock up, and the pedal is still low.

The pads are at about 50%, and I adjusted out the rears as far as i could.

maybe my speed bleeders are leaking air past the threads, even though they are supposed to prevent that with some B.S. thread coating.

 

the low pedal is most likely the rear drums and the delay is from the same problem heres how to adjust the back brakes there are little holes in the backing plat for the drums either take them off or if there already off us a flathead screwdriver and spin the star shaped screw out while the tire is being rotated and keep turning the screw untill you feel a lite drag on the wheel then that is it it is adjusted hope this takes care of your problem.

 

already did the adjustment on the rears, thanks tho.

i bled the lines again and made sure to do the fronts again too and its better now, i can atleast lock em up (dont know if its the fronts or backs locking up). still a slight delay and a HUFF sound when i hit the brakes. maybe the booster vac hose isnt right?

Is the check valve to the boost supposed to be a 1-way ? I'm assuming yes?

 

yes that is a one way valve check to make sure there is not any vac getting back out that might be what the huff noise is

 

thanks ill go get a new check valve...this one sucks so bad it might as well not even be there