Im swapping my 87 aluminum drum(2.73) diff for a 89 pbr (3.42) diff. all the lines and ebrake cables are there except for the rubber line with the T fitting. Will my current rubber line work for the new rearend?

 

Should. I did a similar swap and everything bolted right in place. I used the stock rubber line with T fitting and it went right on.

 

Remember that you'll need to swap the proportioning valve for best braking performance. You'll also need to swap the drive and driven gears if you want the speedo to read correctly.

JamesC

 

I've been reading about the poor performing rear brakes (using the Delco Moraine calipers) and possible solutions.
Most of the info is in regards to the prop valve and suitable replacements or modifications.
The application on my current ride is the same as the above poster. I garnered a master cylinder and proportioning/combination valve from a donor disc brake car when I swapped in a disc brake rearend. The rear pads still appear new after tens of thousands of miles of use.
What is the definitive word on which prop valve to use?

 

Where PBR's are concerned, GM offered valves (with different part numbers) for discs and drums, to provide the best performance for both those braking platforms, I'd guess--as cheap as GM is, logic says that the company wouldn't produce two valves when one was sufficient. For what it's worth, Ed Miller, Dan Burke, and AndyZ28, all advocate the 1LE valve.

JamesC

 

Would that apply also to the iron Delco Moraine calipers ( that I understand are of a poor design to begin with )?

 

Yes, different part numbers for the two applications. BTW, personally, I think Delco-Moraines get a bad rap on the board. I ran them for a number of years without issue. I swapped to PBR's, not out of necessity, but because I'm a foolish hobbyist who enjoys spending hard-earned loot and getting his hands dirty.

JamesC

 

Thanks for that Mr. C.
I have my current drive (which will soon be relagated to winter beater status) that has the D/M calipers. Those I'll keep however getting them to actually work would be nice.
My current project will have the PBR's (and a Dana 44). I'm still in the process of aquiring the various bits and pieces.
As for the foolish hobbyist comment, I concur. I understand now why women like to go shopping for shoes! ( OK. Not all women.)

 

You may find the following link interesting (Note Defect Involved):

http://members.shaw.ca/crussel/recalls/86c28/86c28.html

JamesC

 

More parts to buy!
Thanks again.

 

Ive read the drum brake and aluminum caliper(PBR) prop valve is so close there is no need to change. The iron calipers are a different story in relation to the fluid needed but from what I understand there is no need for the added hassle of a prop. valve swap. Am I wrong?

 

If you have a link to the above, I'd be interested to read it.

My opinion all along is why bother to upgrade to larger brakes if you don't maximize them with the proper valve. Is "close" or "ok" good enough? For me, because I'm **** in such matters, the answer is no. BTW, Ed Miller includes a disc valve in his PBR kit:

http://www.flynbye.com/catalog/i10.html

JamesC

 

I went the other extreme when i swapped from drums to PBRs and just bit the bullet and put an adjustable prop in. It is a bit of a pain to do but well worth the end result.

 

I looked for the thread I was speaking of, found many where a member said it worked but with no actual info, where a member measured pad wear after the swap and ended up with something like 65% wear on front and 35% wear on the rear which was measured after a long period of time using the OE drum prop.valve but I couldnt find it. Eitherway I do agree doing a job halfa## is never a good Idea, I may as well switch since the master is being replaced anyway.